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  #41  
Old 11-21-2006, 12:01 AM
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I bet it runs close to 10k-11k
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  #42  
Old 11-21-2006, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subdued View Post
I bet it runs close to 10k-11k
I would say double that. Maybe even more.
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  #43  
Old 11-21-2006, 05:08 AM
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If I had to guess I would say at least 15K to get you going and then up to 5 more perfecting it. Can't wait to see it all set up.
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  #44  
Old 11-21-2006, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subdued View Post
I bet it runs close to 10k-11k
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Originally Posted by Joe Reefer View Post
I would say double that. Maybe even more.
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Originally Posted by Jaws View Post
If I had to guess I would say at least 15K to get you going and then up to 5 more perfecting it. Can't wait to see it all set up.
Ok...so we're done with that one.
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  #45  
Old 11-21-2006, 05:40 AM
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I have a couple questions ...

How is the framing for the top part attached to the ceiling? Just with screws, or ... ?

What are the white tubs you're using for the sump and whatnot, and where can you get those?

Thanks!

Can't wait to see the next round of pics! Also I hope you don't mind but I really, really dig that bar idea and am seriously comtemplating something similar for my 280g, I'm inspired. If not a bar, at least a place to plant one's elbows when staring into the tank.
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  #46  
Old 11-21-2006, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Delphinus View Post
Also I hope you don't mind but I really, really dig that bar idea and am seriously comtemplating something similar for my 280g, I'm inspired. If not a bar, at least a place to plant one's elbows when staring into the tank.

I think elbow means drink right?
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  #47  
Old 11-21-2006, 04:23 PM
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Default Open top PE tanks.

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Originally Posted by Delphinus View Post
I have a couple questions ...

How is the framing for the top part attached to the ceiling? Just with screws, or ... ?

What are the white tubs you're using for the sump and whatnot, and where can you get those?
The framing that is above the tank is "1 by 1". It provides the support for the plywood doors that aren't yet installed. It is actually NOT connected to the ceiling at all. It has three sides which are bolted together. The two sides are then bolted to the walls. The frame rests on the tank. There is some sill foam between the frame and the tank to provide some water seal.

The white tubs are polyethelene, roto-moulded tanks. They were purchased from Plastic-Mart.com. You can get them in almost any shape or size. I needed 50 gal and 100 gal cylinders, and 60 gal and 120 gal open top rectangles. The challenge is to find ONE place that has ALL the sizes that you need so you aren't paying multiple shipping charges. They were manufactured and shipped by Ronco Plastic in California.

They are a lot easier to work with than acrylic for hole drilling...although acrylic would look better. Since I needed the cylindrical tanks, it was efficient to get the sumps as well.

Last edited by muck; 11-21-2006 at 04:27 PM.
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  #48  
Old 11-21-2006, 04:47 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'm looking at your photos and it's helping me plan out the "corner viewing" aspect I was hoping to acheive with my 280g as well. I wasn't sure if I was going to be supporting the wall framing to the ceiling above, or what. I might need to consult a builder, I'm not sure what's kosher for suspending things on the floor above. I like how you've solved that with the wall flush to the right-hand side tank wall.

A couple more questions.. what's your floor, is it concrete? If so how is the stand attached to the floor at the bottom?

To make the stand open at the back (where the sump is sitting) without a bottom cross bar member (or whatever it's called) did you have to put any diagonal bracing, or additional posts under the middle of the tank or anything like that?

Thanks once again for the info. Very helpful!!
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  #49  
Old 11-21-2006, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Delphinus View Post
A couple more questions.. what's your floor, is it concrete? If so how is the stand attached to the floor at the bottom?

To make the stand open at the back (where the sump is sitting) without a bottom cross bar member (or whatever it's called) did you have to put any diagonal bracing, or additional posts under the middle of the tank or anything like that?

Thanks once again for the info. Very helpful!!
The tank is in my basement, directly on top of the concrete foundation. I don't know how thick the concrete is...but I'm sure it is enough. I glued lino directly to the concrete, then glued the stand and walls to the floor using construction adhesive.

The stand has 2x6's joists spanning the 4 foot width. These joists run every foot. The vertical supports are only 2x4's. Where I was not able to have a vertical support every foot (like where it spans the sumps), I doubled the 2x4 on either side. There are no centre posts, or diagonal braces...the stand is completely open underneath.

It's basically the same way that you would build a small house. You build 2x4 wall sections...then you build a floor out of 2x6's on edge and screw it onto the wall sections.

That construction is not stable until you screw plywood to the faces. Once the 3/4" plywood was screwed to the front, left, right and top sides it is rock solid. It would be MUCH less stable if I had wanted doors on the front and side.

Maybe I'll post some detail shots of the stand for you.
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  #50  
Old 11-21-2006, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Reefer View Post
I would say double that. Maybe even more.
i was just going based on oregonreef.com what he suggested his setup costs, though it is in american
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