#21
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Quote:
For GFCI protection on a tank, I don't understand why someone wouldn't. It only takes 10 milliamps to kill you. Typically, our dry skin has enough resistance that 120V will not conduct 10 milliamps. Higher voltages, 240 to 600 can and will hold you so you can't let go. The Saltwater in our tanks, being so conductive, will lessen the resistance of our skin and make the 120v in our homes so much more dangerous. Cheaply made power bars (most are cheap) do not have to follow the same electrical codes as an electrician. They have to follow a manufactures code for CSA/ULC and get away with smaller wires due to less distance run. That being said, when they burn up it's due resistance in the connection. Dirty/corroded plugs create resistance and heat, it would only take 2ohms resistance to create a little 50w heater in that plug. As the heats builds so does the resistance and the problem gets worse. Also, now there is a voltage loss at the receptacle. No normal breaker or GFI will catch this in time. I went and checked all my plugs when I read this thread. If you don't like power bars, I just made my own with one GFCI receptacle protecting a few commercial grade receptacles. Higher grade receptacles have larger contacts inside and hold tighter. |
#22
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I should clarify my GFCI thoughts. Safer is always better but people should know whether or not things are required. I do not run the GFCI's on my tank but also have provided a proper grounding path for voltage in my system. Additionally all of the submerged electrical devices in my system are generally off for any tank work more involved than feeding or adding livestock.
Also I love the DIY powerbar option Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Electromagician by day, Reefer by night. |
#23
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How about AMERICAN DJ PC-100A 19" Rack Light Power Distribution Center?
Any thoughts? http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/AMERICAN-...item51b1c7a5b2 |