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  #41  
Old 01-11-2016, 05:08 PM
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Brian, just skimmed through your thread, that's a whole lot of work you did buddy. One thing I want to mention is that overflow, I have had nothing but bad experience with them...I think you should drill...
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  #42  
Old 01-11-2016, 06:19 PM
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I see you painted the back of a tank and swapped to a different size? If you wanna black out the back of the new tank you can Pm me I have some black vinyl you can have for free, save your floor from overspray again. And if you want to drill the tank as Rich suggested I have a mastercraft maximum kit you can borrow, never tried it but looks like it would do the trick
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  #43  
Old 01-11-2016, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bblinks View Post
Brian, just skimmed through your thread, that's a whole lot of work you did buddy. One thing I want to mention is that overflow, I have had nothing but bad experience with them...I think you should drill...
Ugh ya, another member spit.fire actually offered to drill for me too but at this point the plumbing is complete and I don't want to have to alter it again especially with the added costs of replumbing. I will be adding float switches inside the overflow and the main tank to my RKE for another level of redundancy. Could I ask you what bad experience you had with one. Whenever someone tells me they had a bad experience with HOB I have been asking about the experience to see if I can failsafe it further. This is just a starter tank for me and I'm sure within couple of years I'll be upgrading again and I'll make sure to have it drilled next time before I get building.

Last edited by Etaloche; 01-11-2016 at 07:58 PM.
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  #44  
Old 01-11-2016, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoFish View Post
I see you painted the back of a tank and swapped to a different size? If you wanna black out the back of the new tank you can Pm me I have some black vinyl you can have for free, save your floor from overspray again. And if you want to drill the tank as Rich suggested I have a mastercraft maximum kit you can borrow, never tried it but looks like it would do the trick
Thanks for the offer! I should really post my plans for the tank and see if anyone can help before jumping into it. This hasn't been the first time someone offered to help but I got it done already I actually just painted the back black last night but used a roller instead of spray paint to avoid over spray this time.
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  #45  
Old 01-12-2016, 02:10 AM
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As I mentioned I managed to paint the back before falling asleep again.



No mess this time



Also went and picked up this RO/DI unit from a member here
It was $50 and just thought I'd give it a try. Was expecting a simple 3 stage unit but I think this is 5 stage?



Was told that the DI filter and the RO membrane were almost new when it was taken down.
The unit hasn't been in use for over a year though. Are there any precautions I should take to flush out the system before using?
I'll have to add a TDS meter, pressure gauge, and possibly a flush kit in the future.

Last edited by Etaloche; 01-12-2016 at 02:14 AM.
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  #46  
Old 01-12-2016, 03:15 AM
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Wow, you've been busy! Do you want the thread title changed? It's no longer a 29-gallon!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Etaloche View Post
Ugh ya, another member spit.fire actually offered to drill for me too but at this point the plumbing is complete and I don't want to have to alter it again especially with the added costs of replumbing.
I don't think you'd have to redo the plumbing. Some minor modifications and you'd be on your way. Although not ideal, you could make an internal overflow box in the middle of the back of the tank and have the drains use the same holes you already made in the stand. Ideally, you'd make an overflow in a corner. I'll hop on the "you should drill" boat too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Etaloche View Post
Also went and picked up this RO/DI unit from a member here
It was $50 and just thought I'd give it a try. Was expecting a simple 3 stage unit but I think this is 5 stage?

