Hippo tang has white spots

[sdeschutter]

In regards to your other comments, is this your first reef tank? For a tank that's only 6 weeks old, you have a lot of fish in there already. IMO, you're probably moving a bit too fast. Did you use 100% live rock or did you use dry rock too? Dry rock is not equal to live rock. What brand of test kits are you using to test the tank? Are you using a refractometer or hydrometer for testing salinity? What are the actual numbers you've tested? "Parameters are good" is a bit vague. Just trying to make sure you're on the right track, regardless of the Hippo Tang situation.

No it's no my first reef tank. I never got to the point of sps, but had lps. I had one about 7 years ago, but moved and you know how it goes. Yes I have 100% live rock and a 2 " sand bed, with a sump. My tank cycled in like 3 weeks before the nitrates were at like 0, then I added inverts. Then a couple fish and so on. I use API test kits and a refractometer. I've tested everything with regards to fish. Ph 8.3, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and nitrate 5 ppm or less. Salinity 1.025, temp 81. I have a vertex in 100 skimmer and that's it.

As for the UV it seems that there are some reefers that use one in the display reef tank and there are others that are dead set against it on a reef system. Should I use a UV on my display tank? Again my goal is a nice Sps tank.

Btw I'll start setting up my tank transfer set up today.

[Myka]

Originally Posted by sdeschutter

No it's no my first reef tank. I never got to the point of sps, but had lps. I had one about 7 years ago, but moved and you know how it goes. Yes I have 100% live rock and a 2 " sand bed, with a sump. My tank cycled in like 3 weeks before the nitrates were at like 0, then I added inverts. Then a couple fish and so on. I use API test kits and a refractometer. I've tested everything with regards to fish. Ph 8.3, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and nitrate 5 ppm or less. Salinity 1.025, temp 81. I have a vertex in 100 skimmer and that's it.

Sounds like a good start! Maybe a bit fast with the fish addition of 5 in 3 weeks. Once you start getting serious into the corals I would suggest you upgrade your test kits - specifically for calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, nitrate, and phosphate. You don't need them now though. I don't mind API for nitrate and ammonia, though I've had the API kits go kinda wacky when they get older.

As for the UV it seems that there are some reefers that use one in the display reef tank and there are others that are dead set against it on a reef system. Should I use a UV on my display tank? Again my goal is a nice Sps tank.

I can't say I've ever seen issues I could correlate to the use of a UV Sterilizer except maybe on some tanks it adds too much heat. If you have central air conditioning you should be fine though.

Btw I'll start setting up my tank transfer set up today.

Awesome. How's the Hippo doing today?

[sdeschutter]

So what do you suggest for test kits. I already have my calcium magnesium and phosphate test kit but it's an API one. Seachem? The hippo tang seems to be actually doing better the white spots are less, but one of my other fish does have one or two spots on him now. I haven't really had the time yet to set up my hospital tank I'll do it today. I think I'm just going to go us the copper treatment it seems to be the way that has the least amount of work. I was reading that only Seachem ammonia test kits work in a copper treatment tank. Is that true? Can I use my API ammonia tester?

Apparently my biggest concern with the hospital tank with copper is keeping the ammonia down. So once I get the tank set up and I get my little penguin filter running I'm going to put a piece of live rock in the filter to start the bacterial filter. Think that's a good idea? Any suggestions on how to keep my Monias down? How much water should I change? How often? I know I have to be trying to get all the poop and uneaten food as I do a water change but should I do one every three days or two days? what is a good routine?

Thanks for all your input!

[Myka]

Originally Posted by sdeschutter

So what do you suggest for test kits. I already have my calcium magnesium and phosphate test kit but it's an API one. Seachem?

I really like Elos for all kits, but they can be hard to find, and a bit more money than the rest. www.reefsupplies.ca has the full line, and free shipping over $149.

I like the Hanna Checkers for alkalinity and phosphate. I don't like the Hanna Calcium kit - it's tough to get a consistent reading. You have to be VERY diligent with your accuracy in testing.

Salifert kits are ok. They are cheaper than Elos, and easier to find. I find the calcium and alkalinity kits read quite a bit higher than other kits, so if I'm using these ones I tend to err on the high side.

I do not recommend SeaChem or Hagen kits for anything.

I was reading that only Seachem ammonia test kits work in a copper treatment tank. Is that true? Can I use my API ammonia tester?

You can also use API ammonia test kits and Seachem Ammonia Alert badges. Be aware if you use the Ammonia Alert badge that it tends to not actually be accurate as far as the reading goes, but it does work as an alert - as in, if it changes color there is ammonia, you just don't know how much.

There are two different types of ammonia test kits - Nessler and salicylate. ONLY Nessler kits are compatible with ammonia detoxifier prodcts (like Prime and AmQuel). API and SeaChem are both Nessler. I think the API ammonia kit is better than the SeaChem one.

Apparently my biggest concern with the hospital tank with copper is keeping the ammonia down. So once I get the tank set up and I get my little penguin filter running I'm going to put a piece of live rock in the filter to start the bacterial filter. Think that's a good idea? Any suggestions on how to keep my Monias down?

Don't put rock or sand in with copper treatment - it absorbs the copper and makes the treatment less effective. It also makes it so you can't use the rock or sand with any invertebrates again - ever.

Use Prime or AmQuel to control ammonia. Use the bottle label for dosing instructions as far as how much to add on each dose, but you will need to do multiple doses. You will end up having to dose twice a day probably. The dosing is something like 5 mL for 50 gallons - you may need to dose that 5 mL twice a day.

How much water should I change? How often? I know I have to be trying to get all the poop and uneaten food as I do a water change but should I do one every three days or two days? what is a good routine?

