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Old 02-04-2014, 09:00 PM
jason604 jason604 is offline
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Default Culturing brine shrimp in a reef tank?

So I'm trying to hatch and keep brine shrimps alive in my tank because I recently bought a green mandarin. I just hatch them in a water bottle with an air pump floating in my sump. So my question is can I just siphon the baby brine into my chaeto in the sump and some into my DT and that would be good enough so my mandarin can graze on them slowly throughout the week till I repeat the process or will they not survive like that? I heard about gutting them. I just put some reef roid into their hatching bottle, is that good enough?
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:38 AM
rayjay rayjay is offline
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With reef tank flow rates, the brine shrimp nauplii cannot make their way around the tank and will merely get sucked up by any mechanical filtration so it would be case of feeding some to the tank with shutting off return pump and power heads until feeding has been done.
Any enrichment you use has to be appropriately sized so Reef Roids would be too large for nauplii and they don't have a proper nutrient profile to be an enrichment. The mandarin would probably eat the Reef Roids even though they are meant to feed corals I believe.
Also, you need to consider sterilizing the cysts before hatching, or use decapped cysts to lessen the chances of adding nasty bacteria to your tank as brine shrimp cysts are known to be a problem this way.
When brine shrimp hatch out, they have no active digestive system and it will take about a day for them to get to the second instar stage where they can feed.
For proper enrichment it would take 2 twelve hour stages with new water and enrichment for each stage. First stage basically gut loads them, and second stage the enrichment becomes assimilated into their flesh making nutrition much better.
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:51 AM
jason604 jason604 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayjay View Post
With reef tank flow rates, the brine shrimp nauplii cannot make their way around the tank and will merely get sucked up by any mechanical filtration so it would be case of feeding some to the tank with shutting off return pump and power heads until feeding has been done.
Any enrichment you use has to be appropriately sized so Reef Roids would be too large for nauplii and they don't have a proper nutrient profile to be an enrichment. The mandarin would probably eat the Reef Roids even though they are meant to feed corals I believe.
Also, you need to consider sterilizing the cysts before hatching, or use decapped cysts to lessen the chances of adding nasty bacteria to your tank as brine shrimp cysts are known to be a problem this way.
When brine shrimp hatch out, they have no active digestive system and it will take about a day for them to get to the second instar stage where they can feed.
For proper enrichment it would take 2 twelve hour stages with new water and enrichment for each stage. First stage basically gut loads them, and second stage the enrichment becomes assimilated into their flesh making nutrition much better.
What's a good method of sterilizing the eggs? Can I just run them under the tap first? For enriching should I just put in phyto then filter out the brine out after 12 hr and put them in a new bottle of salt water then what I do after that. I already squirted 2 turkey blasters of "dirty baby brine" to my chaeto already -.-
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:42 PM
rayjay rayjay is offline
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You have to hydrate the cysts first.
I add the cysts to a litre of tap water and let sit for 30 minutes. This allows them to soak up enough water to make the next stage go better.
Then I add an open ended air line to keep the cysts in motion for an hour.
At the end of the hour, I add about 125ml of bleach and keep aeration going for about 4 minutes.
At the end of 4 minutes, rinse the cysts for about 3 minutes under the cold water tap to remove all traces of bleach.
This takes care of nasties that may be harbouring in the cysts.
Now take the cysts and add them to the salt water for hatching.
After hatching I siphon them off, rinse, and put in new salt water for a grow out period of a day. They CANNOT feed until they grow to the second Instar stage where they have a developed digestive tract.
Day two I siphon them out, rinse, put in new salt water and add enrichment. After 12 hours I repeat this last stage.
Rinse well again before adding nauplii to the tank.
The rinsing and water changes are to minimize any airborne bacteria from getting a toe hold on the cultures.
To enrich with phyto you need a lot of different phytos as one type doesn't have all that is needed.
I personally prefer to use powders that I blend in the blender with water for at least two minutes.
For mandarins I would think using spirulina powder, especially if you can get Algamac 3050 to add a bit to, would be great for them.
I get my spirulina powder from Brine Shrimp Direct at around $10US/pound.
The Algamac 3050 can be bought from seahorsesource.com.
You can find more information about brine shrimp at the bottom of my page, Raising Brine Shrimp to Adult where I have some links for reading that include a DIY enrichment.
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Old 02-05-2014, 04:13 PM
monocus monocus is offline
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Default brine shrimp

i have DE-capsilized eggs that i can give you to start out.then you can hatch them in salt water.for gut loading i grow various phytoplankton and rotifers.j&l sells decap eggs at around $40 for a 3.5 oz bottle,but i get mine from brine shrimp direct by the lb(2 lb of premium small breeder size was $160 delivered)
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:12 PM
rayjay rayjay is offline
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What different phytos do you have? Rotifers are no good for enrichment as they are less nutritious than the newly hatched brine nauplii.
I have to enrich the rotifers before I can use them for seahorse fry, and even clownfish fry do better when properly enriched. They don't take as long as brine nauplii to enrich as they are voracious eaters.
It's a LOT cheaper to decapp your own cysts.
I buy the best cysts Brine Shrimp Direct sells and while it took me a few batches to get the timing down right, it's basically pretty simple and you can do a large batch to last a few weeks by storing them in saturated salt water in the fridge.
I did find however that when I changed brands of bleach, I sometimes had to adjust the time of bleaching as not all bleaches are the exact same strength.
When I stick to using the same brand I don't have the problem.
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:03 PM
monocus monocus is offline
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Default phyto

nanochloropus,tetraselmus,dunaiella,and soon isocrysis(as soon as i fix the blue leds for the lighting).i feed these all to my rotifers and brine shrimp
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Old 02-06-2014, 12:14 AM
rayjay rayjay is offline
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That's a good mix of phyto to use.
I'm too lazy to do all the work for the amount I need.
I had at my maximum, 150 gallons of nanno under culture but when I found how easy it was to grow the rots and brine with spirulina powder, I cut down to a couple of gallons.
For me, the nano was extremely easy other than when it became contaminated with rots, but the others were a PITA when I tried to ramp up to large containers.
Now, I do a bit more in the way of water changes for rots and brine, but save a heck of a lot of time in not culturing phyto. (hydro bill lowered too)
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:57 AM
monocus monocus is offline
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Default phyto

i use aquamedic reactors(3 rotifer,1 nano,1 tetra,1 dunaliella,1 isocrysis,1 spare)-all running off one pump(helon hp 20).i made all my lights using 1 watt leds(various colors for different phyto)so the cost is fairly small to run them.i produce more phyto than i can actually use(i have 11 tanks running at the moment-240 gal-10 gal)and i supply rotifers to j&l weekly(missed last week due to work schedule)i may spend an hour or two a week looking after everything
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2014, 09:43 AM
jason604 jason604 is offline
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im using kent marine'es phytoplex. Is this good enough or garbz?
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