Algaefix experiment

[tim_s]

Understandable,

I do not want to start from the beginning but algafix is great but you still need to resolve where the problem is coming from.

Check your lights if they are tubes you may need to replace them
What are the nitrate levels?
Feeding schedules?
Using tap water?

These are all things that will effect your corals etc as well.

[cyberdude47]

Originally Posted by tim_s

Understandable,

I do not want to start from the beginning but algafix is great but you still need to resolve where the problem is coming from.

Check your lights if they are tubes you may need to replace them
What are the nitrate levels?
Feeding schedules?
Using tap water?

These are all things that will effect your corals etc as well.

I don't want to start over either. As for your questions,
Lighting is LED. (Vertex illumina 1200)
At max 50%
Nitrate & phosphate is undetectable,
even after my massive scrubbing,
Have always ran carbon and started running GFO this last half of this yr.
other parameters are
CA 420-450
ALK 9-10
MG 1600-1800
PH 7.9-8.1
Temp 77

water is topped up with a 4 stage RO/DI and I've never let my TDS go over .005 and use an auto top off with a kalk reactor
Feeding schedules for the last yr and have been cut to a single feeding every 48hrs ( auto feeder) and I only use high quality low phos foods.
I also run filter socks to trap and extra detritus
And I know its not from lack of skimming due to having a deltec AP703 on this system and recently swapped that out to a bubble king 200.
So I'm at a total loss and this is going to be my final take at this battle before i call it and its a tear down

[tim_s]

You are running a skimmer and thus your oxygen should be decent but how is surface agitation in your display tank.

Keep it simple - algae has 3 major variables.

1: lighting is covered by your LED lighting.

2: fertilizer which is covered I your supplements

3: Co2

So my guess is the tests are missing something.

[cyberdude47]

Surface agitation is good. I've got 4 koralias 4's in the tank which disturb the surface quite well. I even have tried segments of turning the lights off for up to 10 days at a time which still had no effect. My guess is the live rock is leeching phosphates as the rock is out of my 500 gallon which had a run of bad luck towards the end of its end which led to some neglect and lack of maintenance out of frustration. And my guess is the phosphates is being used up by the algae which is reason for the skewed readings.

[tim_s]

Well we can prove this wrong,

I imagine if you had enough phos. to cause a major algae outbreak it would be detectable but depending on your corals (ps. I personally have not seen any bad results but some people have reported phosban effecting corals) you can add phosban.

How large are the live rocks?

If you dare or have the capacity you can take one of the larger rocks and rest it within distilled water. You will have die off but Phosphates should collect if your theory is true.

[cyberdude47]

I already run phosban & GFO, and activated carbon as for the test you described. I might consider that after I give this algaecide a try

[notclear]

I read this thread last night and now I have the chance to make some comments. I didn't read the whole thread again this morning so the comments are based on my memory and the previous posts.

1. It is good step to take the refugium offline as it will kill the cheato if there is any.

2. Algaefix won't kill byropsis.

3. For a 75 G tank and if you dose 15ml, you are doubling the recommendation dose. I believe it asks to dose 1ml per 10 G. Don't forget if you have plenty of rock the tank volume will be less than 75G.

4. No need to turn off GFO and carbon during dosing period.

5. Don't dose more than 10 doses or you will risk losing small fish such as dottyback, mandarin, etc.

6. You probably won't see any difference before the 7 doses.

[cyberdude47]

Originally Posted by notclear

I read this thread last night and now I have the chance to make some comments. I didn't read the whole thread again this morning so the comments are based on my memory and the previous posts.

1. It is good step to take the refugium offline as it will kill the cheato if there is any.

2. Algaefix won't kill byropsis.

3. For a 75 G tank and if you dose 15ml, you are doubling the recommendation dose. I believe it asks to dose 1ml per 10 G. Don't forget if you have plenty of rock the tank volume will be less than 75G.

4. No need to turn off GFO and carbon during dosing period.

5. Don't dose more than 10 doses or you will risk losing small fish such as dottyback, mandarin, etc.

6. You probably won't see any difference before the 7 doses.

To answer your questions.

The Refugio's is offline and has been since July
My tank is a 75 gallon but has a calculated total volume of 140gal as it has a 60 gal sump plus reactors skimmer ect
I'm aware that it won't affect bryopsis and will plan on a tech M cycle once everything is under control and happy again if anything is remaining
It is recommended to shut off all skimming carbon and GFO as it reduces the effectiveness of the product. Even though there are cases of ppl having results while under treatments I choose to try and get the most effectiveness but remain to skim heavily

[tim_s]

I am going to say, Your results are confusing.

First off before I continue as I am going to start looking at the basics you seem a knowledgeable person, which is clear in your responses. My comments are not relative to your ability to keep a tank.

Here are my questions,

1: Skimmer - describe the waste colour.

2: Nitrates - what means are you using to test this? Is your kit in date, are you insuring you are both shaking the bottles and test samples between Bottle # 1 and Bottle # 2

I am really guessing my way through this because your test results are odd. You mentioned you ran "lights out" for 10 days - Do you have photosynthetic corals?

Algae can make use of low spectrum lighting, is your tank facing a window?

[cyberdude47]

Originally Posted by tim_s

I am going to say, Your results are confusing.

First off before I continue as I am going to start looking at the basics you seem a knowledgeable person, which is clear in your responses. My comments are not relative to your ability to keep a tank.

Here are my questions,

1: Skimmer - describe the waste colour.

2: Nitrates - what means are you using to test this? Is your kit in date, are you insuring you are both shaking the bottles and test samples between Bottle # 1 and Bottle # 2

I am really guessing my way through this because your test results are odd. You mentioned you ran "lights out" for 10 days - Do you have photosynthetic corals?

Algae can make use of low spectrum lighting, is your tank facing a window?

Sorry not trying to make things confusing and I do appreciate all help as any knowledge is helpful.

Skimmer collection is a dark green. I've been trying my best to skim wet but with the bubble king its difficult as it wants to overflow
Nitrates are tested with a salifert kit. Now I'm not feeling great regarding the kits results as the kit is a couple years old now and I have had skewed results from old kits and I have ordered new test kits to double check results

I do have photosynthetic coral and SPS which why I ran only a maximum of ten days. I know its quite a stretch but I wanted to try all options. And yes the tank is very close to a French door that leads outside. The windows on the doors do have internal blinds that I leave closed at all times but some ambient light still reaches the tank that I'm aware could be a contributing factor but the tank cannot go anywhere else as the plumbing goes through the wall at that point to the equipment wet closet