If you are using lots of ammonia detoxifier (having to dose twice a day) then you should do 25% water change every 2-3 days. If you don't have to dose a bunch of ammonia detoxifier (like later on when there is no medication) then 15% once a week is enough.

You should be bottom siphoning to remove uneaten food and fish poop everyday. Use a piece of rigid airline tubing attached to a length of flexible airline tubing to make a small siphon hose. You can bottom vacuum without removing much water.

Also, very important - you have to replace the medication you remove during a waterchange. If you do a 25% waterchange, then you have to re-dose 25% medication unless the medication package tells you different. Such as Furan 2 tells you when to do water changes and how much.

[George]

Originally Posted by sdeschutter

....
I think I'm just going to go us the copper treatment it seems to be the way that has the least amount of work. I was reading that only Seachem ammonia test kits work in a copper treatment tank. Is that true? Can I use my API ammonia tester?
.....

Copper may be the least amount of work, but it's the most dangerous method of treating marine ich to fish, and to a lesser extend, to human.
I would suggest you looking up tank transfer method (TTM) for treating marine ich.
Instead of a test kit for ammonia, get some seachem ammonia badge. it's a sticky thing that you stick in the tank under water and it can show you the level of ammonia (approximately) so you don't have to test it constantly.
Another benefit of using TTM is that you can use ammonia binder (like prime) to reduce ammonia to a lesser toxic form. You can not use such binder in water that has copper. It makes copper more toxic.
Good luck.

[reefwithareefer]

In my research of using a UV sterilizer, I found that there was some misunderstanding of how it worked etc etc.
I talked to the manufacturer and was told that depending on the amount of water flow run through it, made the difference on what the UV killed. If it ran too little of water it killed many good things that help a tank, but if you are looking to kill just 'parasites", bacteria, ich etc etc you need to run alot of water through it.

I have a 40 watt Aquaviolet and was told to run 900GPH to kill just the "bad Stuff, and only 600 gph, will kill everything, including the good things. I believe the numbers I quoted are correct, but has been awhile since I set it all up, but talk to your manufacturer to get right info. http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/sites...20UV%20FAQ.pdf

The belief is that you just run water thru it and all is good. This is not the case, as per Aquaviolets, tech guy, whose info was provided to me verbally.

[mihaivapler]

Originally Posted by reefwithareefer

In my research of using a UV sterilizer, I found that there was some misunderstanding of how it worked etc etc.
I talked to the manufacturer and was told that depending on the amount of water flow run through it, made the difference on what the UV killed. If it ran too little of water it killed many good things that help a tank, but if you are looking to kill just 'parasites", bacteria, ich etc etc you need to run alot of water through it.

I have a 40 watt Aquaviolet and was told to run 900GPH to kill just the "bad Stuff, and only 600 gph, will kill everything, including the good things. I believe the numbers I quoted are correct, but has been awhile since I set it all up, but talk to your manufacturer to get right info. http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/sites...20UV%20FAQ.pdf

The belief is that you just run water thru it and all is good. This is not the case, as per Aquaviolets, tech guy, whose info was provided to me verbally.

I have 55w Uv sterilizer on my tank and I have no problem.I have 4 blue tangs and they are all happy and never had any issues with ich,so I think the uv light is a very good prevention.

[sdeschutter]

I have 55w Uv sterilizer on my tank and I have no problem.I have 4 blue tangs and they are all happy and never had any issues with ich,so I think the uv light is a very good prevention.

Do you have corals in your tanks? If so what type? I'm wondering if the UV effects corals.

[mihaivapler]

Originally Posted by sdeschutter

Do you have corals in your tanks? If so what type? I'm wondering if the UV effects corals.

Yes I have.I have mushrooms,lps(hammer, octospawn, candy cane,alveopora, elegance coral,plate coral) and sps(birdnest, acropora,catpaw poci) and they are all healthy growing really nice,except for some sps,some of them they grow very slow but I would blame the lights for that,have led lights.I have them for 2 years now and I hado the uv on for about a year and I didn't notice no difference on my corals after I set it up.I think most off the fears about uv is not true, it doesn't kill the good bacteria,this bacteria lives on rock surface and just a small amount free swimming.I have it It works perfectly for me I have no issue with my fish, they never get sick and I have about 10 tangs wich are known for getting ich super fast but since I have the uv is disease free

[sdeschutter]

Yes I have.I have mushrooms,lps(hammer, octospawn, candy cane,alveopora, elegance coral,plate coral) and sps(birdnest, acropora,catpaw poci) and they are all healthy growing really nice,except for some sps,some of them they grow very slow but I would blame the lights for that,have led lights.I have them for 2 years now and I hado the uv on for about a year and I didn't notice no difference on my corals after I set it up.I think most off the fears about uv is not true, it doesn't kill the good bacteria,this bacteria lives on rock surface and just a small amount free swimming.I have it It works perfectly for me I have no issue with my fish, they never get sick and I have about 10 tangs wich are known for getting ich super fast but since I have the uv is disease free

I'm happy to hear that. I think a UV may be one of my next purchases.

Got my first quarantine tank set up I'm just making sure that the parameters are the same as my display tank salinity temperature and then I will start putting the fish in. I got some PVC elbows and now I have my trap in my display tank to try to catch these fish. Soon as I put the trap in the DT with food in it the shrimp was in there within five seconds. The fish are starting to get curious and you can see them getting closer and closer to the trap but I haven't got one yet. It's been a half hour.

Btw I decided to go with the tank transfer method after all. After all the reading I've done I just feel that that's the safest and easiest. So I will be switching the fish to a different tank with same water parameters every three days for six transfers.