Help with new 190 gal build

[gregzz4]

Originally Posted by coralor

BTW, gregzz4. Just checked out your rebuild posts. Awesome!! Love your tidy dosing system and electrical setup! Where did you find those large narrow plastic bottles?

Thanks!
Bought the containers from Reef Supplies 4 Liter Space Saver Container with Cap

[coralor]

I am definitely going with the external bean animal, thanks. And the tank may even be as big as 210 gal - working out the details as we speak but getting closer every day!
So the inside overflow part will be approx 22" long (probably with a split return) with 5-6" on both either side for power heads. I currently have 2 Jebao's running on my 105g DT and am overall pretty happy with them. They're quieter than my MP40 was, at least, but what I'd like to eliminate is the introduction of the electrical currents inside the DT if possible.
My concern is also having enough flow for the SPS as they are the corals I will have the most of. (Currently the same
Suggestions?

[coralor]

The new Peninsula DT is ordered!! Dimensions are 56" L x 34" W x 25.5" H. Low iron glass on the 3 viewing sides.
The stand is metal and will be 37" H with a 9" segment on the wall end that leaves room for the bean animal overflow to go down thru to (and over) the sump. (Hope that's enough room for me to work with the drains...)
The overflow will be a coast to coast with the 3 drains outside and 2 returns on the outermost edges. For flow I'm going with a Fluval SP4 return pump and a Maxspect Gyre fx250 or 280 situated on the middle of the overflow.
The 75 gal sump design is still being tweaked, but quiet everything is the primary concern without compromising flow.
Lighting will be ATI either 2 -4x bulb or 1 -8x bulb with up to 6 Kessil 160's in the middle or outsides respectively.
Two 300 watt heaters, a 25W UV sterilizer, JNS skimmer, GFO and CO2 scrubber since I believe our wood stove that we use all the time now with the cold weather contributes to my declining pH and alkalinity. And a 4 head dosing pump.
Am I forgetting anything?
The switch over will be interesting. Needs to be done in a matter of hours and the new tank and stand are going exactly where the old 105 g plus sump are, so I'm all ears if anyone has any advice. I plan on getting some huge rubbermaids and placing in a heater plus powerhead for flow. Do I need to be concerned about Oxygen levels for the fish/corals? The transfer may take at least 24 hours and I have a lot of SPS in particular. I wasn't planning on using an air stone but should I?
And probably all new sand. Rinsed with ro/di but not necessarily all added at the same time so as not to create too much murkiness. (However, I do have a Vortech diatom remover I could use to keep particulates lower if need be...)
I will be moving out a lot of the coral beforehand to my 80 gal frag tank downstairs just in case.

[SoloSK71]

Originally Posted by coralor

but what I'd like to eliminate is the introduction of the electrical currents inside the DT if possible.

In over 25 years of aquarium keeping I have had this happen exactly once and it was from a frayed wire on a used piece of equipment that I had not checked first. YMMV but this is not a major risk, and using GFCI circuits, drip loops and avoiding the cable monster should be all the electrical risk mitigation you need.

Originally Posted by coralor

My concern is also having enough flow for the SPS as they are the corals I will have the most of. (Currently the same
Suggestions?

Do you ever plan to control your pumps/skimmer/total system? If so, then start with the purchasing that equipment, as trading up with cost from 2 to 3 times in the end. Having said that, I agree that the eheim 1292 is the best base choice. Not the most silent, but reliable and does not have the close tolerances some of the newer, higher performance (more expensive) ones do. Another good choice in the same cost range Sicce Syncra Silent 5, or stepping up to controllable pumps in the same cost range in Canada, a Reef Octopus VarioS-6 or Waveline DC6000

Originally Posted by coralor

I wasn't planning on using an air stone but should I?

A powerhead with a foam intake guard will do a lot better at oxygenation (flow) than any air pump and stone.

Charles

[mseepman]

I have a peninsula tank a little larger than yours...most of the details on my build on are my thread here...feel free to ask any questions.

[coralor]

Thank you, Charles. I guess if I keep the heater around 79 deg and a powerhead in the tupperware the critters should all be ok for the day? I definitely would like to get set up for automatic controllers, but unfortunately had already ordered the Fluval SP4 before reading the posts.
I have a lot more studying to do to learn about the APEX system and whatever others are currently out there but I figure for now if I have the ATI it should come with a controller, and I already have 2 controllers for the Kessils...Honestly not sure really where to start with the whole "control" idea, but if you could point me in the right direction, I can start researching more...
Lor

[coralor]

And Mark, WOW!! I just read thru your tank build and it was VERY helpful! (And gorgeous) Thank you so much for sharing!!
I do have a few questions:
I noticed you had your returns come up and over the overflow but I was planning on having the overflow as a coast to coast and the returns situated on the outside edges. And a Maxspect Gyre maybe 280 on the inside.
I was hoping that would be enough total flow for the whole tank?
And concerning your SPS loss, did you ever figure it out? I had a similar issue that was due primarily to low Alk and now things are much better.

[coralor]

Well it turns out I'm not getting the Fluval SP4 after all.
The purchase didn't go thru. Maybe that's more than a coincidence, lol)
Anyhow, back searching for a controllable pump now. In particular the Reef octopus vario 6, but not 100% yet. None available I could find currently...
I do like the idea of controllable, yet quiet. Thx for the tips😊

[coralor]

Would a Waveline DC 6000 be large enough, though? I was thinking the 10000 model.