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  #11  
Old 05-22-2009, 05:10 AM
jassz jassz is offline
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Well, this has been a day of enlightenment.

I did put some of the media wool (or whatever it's called) in the sump where the overflow return is, partly for filtration and partly to stop the spray that was going everywhere. I didnt' realize it should be changed so frequently. It got icky looking on the underside, so I turned it over for a couple of days, and today I threw it out and replaced it. It was a week old.

I don't know how many pounds of rocks I have. If you saw a picture could you guess? It's quite a bit... I'd guess 200+ but I don't really know. It's only just starting to turn live though, and some of it is still base rock. Do you still think I dont' need a filter? I have crushed coral, not sand. If I remove the filter, will the water stay as clear? (Which, incidently, isn't so clear tonight. I really must get to that filter maintenance tomorrow).

Which brings me to my next question... HOW do you do maintenance on a Fluval 404 cannister filter? It didn't come with instructions as I bought it used, but I figured I would get the instructions when I bought replacment media. But, if I'm NOT buying replacement media because that's a bad idea, hwo exactly do I get inside this thing? I tried to find instructions on the internet, but no luck. Pictures, but no instructions. Do have have to clamp the lines to/from, or is there some sort of shut off mechanism? Would it be better to remove the lines from the tank so it doesn't flood back?

mike mentioned phosphate removal... I bought a square of filter pad that is supposed to remove phosphate. I got it mainly for another tank but never used it. Should I be using it here? I am using treated tap water, not RO water.

As far a flow, I have three sources. There are some pictures of the set up in this thread. http://canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=52733

Last edited by jassz; 05-22-2009 at 01:22 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-22-2009, 05:16 AM
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Hmm hadn't considered this. Is there livestock in the tank of any kind (specially fish)?
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  #13  
Old 05-22-2009, 05:20 AM
jassz jassz is offline
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I have a Picasso Trigger, a white tailed trigger, a lion fish, a valentini puffer, a stars and stripes puffer and a wolf eel. All of a substantial size. No coral, just the rocks.
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  #14  
Old 05-22-2009, 05:28 AM
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Alright, knowing now that your rock is not completely live (and that this is a new tank), I wouldn`t remove the bio media from the canister. These sort of things normally have a locking mechanism that holds them closed, or a set of latches of some type. This would be the way to open it, I would unplug the unit, pull the lines from the display tank (though there may be some sort of union on the lines that allows you to 'unplug' them from the unit), and then attempt to open it. Once you get it open, rinse the bio media in tank water (swish real good to get the gunk off them), scrub the filter housing and pump parts in clean water (no cleaners of any type), and reassemble. You may have to pour some water down one of the tubes to prime the pump, I have little experience with these (I'm a HOB sort of guy), but that's really all there is too it. Make sure you don't wash the bio media in anything but tank water, as anything else will kill the bacteria. When you're done washing the media, put it in your sump to keep it wet and retain your bacteria until you're finished cleaning the canister.

In a couple months, you will be able to remove the canister completely, if you want... though I couldn't really tell through the pictures, it seems like you have enough rock and flow (I'm sure I saw a Koralia in there somewhere) to do the job.

The phosphate removal media seems to drop the phosphate over the first couple days to undetectable levels, and then it seems to come back in some people's experience. If you are interested in trying, a macroalgae filled 'fuge harvested regularly would probably do more for your phosphate and nitrate levels than anything, specially if you're using tap water. If not, this is still better than nothing, but you may be battling phosphate from the tap water (and nitrate too) rather than the inhabitants of the aquarium.

Oh yeah, and continue changing that 'media wool' stuff every day or two, and did you get the problem with your skimmer overflowing fixed?
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Last edited by BlueAbyss; 05-22-2009 at 05:47 AM.
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  #15  
Old 05-22-2009, 01:32 PM
jassz jassz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueAbyss View Post
it seems like you have enough rock and flow (I'm sure I saw a Koralia in there somewhere) to do the job.
Is that the thing that looks like a thermos? Blue and black?

I do have some green plant looking thing in the sump that is supposed to remove nitrates. Would that be the macro algae? I can get a picture.

Yes and no on the skimmer. I can have the height set just right, but if I turn it off then on, or add another gallon because the level in the sump has dropped, the level is not right any more and needs to be adjusted. But, since the lid on the sump was modified, that is a bit easier to do. It works great when it's set right! It's like emptying a potty toilet- boy does it stink! It has to be a good thing that all that 'crap' is out of the water.
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2009, 05:42 PM
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Koralia is a brand of powerhead. From what I can figure, when you said you had 3 sources of flow, you meant the powerhead, the return pump (from the sump), and the canister filter.

