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  #11  
Old 04-07-2010, 11:23 PM
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I was thinking of putting a Tunze 6205 by the herbie
And I believe the bottom is tempered

Another idea maybe is running the pipe inside the tank as it comes over by the herbie and paint it black. Then have a bunch of little opening shooting down to the end of the tank. So with a bunch of openings maybe I dont need a big width on the pipe so its less noticeable?

Or even better yet
Could I return under the overflow box and have a tunze 6205 suck in most of the return and push it down the length of the aquarium?

Would that create enough flow? Or would i need two 6205s or two 6105s


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Originally Posted by nazerine View Post
I see now, you're going with a peninsula tank!

Do you know if the bottom of your tank is tempered glass? If not, you could drill towards a corner and have a return pipe 'standing', with a 90 at the water surface, then some lock line. the 90 would need a small hole drilled in it for a syphon break.

Depending on the vision of your tank, this may or may not work.

If it was me, I would have the return where the overflow box is. Using your sump return to create flow in your tank at both ends isn't the most effective. If you're going to have a canopy, put a propeller pump of some kind on the far end
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  #12  
Old 04-07-2010, 11:49 PM
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Here is example of my other idea
I think I actually like this one. But im sure someone will find a flaw. I could have it higher up the overflow box too.
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  #13  
Old 04-08-2010, 12:42 AM
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clear will be opaque in 24 minutes.

Last edited by golf nut; 04-08-2010 at 12:48 AM.
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  #14  
Old 04-08-2010, 01:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milad View Post
Here is example of my other idea
I think I actually like this one. But im sure someone will find a flaw. I could have it higher up the overflow box too.
This idea has an serious reverse siphon potential. You would be 100% dependent on somehow breaking the reverse siphon with a check valve or some other method....otherwise you would drain your tank into the sump during a power failure.
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400 gal reef. Established April, 2007. 3 Sequence Dart, RM12-4 skimmer, 2 x OM4Ways, Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown (pair), Blonde Naso Tang, Vlamingi Tang, Foxface Rabbit, Unicorn Tang, 2 Pakistani Butterflies and a few coral gobies

My Tank: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436
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  #15  
Old 04-08-2010, 02:27 AM
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Could I just not have a couple holes in the pipe at the top of the tank to break the siphon? or is it because it goes so far down that the holes wont work.
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  #16  
Old 04-08-2010, 02:31 AM
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What will stop water from spraying out the holes when the pump is on or am I miss understanding something?
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  #17  
Old 04-08-2010, 02:46 AM
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when the pump is on, the holes are jsut under the water, when the pump is off the holes will be above the water
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  #18  
Old 04-08-2010, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milad View Post
Could I just not have a couple holes in the pipe at the top of the tank to break the siphon? or is it because it goes so far down that the holes wont work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milad View Post
when the pump is on, the holes are jsut under the water, when the pump is off the holes will be above the water

Sure..that will work. As will a check valve. Put both in place. I'm just saying that I would not want to be THAT dependent on those working...because if they fail during a power outage you are talking about complete death of the tank and flood damage to your house.

The holes WILL plug up. You'll need to keep those cleaned out all the time.

Check valves get stuck open. Especially if they don't get exercised much.

My returns go over the top edge of the aquarium and exit only 2" below water line. Even if my check valve fails, there is no way I can siphon more than 2" of water from the tank. Design to be fail proof. You'll sleep better.
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My Tank: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436
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  #19  
Old 04-08-2010, 06:02 AM
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I would like to second the check-valve suckage thing... although I would like to say that please dont even design a system that uses or relies on one. IMO, and in my experience... they totally suck. MOST check valves (have seen many diff brands in action) fail. Stuff either gums up in them or the 'flap' if its rubberized 'gives out' or gets deformed into the 'open' shape.

Some are around that almost surely will not fail, but for me, thats not good enough. Why not simply design a system that doesn't worry about one, and simply takes care of itself hassle free, 100% guarenteed not to leak, and saves you the money of buying one. Just my opinion. (You can certainly include one if you want, but in a well-designed system, it wont be necessary).
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  #20  
Old 04-08-2010, 06:15 AM
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You could terminate it an inch or 2 below where your return goes inside your overflow. Just point the nozzle slightly downwards, That could alleviate the issue of the same water coming from the sump immediately going back into the sump.
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