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  #11  
Old 12-01-2005, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
when you're driving it it sounds almost like you've got a rag over the top of the carb causing it to really struggle for air..sounds like it's working really hard to be smooth
How is it for power on acceleration ? .... if poor maybe an exhaust restriction (catalyst convertor)
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2005, 07:04 PM
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I guess I type to slow
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150g reef, 55g sump, T5's, Vertech 200A, Profilux III - German made is highly over rated, should just say Gerpan made.

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  #13  
Old 12-01-2005, 08:35 PM
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power is very limited during acceleration.

just for something to do, i'm going to try a rebuilt carb for it, get a set of new plugs, test the wires, check the timing. my dad said he had some sort of meter used for doing the timing...it's not a gun tho. he said it was a dwell meter or something. see what that does.

and if the problem still persists, I guess change the timing chain/gears...and after that clean the intake manifold...and if that doesn't work...REPLACE THE DARN VEHICLE!
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2005, 09:46 PM
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The dwell meter will not be of any use to use for setting the timing. Dwell meters were used back in the days of point ignition to adjust the point gap. The dwell is basically the amount of time the current is flowing to the coil to charge it for firing. In electronic ignition systems the dwell is calculated by the ignition module and is non-adjustable. You will need a timing light to check the timing.
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  #15  
Old 12-02-2005, 12:53 AM
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is it back firing from the exhaust or out of the carb?
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  #16  
Old 12-02-2005, 01:48 AM
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out of the carb..

my little drive home found out the engine refuses to accellerate in 3rd gear no matter the amount i try to accelerate, it grunts for a second then downs to 2nd.

found a new carb for $240, dad said he'd help me out with it and take half..a rebuild kit is $50, so given the time to put the kit in and the assumption I do it all correctly.. $120 isn't bad for a new carb...i'm gonna be choked if that doesn't help at the same time i'll change plugs, wires, rotor and cap too just for benifit of the doubt.

found an extra gallon of syntech lying around today too! woohoo
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  #17  
Old 12-02-2005, 04:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Invigor
out of the carb..
check your timing first, sounds like it is way way advanced to the point where it is firing befor the intake valve is closed. I would even spend a couple bucks and get canadian tire or some other shop to check it if you don't have the proper stuff and are not sure of what you have to disable to check it like the MAP sensor ect.. also a common problem with thoes engins was they had a two piece harmonic balancer with rubber vulcanizing between them which comonly sliped throwing the timing marks way off, so to check this you have to put the #1 cyclender at top dead center then see if your timming marks are close.

Steve
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  #18  
Old 12-05-2005, 07:07 PM
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woohoo! on wednesday I'll have a rebuilt carb, new plugs, new wires, new rotor, new rotor cap to install.

got a semi-insulated garage to work in, and the day off..should be alright!
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  #19  
Old 12-07-2005, 09:14 PM
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new carb, new wires, new plugs, clean oil, new rotor, new cap...ahhhhh it's fabulous! runs like a brand new engine!
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  #20  
Old 12-08-2005, 09:45 AM
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