It would be great if you could get a picture of the algae in sump! It's likely a macroalgae called Chaetomorpha that likes a lot of flow (why a lot of people grow it in the sump), and grows free floating, very good for nutrient export... BUT, in my opinion a fuge needs to be rather larger than many people have made them to be efficient. Would it be possible to get sort of a full tank shot of your sump area?

I suspect that by moving your skimmer to another area in the sump you could get it into an area that has a constant level, so that you could dial in the skimmer and not have to worry about it too much... it sounds like to have to fiddle with it regularly to get it to skim properly?

It almost sounds like you need an automatic top off device to keep your water level constant.
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  #17  
Old 05-22-2009, 07:55 PM
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So I just finished my maintenance on the tank and cannister... oy, it didn't go well.

I vaccumed the gravel first and removed about 10 gallons or so in the process. Then I got thinking about that cowrie snail that hasn't moved in a week. Someone suggested he was eaten, but I started to wonder if he might just be rotting in the shell so I had a look. Rotting is right! Before I could do anything about it, his decaying remains fell all over the tank. I think the triggers even ate some of it, I hope they don't get sick. Perhaps that was the source of my nitrate/nitrite? It can't be healthy for the water.

Anyway, on with the Fluval. I figured out how to get it disconnected with only minor flooding. I cleaned the bioballs in the water I had just removed from the tank, replaced the foam filter with the phosphate removing kind I had, scrubbed the whole thing and attempted to put it all back together. The prev. owners had an inline heater attached to the out line. Actually, there were 2 heaters but they weren't able to install the second one because the line was too short. So, I went to all this work to get both heater aligned, and fastened up against the wall so they weren't hanging down and unsightly, only to find out that I couldn't get the replacement tubing I had bought attached to the Fluval again. The old tubing was the same diameter, but it wasn't reinforced (like my new stuff) so I guess they were able to stretch it enough. But I didn't want to use it again as it was quite disgusting looking (and too short for both heaters). In the end I just reattached the Fluval lines as they were meant to be installed, sans heaters. There is a heater in the sump, but there's probably a reason why they had more than one. But, it's quite warm now (ambient temp), maybe it will be enough. I hope so, at least until I can get a coupler or something. It's certainly not maintenance I would want to do weekly!

My biggest grief was to get the damn thing to stop seeping! It's STILL seeping in fact. I finally wrapped a towel around it and gave up. It has taken me hours to do all this. One of my biggest impediments is that we are renovating, and don't have a sink downstairs, so I am up and down the stairs a million times, scrubbing parts, hauling water one gallon at a time. I need a nap.

I guess I have four sources of flow. The powerhead, the sump, the cannister filter, and this other thermos looking thing that shoots out water. Does the overflow count?

I will have to move that algae in to where the overflow return is then, if it likes flow. I thought it was getting beat up in there and moved it to a different part of the sump.

I don't think I could move the skimmer to another area. And honestly I can't figure out why the water level isn't constant, as it looks like it should be. But I will get a picture for you. Right after my nap.
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2009, 08:33 PM
jassz jassz is offline
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If you can't tell what's what from the pics I can try to post a short video.

Last edited by jassz; 07-16-2009 at 03:10 AM.
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  #19  
Old 05-22-2009, 09:02 PM
jassz jassz is offline
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Oh, and here is a shot of that algae (if that's what it is).

Last edited by jassz; 07-16-2009 at 03:10 AM.
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  #20  
Old 05-22-2009, 09:40 PM
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Alright, well you're on your way! The nitrite and stuff should sort itself out.

I don't see a problem with your sump, so I can't really say why your skimmer acts wierd. Do you give the collection cup and stuff a chance to get a little dirty? They skim better once they've been running for a while...

Well, the algae is grape caulerpa. Excellent for export, I would keep a light on over it 24/7 and harvest regularly. When you harvest, remove whole chunks. As far as the thermos thing, I can't really say... probably an internal power filter of some sort. Remove any media that is in it, and keep it clean like the canister filter.

Hmm, perhaps you should get another heater for the tank? Most people recommend around 3-5 watts per gallon, depending on how cold the room is that the tank is in.
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