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  #11  
Old 04-20-2011, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Gwenda View Post
I have tried but the link comes up blank. the tests that I did last night were the ph was 8.0 the ammona was 0.06 I went to 1.2 because thats what it showed on the chart if I read it right. on the chart it shows it in the yellow with those two numbers.
That's weird. It works for me. Try this: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=52543

Which brand test kit are you using?
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  #12  
Old 04-20-2011, 06:51 PM
Gwenda Gwenda is offline
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Originally Posted by Reef_kid View Post
I have had that happen, back 14 years ago when i started my first tanks.
i suggest you make up a batch of freash salt water , in a large rubbermade tub.
put airstones in it and a heater.(make sure the pH matches your tank) The airstone will help evolve the ammonia in the tank. put the fish in the tub.
for the tank get some nitrate remover, and phophate remover. ferric oxide. this can go in a filter bag in any area of water flow. and chyto macro algae is a essential in my mind.
do a large water change on the main tank, and run it for a few days.
the fish should be fine in the tub water, if possable you can have someone take them off your hand until the tank has ballances.

what happens is the bacteria grow exponentally, then they crash, resulting in a tank crash.


when you do add the fish back to the tank . limit the amount of food you feed them.

the macro algae and phosphate remover will remove a lot of the chemicals in the tank.

this hobby is about balanced and patients

(dont use ammonia filter mediums in reef tanks)
I stll have my old fish tank going with mor live rock and fish I can put them back in there
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  #13  
Old 04-20-2011, 06:54 PM
Gwenda Gwenda is offline
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Originally Posted by Myka View Post
The live rock in the display tank is "fresh" rock from the LFS? If so, it needs to be cured. The curing process releases ammonia as there will be die-off from the rock, when the nitrifying bacteria have reached a high enough population the ammonia level will drop. This will usually take 6-8 weeks. I have never heard of this Bacter Vital product, but it is obvious that it didn't work because there is ammonia in your tank. Your cycle isn't over until the ammonia is at zero for many days. The cloudiness in the tank is from the really high level of ammonia, and those fish will die if they aren't returned. Please call the store you got them from and ask if they will take the fish back until your tank has finished cycling in several weeks. It will take at least another 3-5 weeks for the tank to cycle with the ammonia level so high. Don't let the LFS tell you that it is ok to leave the fish in water that contains 1.2 ppm ammonia. If they DO tell you it is ok, please start shopping somewhere else!

It was a bit of a mistake to add the rock from the existing tank to this tank before the tank cycles. The ammonia from the new rock will kill a bunch of the life on the old cured rock you already had. The pod population and many worms and small critters like that will likely perish. In the future, the new rock should be cured (cycled) before adding the old cured rock.
The live rock is from my existing tanks
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  #14  
Old 04-21-2011, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Gwenda View Post
The live rock is from my existing tanks
Hmm...well something caused a large cycle. Maybe the live rock was out of water too long, and there is die-off. Maybe the 3-day cycle did it! I don't know what is in that 3-day cycle, but maybe it does have ammonia to kick start the cycle who knows. Either way, you have a major cycle going on, and it will take several weeks for it to finish. Just keep testing ammonia.

If you have another tank to put the fish in then, that would be wise. They would definitely appreciate that as ammonia burn on their gills is irreparable.
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  #15  
Old 04-21-2011, 09:22 PM
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Default bacterial Imblance

Vitamin A,vitamin d3, vitamin e,Trace MineralsCalcium, Phausphorus, NoCl<PotAssium, Magnesium, Sulfer ,Iron,Cobalt, Copper,Maganesium, sulfer, iron, cobalt, copper,maganese, iodine, selenium, zinc, florine. Is in the three day cycle.
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  #16  
Old 04-22-2011, 12:10 AM
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double post

Last edited by Money pit; 04-22-2011 at 12:13 AM.
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  #17  
Old 04-22-2011, 12:13 AM
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NoCl when added to water releases HCI. HCI is hydrogen chloride. Bleach is watered down HCI. So essentially, unless there is something else going on chemicaly to keep the chloride bonded, bleach will be added to the tank.
Seems this is how they kick start the cycle
Its been along time since Chem class, so I may be off on that. Any chemists out there?

Last edited by Money pit; 04-22-2011 at 12:19 AM.
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  #18  
Old 04-22-2011, 02:03 AM
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Is this a particular product? Seems really odd to be adding some of those metals especially if they're higher amounts. How much is put in the tank for this process?
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  #19  
Old 04-22-2011, 03:11 AM
Gwenda Gwenda is offline
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Default bacteral imbalance

I get it at Aquarium Illusion and you can get it at big als. You put one capfull for every fifty gallons. for three days and then you are suppose to put it in once a week after that to matain the tank. If we come on the weekend to your store I will bring it too show you.

Last edited by Gwenda; 04-22-2011 at 03:14 AM.
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  #20  
Old 04-30-2011, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwenda View Post
Vitamin A,vitamin d3, vitamin e,Trace MineralsCalcium, Phausphorus, NoCl<PotAssium, Magnesium, Sulfer ,Iron,Cobalt, Copper,Maganesium, sulfer, iron, cobalt, copper,maganese, iodine, selenium, zinc, florine. Is in the three day cycle.
Sounds like a deadly mixture. I wouldn't believe anything you hear about products like this. Throw a piece of shrimp in the tank and it will kick start your cycle. Much more reliable than this 3 Day Cycle crap. There is no way in hell you can cycle a SW setup, or any setup for that matter in 3 days.
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