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  #11  
Old 02-23-2018, 03:41 AM
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I would be careful transferring too much as if essential bacteria die off this may cause an ammonia spike. If you are aggressively dosing NOPOX, you will literally run in to zero nitrates (have dosed Nopox in the past).

What nitrate test kit are you using? I feel as if your reading may be inaccurate based on your livestock amount. 100ppm is very high, I am overstocked and currently have 25ppm which I’m trying to reduce down with more natural methods.
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  #12  
Old 02-23-2018, 04:35 AM
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I would first double check your test kit with a completely different brand of test kit. Some test kits are good for high range some are good for low range and some are just crap or from a bad batch.

I would check the phosphate as well (use the hanna ULR for this). Sometimes when the nitrate is high the phosphate is extremely low. More importantly than high nitrates is you have to have the nitrate phosphates in balance. If low phosphates is the problem it can cause serious problems with your corals. You may be inadvertently adding nitrates to your tank which have crashed your phosphates. What additives are you putting in your tanks?

I crashed my phosphates by adding nitrates last year and within a couple days fried about half of my sps.

If you nitrates are high and your phosphates are equally high you need to ask yourself what have you done (husbandry) to get your nitrates that high? What are you feeding?
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2018, 12:11 PM
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How old is this tank? If it's less than a year old, what type of rock did you use to start it?

These guys are right about the phosphate. The key element they haven't mentioned is that if the PO4 is "zero", then the NOPOX will not work (nor any other type of carbon dosing). The bacteria that feed off the NOPOX use organic carbon (the NOPOX), nitrate, and phosphate. If any of these nutrients are missing then the bacteria will not be able to do their job. If you've stripped the PO4 out, then the nitrate will continue to rise.

The rock, sand (for those who have it), and the water always want to be at equilibrium - so when you do a big water change, the water will be cleaner than the rock and sand. The rock and sand will then leach both nitrate (and phosphate if available) until they are back at equilibrium. That's why you're seeing no reduction in nitrate the next day. For this reason, using water changes to reduce nitrate is not a good long-term solution. The NOPOX or biopellets or something is a good option, just stick to 10-15% water changes, and you may need to ADD phosphate to your system in order for the NOPOX to be able to reduce nitrate.

So first order of business, get a phosphate reading. I also agree the phosphare checkers are a good option. I don't think you need the ULR (ultra low range) one since you want phosphate to be high end to get a reading on the ULR and the regular, so it really doesn't matter which one you buy.
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  #14  
Old 02-24-2018, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCOrchidGuy View Post
Gone for 5 days, and I find a large portion of my corals have turned almost to skeletons. I've been battling high nitrates and using nopox, I've done days worth of large water changes and the nitrates drop for the day and then back over 100 the next day. Bare bottom tank, lots of live rock...

What's happening
Ca 400
Alk 7
Mg 1140
Nitrates 100ish... no missing livestock.
Yes I had that problem of unbalanced nutreances. I had to raise po4 to drop my no3.
I also had some Maida rock that turned to mush. After I took that out my nitrates dropped. I am now off the nopo-x. What through a spick because of nopox bactira dieing. I had to much going on. Nopox and vibrant and gfo. All unstablizing eachouther
I'm still perty new though. Just my exsperance. Nopox worked too good. I want from no3 50+ in a couple weeks to 0. And didn't effect po4 at all.

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  #15  
Old 02-24-2018, 12:44 AM
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YOu got to do some big water changes to get that nitrate down man
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  #16  
Old 02-25-2018, 04:21 AM
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Thanks for all the advice, like I said I did a bunch of large water changes 50% to 75% a couple of times and 25% 4 or 5 times.

Tank is about 2 years old, all other paramaters being maintained fairly steady.

Regarding checking the test kit, I would test my new mixed water just incase I had nitrates coming in with the tap water but nitrates were zero. After a large water change my nitrates would be on par with what percentage of water I changed but within a day or two the nitrates were over 100 again.

I have not checked phosphates but I will purchase a test kit tomorrow.

Thanks for all the input
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  #17  
Old 02-25-2018, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCOrchidGuy View Post
Thanks for all the advice, like I said I did a bunch of large water changes 50% to 75% a couple of times and 25% 4 or 5 times.

Tank is about 2 years old, all other paramaters being maintained fairly steady.

Regarding checking the test kit, I would test my new mixed water just incase I had nitrates coming in with the tap water but nitrates were zero. After a large water change my nitrates would be on par with what percentage of water I changed but within a day or two the nitrates were over 100 again.

I have not checked phosphates but I will purchase a test kit tomorrow.

Thanks for all the input
The phosphate number will give a better look in to the balance of nitrates and phosphates. Once this is determined you should be able to correct the issue.
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  #18  
Old 02-25-2018, 08:59 PM
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PO4 is unreadable, effectively 0
NO3 25
pH 8.03
Salinity 1.024
Ca 400
Mg 1300
Alk 8dKH

This is after I moved everything into a new tank almost 3 times the volume of the old system. I went from a 25 gallon with a sump to a 75 gallon with the same sump that I calculate to hold about 15 gallons. I moved about 10 - 15 gallons of the old water and all the live rock to the new system after it was all rinsed.

Coral isn't getting worse, LPS is all open and actively feeding, SPS is ... to be determined. Zoas are all happy except for one colony so it may be light or some irritant, I'm going to move that colony. My three rbta seem happy, one moved to a more happy location.
Seeing a few pods skittering in the rock too.
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  #19  
Old 02-26-2018, 02:09 AM
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Your corals that photosynthesize require both nitrogen and phosphorus at a specific ratio to complete the process. If one is limiting the process is stopped or reduced. This will cause the other one to artificially increase because the zooxanthellae, algae and other photosynthesizing organisms don't have enough of the other to continue. Your tank may not have 0 phosphates however any new phosphates that are added via food, additives or fish poop is quickly used up.

This sounds like it is a distinct possibility in your tank. You have enough phosphates to keep the corals alive but not enough to use up the nitrogen or to make your corals happy.

SPS are the most affected because zooxanthellae are their primary source of food.

Last edited by Frogger; 02-26-2018 at 02:11 AM.
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  #20  
Old 02-26-2018, 03:26 PM
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I would try to feed more to get the Po4 up. Last I checked my po4was .11 and sps are thriving....

My success is mainly due to the heavy feedings with a ton of fish.
I haven’t tested nitrates for awhile but I assume that it’s over 10.
I may do a large wc this week to reset the Po4 to half but reluctant to touch anything while the tank is thriving.

Try feeding more and see if that helps your sps!
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