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  #11  
Old 01-10-2013, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoaelite View Post
Although your logic is correct your sample size is far to small to eliminate bias. This is the internet and everyone's entitled to their opinion, let's just be diligent in our homework before posting information that might not be true.

Another thing you need to consider is that there is ONE ocean, "Aussie" drives the price up just as fast as "Japanese Deep water" does. Are these actually collected from Aussieland and NOWHERE else in the ocean? Are these even from Australia? Probably not but if it jacks the price up and ensures demand people will say anything.
Can't agree more. Terms like "aussie", "deep water" and not to forget "rare" always drive up prices like crazy! I should have written "as far as I have been told" at the end of the sentence (I don't know why I always miss this line! maaaaann).
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  #12  
Old 01-10-2013, 01:54 PM
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My parameters are the following:
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Calcium 480
Phosphates 0
pH 8.1-8.2 (i use seachem reef buffer)
KH 11 (i have hard water)
Temp 23 celcius

I'm all out of ideas and tests.
Ren
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33G DT - 10G sump - Eshopps PSK-100H - Eheim Compact+ 3000 - CPR CS50 overflow - 2x Hydor 750 (not used) - 1x Vortech MP10ESw - Radion LED - 7x Hermit Crabs - 2x Peppermint Shrimps - 3x Astrea - 4-5x Nassarius (they spawned) - Zoas - Mushrooms - 37lbs of live rock - 56lbs of base rock
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  #13  
Old 01-10-2013, 02:05 PM
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couple things:

blasting your zoa with mysis isnt going to make it open

although zoas sure can stay closed for long periods of time a healthy zoa should open within a half day of being in a new tank.

i doubt its nudis

check for zoa pox

i notice you have a mp10 in a 33g, what setting and percent are you running it at?


how new is this tank?


your temp is way to low which is a big contributing factor with zoos

alk is also way to high for zoos



those are your two biggest red alerts going off for me.
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  #14  
Old 01-10-2013, 02:09 PM
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I'll up the temperature (easy enough) and how to i bring down my alkalinity?

I'll.find pictures of zoa pox, but so far i see nothing strange on the zoa.

My MP10 is on Ecosmart mode and running at about 75%.

Ren
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2013, 02:12 PM
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No zoa pox. I checked.
Ren
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33G DT - 10G sump - Eshopps PSK-100H - Eheim Compact+ 3000 - CPR CS50 overflow - 2x Hydor 750 (not used) - 1x Vortech MP10ESw - Radion LED - 7x Hermit Crabs - 2x Peppermint Shrimps - 3x Astrea - 4-5x Nassarius (they spawned) - Zoas - Mushrooms - 37lbs of live rock - 56lbs of base rock
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  #16  
Old 01-10-2013, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RenHoek104 View Post
I'll up the temperature (easy enough) and how to i bring down my alkalinity?

I'll.find pictures of zoa pox, but so far i see nothing strange on the zoa.

My MP10 is on Ecosmart mode and running at about 75%.

Ren

would probably also turn down your vortech , mines running same mode but at 50%

to lower your alk do a water change with a salt with a lower alk in it , what type of salt are you using?

zoa pox are small yellow spots inside the stalk of the zoa , only a dip im furan2 will fix that if its the case.


lighting??
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:18 PM
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I'll tone the pump down.
I have a Radion which reaches 40% at noon then goes down to 35% at 2pm.
I have Red Sea Salt and Instant Ocean Reef.
Ren
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  #18  
Old 01-10-2013, 02:21 PM
reefwars reefwars is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RenHoek104 View Post
I'll tone the pump down.
I have a Radion which reaches 40% at noon then goes down to 35% at 2pm.
I have Red Sea Salt and Instant Ocean Reef.
Ren

ok your radion is fine , although i dont know if you reach proper spectrum or not but intensity wise is not the issue.

switch to the instant ocean to lower your alk

do you have any idea of its previous history like when was it fragged, what type of tank it came from?

what type of zoa it is by chance?

have you dipped the frag?
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:25 PM
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The spectrum looks ok, but then again how do i know. I tried to use as many presets as possible.

No idea on the history. I bought it at a lfs and it was beautiful. It's a neon green and grayish green center.

I've dipped it.in the tech i to no avail.

Ren
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  #20  
Old 01-10-2013, 02:37 PM
reefwars reefwars is offline
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hummm ok after reading your other thread now im worried that your adding too many thingsto your tank that you cant test for.....




less is more.

you do not need a bunch of supplements to make a tank thrieve, zoas in particular are hard to satisfy with chemicals they do fine with just good water quality, good flow and strong lighting.

zoas are quite simple they need a proper temp,alk,salinity,lights and flow.....thats about the major things everything else is just a matter of opinion to make your zoas grow better or get better color.while they can do well if one or two of these things are out a bit for a short period of time they wont do well if this is a permanant problem.

no need to feed, dose , dip or talk dirty to them....they get by very well on the basics.

while vit c dosing is ok i wouldnt do it in a new tank like yours untill the tank is stable for over a year.
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