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#11
04-12-2009, 04:07 AM
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1 important question...
Do you have a lot of stony corals? (I mean a whole tank full) Are you sure you need to dose ANYTHING? Often you can save all the supplements, and just do more frequent water changes. Usually pH isn't a problem, so long as organic waste isn't building up. 
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#12
04-12-2009, 04:42 AM
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I used to have a ph problem it was always at 7.8-7.9. No matter what I did, it would always return to this level. Now I don't test and I don't have a problem.
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72 gal bowfromt mixed reef sps dominated, 25 gal mineral mud type sump/refugium Skimmerless 2x250 14000k phoenix hqi 2x96 pc actinic, 50x flow
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#13
04-12-2009, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
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Brad
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#14
04-13-2009, 04:02 PM
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Like was forementioned, try opening up your glass tops a bit and/or opening some windows to the room. A lot of people find especially in the winter months a lower pH due to higher CO2 levels.
 Couldn't hurt to try!
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#15
04-13-2009, 05:18 PM
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Must admit that I used to chase pH levels early in the life of my set up. I worry much less about it these days since, as highlighted by posters with a great deal more experience than I, it's often a losing battle causing more stress to the reefer than the tank inhabitants. I wouldn't say my system is ideal, there are issues with algae etc, but nothing real serious and my livestock is fine.
The more I read up on dosing stuff to adjust and correct certain parameters in a SW setup, the more confused I get. The more you get into it, the more you need to keep an eye on other parameters. I like the fairly simple 'water change' methodology. Works just fine for me. I consider keeping a close eye on my tank inhabitants and their day to day behaviour as more helpful than many a test kit. Watching the tank is what it's all about, stress reliever hopefully, not stress creator worrying about keeping certain parameters within a very narrow, possibly unrealistic scale. Obviously I do use them if something starts looking funky, but I've found my pH test kit in particular, difficult to match with what's on the chart. Maybe I should invest in a better kit... Then there is the opposite camp with the complex probes, controllers, totally automated dosing systems. Successful for many highly experienced hobbyists, but at this point I prefer to keep it simple.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build  http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206
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#16
04-13-2009, 05:28 PM
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I believe that this Holmes-Farley article would be THE roadmap for dealing with low pH situation. This would be required reading for anyone who is questioning what their pH is doing and whether or not it needs attention.
I agree...manipulating pH should be the LAST thing that needs to be controlled and only once one has good control over Salinity, Alkalinity, Calcium, and Temperature. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.php
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400 gal reef. Established April, 2007. 3 Sequence Dart, RM12-4 skimmer, 2 x OM4Ways, Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown (pair), Blonde Naso Tang, Vlamingi Tang, Foxface Rabbit, Unicorn Tang, 2 Pakistani Butterflies and a few coral gobies My Tank: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436
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