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  #11  
Old 11-19-2008, 12:14 PM
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While a good product I am sure, never the preferred route when setting up a reef. While they work, the opportunity for "failure" exists on an issue that is easily avoidable with a drilled tank. It is the failures in this hobby, specially early on (particularily in the design stage), that get people frustrated with the hobby.

This being said, they can work flawlessly for long periods of time. I however would never recommend someone go this route.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trilinearmipmap View Post
If you do go with an overflow box Lifereef is widely acclaimed to be the best with the lowest failure rate. There is another company in the U.S. that apparently makes Lifereef knockoffs for 1/2 price, I can't recall their name. I don't have any personal experience with this but I read up on it a fair bit planning my own tanks.
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  #12  
Old 11-19-2008, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naesco View Post
I meant to say acropora. The pne year comment came from the vendor who gave me advice on keeping acropora and the books I have read.
Thanks for correcting my error.
Be careful not to lump all acropora into the same "hard to keep" mindset. There are several acros that are very easy to keep and care for. If the tank is set up properly and the parameters are optimal I see no reason to wait too long after the cycle is completed.
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2008, 04:56 PM
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I completely agree with wickedfrags.com. Seems to me the time to drill the tank is now. You'll have the tank empty at some point during the conversion, you won't have it empty once you stock it.

I used an overflow box for many years when first starting and yes they do work but yes they can fail in ways that a drilled tank cannot. Drilling is not hard and the holes can be easily plugged if you wish to convert to sump down the road (patch it over with glass, or just put a PVC cap in the bulkhead).

I guess to me it comes down to the KISS principle. To me drilling, although you have to first get into the right mindset of it I guess, is the simpler solution. Adding boxes and U-tubes or up-and-overs and etc. is the less simple approach.
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  #14  
Old 11-19-2008, 05:56 PM
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The KISS approach is usually the best. I have no fear or worries about drilling the tank myself. As of now my wife doesn't want the tank out from the wall any further than it is. And the way it's set up a side outlet would be best. There is a dead spot on one end that just collects kids junk that I will be taking over for a sump frag tank area. My issue with drilling is that when the tank is moved to a new location, the old hole may be visible and ruin the asthetics of the tank.

Does anyone have recomendations on flow rates through the sump?

I'm thinking I'm going to order the overflow and play around with it while the tank is still freshwater. That will give a couple months experience before the tank is drained. I'll make the decision whether to drill or not then.

After thinking about the timeline, March is probably pushing it, April is more realistic. It's got to be up and running by seeding time or it probably won't get done until next October, and that just won't do.
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  #15  
Old 11-19-2008, 06:39 PM
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I had the sump for my old tank at 600gph and will probably do the same with the new one. If you push the water too fast through it you'll get all sorts of bubbles and the equipment just won't have time to do it's job. Too slow and it gets stagnant.

Also, I'd second the recommendation that if it's going to be an SPS tank, start it with montipora's and hardy acros. I read an article recently (can't remember where) that went so far as to recommend putting your rock, corals, etc. in MONTHS before adding a single fish. I'll see if I can dig it up again and post a link. but the logic was that it gives everything in the tank a chance to flourish without any predation at all.

Last edited by Slick Fork; 11-19-2008 at 06:41 PM.
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