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  #11  
Old 10-01-2015, 03:35 PM
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I think protruding it out is a mistake, it would look much better flush with the wall with a nice frame around the tank and fit better with a modern contemporary design if that is what you are going for. I'd also make use of the all awkward space and just extend the tank all the way back to the shower wall making it around 40" deep (maybe ~36" to leave room for an external overflow). Full access from the front and partial from the back is really all you'll need. You'll want to keep equipment away from that bedroom wall, not just for noise but any leaks or spills will ruin that carpet in a hurry. Putting equipment on that back bathroom wall would allow clean plumbing to wrap around the corner and gives you a straight shot to the existing floor drain.
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  #12  
Old 10-01-2015, 03:43 PM
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Also consider a viewable panel in the bathroom, using a boat window or something


Last edited by sphelps; 10-01-2015 at 03:46 PM.
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  #13  
Old 10-01-2015, 04:04 PM
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Well I must admit I do have some concerns with the protruding concept

1. How to finish off the sides of the wall where the glass meets the wall
2. Building front access panels maybe more difficult
3. Clutters the room by not having a straight path from stairs to the theater


Actually in general I am not too sure how to make an access panel with that sort of masonry work on it. I spoke with the masons working on the exterior of my house, and they said making a joint within the stone work was a bad idea, and would look bad. So I guess I could make one 8 foot long 42" tall panel above the tank that hods all that stone, but I think it would weigh a ton, and not too sure how I could attach it to a frame, I don't think magnets would cut it.


Yes, this i a very modern looking house, it's off topic but I do have the rest of the house modeled, as its a custom build as well.

I do agree a "L" shaped tank would best utilize the space, but I think it would be front only viewing, despite your port hole idea! LOL I wonder if an "L" shaped tank would have issues with getting proper flow.



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Originally Posted by sphelps View Post
I think protruding it out is a mistake, it would look much better flush with the wall with a nice frame around the tank and fit better with a modern contemporary design if that is what you are going for. I'd also make use of the all awkward space and just extend the tank all the way back to the shower wall making it around 40" deep (maybe ~36" to leave room for an external overflow). Full access from the front and partial from the back is really all you'll need. You'll want to keep equipment away from that bedroom wall, not just for noise but any leaks or spills will ruin that carpet in a hurry. Putting equipment on that back bathroom wall would allow clean plumbing to wrap around the corner and gives you a straight shot to the existing floor drain.
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  #14  
Old 10-01-2015, 04:43 PM
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I don't think Steve meant an L-shaped tank, I think he meant a rectangular tank that goes the full width from the front wall to the shower, and being about 40" wide. That's a cool idea too.

I was assuming no front access. Although front access is handy, I don't think it looks as good. I haven't seen a modern looking access - except maybe what "lastlight" did with his 404.

EDIT: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...ht=404&page=30

I think it would look better if the hinges were hidden, and the gaps had a lip behind them so you couldn't see light shining through.
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Last edited by Myka; 10-01-2015 at 04:49 PM.
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  #15  
Old 10-01-2015, 05:47 PM
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Yeah no L, just rectangular 90x40 or whatever that space works out to. A port in the bathroom would be sweet so don't right that off until you really think about it.

I've seen two protruding tanks in person before and both looked awkward, the small side view offers nothing and exposes tank seams which in reality are always ugly. Both owners of these two tanks regretted not keeping the tank flush with the wall. Plus for modern you need clean lines which will be difficult to achieve with a tank sticking out like that. Sort of gives the impression you had a tank and built the house around it rather than the other way around. Also for what it's worth a masonry feature like that isn't very modern but if it is something you want and are concerned about weight you can purchases foam or faux panels that look identical to real stone.
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  #16  
Old 10-01-2015, 05:52 PM
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For front access a panel system is very easy to build and also quite modern

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  #17  
Old 10-01-2015, 08:34 PM
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I think stone can work with a modern look, but maybe not that stone. That particular stone (as per the model) is going on our exterior. Also I was planning on using that exterior stone for some columns in the theater/Wetbar. Our two story fireplace and feature has this stone:

But I am not sure if they have any nice accent pieces to use to form a ledge, but it could work?

Anyways I am still not sure about going full depth as it forces me to have an overflow on the bedroom side, and power heads will all have to go on the bedroom side as well also it means for sure I need front access.

This depth is as depicted is 40". If I wanted to maintain some rear access I think would need at least 18" behind the tank, shrinking the tank to a depth of 22", which is not ideal. I'm still not sure how to best use this space, I think the shower can get much smaller.


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  #18  
Old 10-01-2015, 10:33 PM
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Are the bathroom drains already in place and has the basement slab been poured? Also, could you show a floor plan of the entire basement?
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  #19  
Old 10-01-2015, 10:47 PM
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Yeah slab is poured and drains are in place, no framing yet. The builder will do the framing for me, but that's all, after that it's all me! I see lots of work ahead of me!

Here is the proposed layout.


Last edited by Seth81; 10-01-2015 at 10:48 PM. Reason: Fixed pic
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  #20  
Old 10-02-2015, 01:59 AM
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You can move the shower, the drain doesn't have to be centered, it can offset to one side but the framing would be a little weird unless you widened the whole bathroom. Either way that would allow for the extra space needed. Also busting up concrete and moving drains is actually very easy just saying.

But if it was me I'd probably just make the tank 36" or even 30" deep to allow for the overflow, some plumbing and whatever else. Access from front is really for the best anyway. Every once in a while you'll need to scrap and clean near the seams of the glass, would be a nightmare from the back on that size of tank. Some stuff in this hobby is hard enough, doing it backwards doesn't seem like the smartest way to enjoy it.
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