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  #1  
Old 01-29-2002, 01:50 AM
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Default Scary thing to come home to

I came home today and my temp was at 71.. My 3 month old jagger heater wasn't on.. Everything looked fine..acros even had full polyp extension.. But the xenia looked horrible!.. Most of it is coming around now, but much longer and it may have all crashed.. Now you know how to get rid of it! I wouldn't mind so mush, but I can actually make some money from it in town..

Well I guess better a cool down then an overheat eh darren?
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  #2  
Old 01-29-2002, 02:55 AM
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wasnt it an ebo jager that konked out on darren? what the heck is with these heaters. now im getting all nervous cause i am running a single 250 watt ebo.
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Old 01-29-2002, 02:12 PM
Reefmaster Reefmaster is offline
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we have three that are i think within a year or year and a half old and have troubles with them not coming on or off. just another reason for an aquacontroller....unless we nominate darren for v.p. - technical developement (so he can built those temp controllers!! [img]images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] [img]images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
shane
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Old 01-29-2002, 06:32 PM
George George is offline
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Althought I never tried it, but I heard that titanium heater was supposed to be good. Do a search for WON titanium heater on reefcentral.

HTH
George
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  #5  
Old 01-29-2002, 09:03 PM
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I bought one of the titanium heaters but it isn't a won, maby if mike reads this he can say what the brand name is and how he likes the ones he is using.

Steve
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2002, 01:31 AM
reefburnaby reefburnaby is offline
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Hi,

I don't know if anybody else is using these, but I use the Hagen Tronic heaters. They don't use relays to turn on and off the heaters. Relays are mechanical power switches that can be controlled electrically. Solid state (i.e. 100% electronic) power switches are used in the Tronic. Since solid state has no moving parts, it is less likely to fail.

As a precaution, I keep the plastic temperature dial / cap above water. Plastic tends to shrink and crack when it is submersed in water for an extended amount of time. Most submersible heaters can withstand this, but I do this as a precaution.

I have also found that crummy electrical outlets/power bars can be devastiting for a life support system/reef. Salt water vapour can corrode the contacts on the AC plug and outlets. Over time, the corrosion can prevent the heater from receiving power. So, quality AC outlets should be used. Hospital grade AC outlets are the best. They provide a good electrical contact and they are designed for the life support systems for hospitals.

Also, I have more than one heater in the tank. It is design to prevent the tank from getting too hot or too cold if one of the heaters fails (stuck on or stuck off).

One_Divided,

So, did the heater fail or was it the outlet. When I first started reefkeeping, my heaters would keep turn on and off. The problem was a crummy power bar.

Hope that helps.

- Victor.

[ 29 January 2002: Message edited by: reefburnaby ]</p>
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Old 01-30-2002, 01:46 AM
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reefburnaby
I have been using tronic's in my freshwater tanks for 2 years, the solid state electronics is nice and I have mine totaly submerged, I have been happy with them so far except for they seam to develop brownish raindrop looking stuff inside them after about 6 months hehe.. doesent afect them from what I can tell though.

Steve
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  #8  
Old 01-30-2002, 04:48 AM
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so what heaters are reliable? cause ebos arent sounding to good right now.
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  #9  
Old 01-30-2002, 12:23 PM
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Hello,

I also use the Hagen Tronic ones. I never understand why the fish stores will sell mechanical stuff. Maybe there are other benefits but as far as I've heard, experienced, and understood, the transistor in the Tronic line is pretty much fail safe.
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  #10  
Old 01-30-2002, 01:58 PM
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To add in my 2cents, I have 16 200w tronic heaters and Ive had some of them for over 6 years. Never had a single problem with any of them and I have some submersed and some not. Because Ive had so many without problem, I would recommend these heaters over all others!
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