Blonde Naso QT HELP

[Reef23]

Hi all,
Picked up a very nice blonde Naso tang today. Before the tang police attack, there is a game plan behind this! He is only 3" and I'm hoping to be able to keep him in my 140G for a year or so. After that I have a friend with a 220G that agreed to take him over once size became an issue. At the store I saw him eat pellets and nori. No signs of any issue what so ever. Once bagged I had a 2hr drive. When I got home he already showed signs of stress with white dots on his sides. I have a 20G QT setup with 1.025 salinity. The store water is 1.024. I'm drip acclimating him now. I plan on hyposalinity treatment over the next 48hrs. Do you recommend a full 4wk QT? My Qt tank is in my "fish room" where my sump is located. I have a light over the fuge that comes on for 8hrs a night and lights up the room a far amount. Is this enough light for the QT or do I need to set something else up? Where do I get garlic to soak his food in ? Any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks

[naesco]

Originally Posted by Reef23

Hi all,
Picked up a very nice blonde Naso tang today. Before the tang police attack, there is a game plan behind this! He is only 3" and I'm hoping to be able to keep him in my 140G for a year or so. After that I have a friend with a 220G that agreed to take him over once size became an issue. At the store I saw him eat pellets and nori. No signs of any issue what so ever. Once bagged I had a 2hr drive. When I got home he already showed signs of stress with white dots on his sides. I have a 20G QT setup with 1.025 salinity. The store water is 1.024. I'm drip acclimating him now. I plan on hyposalinity treatment over the next 48hrs. Do you recommend a full 4wk QT? My Qt tank is in my "fish room" where my sump is located. I have a light over the fuge that comes on for 8hrs a night and lights up the room a far amount. Is this enough light for the QT or do I need to set something else up? Where do I get garlic to soak his food in ? Any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks

Go to the LFS and buy a product called Garlic Extreme or go to a health food store and buy garlic extract.
Soak the nori in the garlic. Feed often. Feed only garlic soaked food. The idea is to get as much garlic in him as possible.

[Reef23]

Will my lighting be ok ?

[naesco]

Originally Posted by Reef23

Will my lighting be ok ?

I do not think so. The best is to do the garlic regimen, observe the fish carefully and transfer it to your main tank as soon as you feel it is ok.
Continue the garlic regimen in the main tank. When you have a chance get some brown algae which naso's prefer.

[Aquattro]

I use fresh garlic, crushed on the nori to soak up all the oil. As for QT, my personal opinion is this can often cause additional stress for a fish already stressed. Any new Tang I get goes directly into my tank to give it as close to a natural environment as possible. The only tang I've lost was a powder blue that wasn't eating, and it never started.
I just added a new PB last week (known to be eating) and it's doing great. No ich, no stress and lots of eating.

[piusma]

If your QT is cycled, light isn't an issue at all. The key is water quality in the tank. You can only be certain that your fish is ick free if you're willing to do a 6 week treatment. Which means you'll need to water your saltinity on a regular basis OR make sure you have an ATO setup with your QT.

Now my question is what do you have in your main display tank and are you willing to risk a wipe out of your display tank if ick breaks loose in there. Some people never QT and they never had trouble. I've also heard about people who put a new fish in their display and it wipe out all their fish and starting all over again.

I QT all my fish for a 6 weeks period and I am not dropping any fish in my display without quarantine regardless of what they are. If they don't make it through the QT, it's still better than killing my other 10+ fish which I spent over a year adding through QT. You'll have a much higher successful rate if your QT is fully cycled.

I treat the fish with both prazipro and cupramine during this 6 week period and making sure the fish is eating well and fat before I drop them into my display.

Steven

[Reef23]

Is there a chance the fish doesn't have ich at all?
All the pics online don't look like the spots my tang has. He has large white patches not small sand like white spots. I will post pics this morning

[piusma]

There is always a chance that your tang does not have ick. But there is always a chance that it has nastier disease. Marine velvet could wipe out your tank within days. Flukes could spread to the rest of the fish in your tank and internal parasites like worms could spread in your system and slowly killing all your fish without you noticing. And you could have missing fish from time to time due to unknown reasons.

For long term success, I'd suggest everyone to QT. It's a pain but it's worthwhile. Now I am guessing that no other fish has been QT'ed before. Do a research on prazipro and if possible treat all of your fish with it. It help deworms the fish and also treats fluke. I believe it's a reef safe med but don't quote me for it, look it up.

I would just treat your naso with prazipro and observe your fish during the 7 days treatment and see if other complications arises. Since your main display might have ick already it MIGHT not be worth your extra time to do a full 6 weeks hypo. But at least keep it in your QT for a couple of weeks to avoid fast killing disease.

Steven

[daniella3d]

Prazipro is reef safe. I used it to treat my copperband butterfly and I had all sort of coral in there...SPS, acropora, montipora, soft and LPS. The only thing that really did not like the treatment was my xenia wich shriveled but survived and after the treatement it was well again.

I did 3 treatment for fluke and also some really long wom came out of my fish so it did have internal worms. Even my feather dusters were fine, and it did not affect the flatwoms either..unfortunatly.

Originally Posted by piusma

There is always a chance that your tang does not have ick. But there is always a chance that it has nastier disease. Marine velvet could wipe out your tank within days. Flukes could spread to the rest of the fish in your tank and internal parasites like worms could spread in your system and slowly killing all your fish without you noticing. And you could have missing fish from time to time due to unknown reasons.

For long term success, I'd suggest everyone to QT. It's a pain but it's worthwhile. Now I am guessing that no other fish has been QT'ed before. Do a research on prazipro and if possible treat all of your fish with it. It help deworms the fish and also treats fluke. I believe it's a reef safe med but don't quote me for it, look it up.

I would just treat your naso with prazipro and observe your fish during the 7 days treatment and see if other complications arises. Since your main display might have ick already it MIGHT not be worth your extra time to do a full 6 weeks hypo. But at least keep it in your QT for a couple of weeks to avoid fast killing disease.

Steven

[Reef23]

Originally Posted by daniella3d

Prazipro is reef safe. I used it to treat my copperband butterfly and I had all sort of coral in there...SPS, acropora, montipora, soft and LPS. The only thing that really did not like the treatment was my xenia wich shriveled but survived and after the treatement it was well again.

I did 3 treatment for fluke and also some really long wom came out of my fish so it did have internal worms. Even my feather dusters were fine, and it did not affect the flatwoms either..unfortunatly.

You added prazipro right to your display tank ?