Was told that the DI filter and the RO membrane were almost new when it was taken down.
The unit hasn't been in use for over a year though. Are there any precautions I should take to flush out the system before using?
I'll have to add a TDS meter, pressure gauge, and possibly a flush kit in the future.
Yes, that's a 5-stage. I'd suggest you run it just with the sediment and carbon filters first for 5 gallons or so, then add the RO to it for another 2 gallons (test TDS after the RO while you're at it), then put the DI on and run it for 2 gallons, then test the TDS of the RO/DI water. Just get a handheld TDS meter - they're like $15 or less. Just make sure you buy one that comes with a little screwdriver so you can calibrate it. Some cannot be calibrated.
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Last edited by Myka; 01-12-2016 at 03:20 AM.
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  #47  
Old 01-12-2016, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bblinks View Post
I think you should drill...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Myka View Post
I'll hop on the "you should drill" boat too.
Ok I think at this point it'd just be stubborn of me to not take this advice after so many people have tried to tell me to. I came home last night and just tried to visualize how to redo parts of the plumbing.
I'll be asking around and try to get the tank drilled in the next week.

One of the reasons I didn't want to drill/overflow was that because my tank is not very deep, only 12.5 inches so an overflow inside the tank would take up a lot of room.

I'll be trying to fabricate something like this so that it's less intrusive

I even had thoughts of being super ambitious and try to do the Bean Animal method but I don't think my cabinet has room for another plumbing line to run through it haha



Quote:
Originally Posted by Myka View Post
Ideally, you'd make an overflow in a corner.
I did not know this, thought the overflow could just be anywhere. Could you explain to me why this is the case?
My reasoning for putting in the middle was that it'd be less likely that snails and whatnot would end up there rather than in a corner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Myka View Post
Yes, that's a 5-stage. I'd suggest you run it just with the sediment and carbon filters first for 5 gallons or so, then add the RO to it for another 2 gallons (test TDS after the RO while you're at it), then put the DI on and run it for 2 gallons, then test the TDS of the RO/DI water. Just get a handheld TDS meter - they're like $15 or less. Just make sure you buy one that comes with a little screwdriver so you can calibrate it. Some cannot be calibrated.
Alright I'll do this once it's hooked up. I think I will just get an inline one since they're not that expensive and the ease of use is a big appeal to me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Myka View Post
Do you want the thread title changed? It's no longer a 29-gallon!
Budget doesn't exist in this hobby: Brian's 45g build

Thanks!

Last edited by Etaloche; 01-12-2016 at 04:32 PM.
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  #48  
Old 01-15-2016, 01:59 PM
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Hey Brian great looking build so far, I think building and putting it all together is the best part of reefing and of course the finished product makes it all worth the work.
See you Saturday

PS: budget what's that?
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  #49  
Old 01-15-2016, 02:23 PM
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Brian, looking at the overflow you currently have, you could drill the back of your tank to line up with the bulkheads in the front of that overflow. You'd have to use some silicone on the bulkhead threads (inside the overflow) to get a good seal. Drilling through the bottom of an unknown tank can be risky since you don't know if it's tempered or not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Etaloche View Post
I did not know this, thought the overflow could just be anywhere. Could you explain to me why this is the case?
My reasoning for putting in the middle was that it'd be less likely that snails and whatnot would end up there rather than in a corner.
Just visually. Since your tank is only 12" wide, an internal overflow will protrude a lot. I'd put it in a back corner. It won't make much, if any difference with the critters. I've never noticed that issue, nor actually thought about that before.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Etaloche
Alright I'll do this once it's hooked up. I think I will just get an inline one since they're not that expensive and the ease of use is a big appeal to me
The thing about an inline TDS meter is that it only tests that one line. If you have a handheld one then you can test the tap water, you can disconnect the hose between the RO and the DI and check the RO performance and when it needs to be replaced, and you can check the product water after the DI as well. Also, the inline TDS meters can be tricky to get an accurate calibration on them since they need flowing calibration fluid. I find handheld TDS meters easier to use long-term. That's just my preferred method though.
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Last edited by Myka; 01-15-2016 at 02:31 PM.
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  #50  
Old 01-16-2016, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Guy View Post
Hey Brian great looking build so far, I think building and putting it all together is the best part of reefing and of course the finished product makes it all worth the work.
See you Saturday

PS: budget what's that?
Couldn't agree with you more, see you tomorrow!
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