Which of these T5 combinations to pick?

[Squiddy]

I've got 3 x Blue+, 2 x Actinic+ and 1 x daylight bulbs in my T5 HO setup and I need to look at somthing different because everything is getting too bleached out. The daylight bulb puts out tons of light and is bleaching all of the coralline under it. When I bought my T5 bulbs, you couldn't get the true actinic bulbs so I would really like to get rid of one or two of the aquablue+ bulbs (very white in colour) and replace with another actinic+ and or true actinic.

I still have yet to see another T5 HO setup in person... doesn't seem to be any other Canreefers on the lower island. I'm going over to J&L & Ocean Aquatics (who both sell T5 bulbs) on the 16th and will pick up some more selection so I can figure out what I like best.

So far... my T5 setup has been bright as hell but is way too white in colour.

[albert_dao]

I hear ATI is coming out with an AWESOME bulb to replace their recently retired 10k (Super White).

[BCOrchidGuy]

I don't believe that actinic is mainly for our veiwing pleasure, light is absorbed in water as it penetrates deeper, red is the first to go, then orange, then yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet finish the list off. Actinic light promotes some distinct colours of coraline algae and no light at all or next to no light promotes other coralines. So.... blue light is available to almost all corals and inverts, most of our lights in our aquariums (fluorescents) are tri phosphors meaning they are made up of phosphors that give off light in three specific spectrums, usually red/yellow-green/blue cheaper lights only use two so they'd be missing out either red or blue and blue is the more expensive to create if I remember right so we'd end up with pinkish light. Tri phosphors are designed to give daylight appearance, 5000k to 6500k (daylight deluxe). You can also find cool white and warm white (both of the later are not tri phosphors).

Then again I may just be blowing smoke out of my butt, it's just my opinion.

Doug