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  #21  
Old 11-16-2010, 02:35 AM
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I use Coral Snow religously and it did nothing with my cyano. It does, however, help, as my skimmer goes into high gear, pulling out lots of junk after I add it.
I used chemiclean to get rid of my cyano and was really happy with it. Follow the directions and in about 7 - 10 days it will be gone and your skimmer can go back on line.
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  #22  
Old 11-16-2010, 03:51 AM
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I think I've found a solution... might have to wait a while though http://reefbuilders.com/2010/11/15/l...ms/#more-26474
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  #23  
Old 11-16-2010, 04:01 AM
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ok......lets start thinking in a different direction here....lets stop trying to "band aid" the problem and try to figure out whats causing the problem.....cyano is caused by 1 of three things.......an excess of nutrients (so we look at our bio-load and what and how much we are feeding)......old bulbs (as bulbs burn the drop in "K" value, becoming closer to that of natural sunlight).....and lack of flow (which can be corrected by either re-directing or adding more flow)....

CS is not a cure all when it comes to cyano or diatoms, but it does seem to help (for me anyway) some of the other benifits are as stated, water clrity and also it acts as a biding agent for foods that will either be skimmed out or assimilated (KZs words),,,,,I try to steer people away from "chemical" solutions before trying to figure out whats causing it
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  #24  
Old 11-16-2010, 04:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishytime View Post
ok......lets start thinking in a different direction here....lets stop trying to "band aid" the problem and try to figure out whats causing the problem.....cyano is caused by 1 of three things.......an excess of nutrients (so we look at our bio-load and what and how much we are feeding)......old bulbs (as bulbs burn the drop in "K" value, becoming closer to that of natural sunlight).....and lack of flow (which can be corrected by either re-directing or adding more flow)....

CS is not a cure all when it comes to cyano or diatoms, but it does seem to help (for me anyway) some of the other benifits are as stated, water clrity and also it acts as a biding agent for foods that will either be skimmed out or assimilated (KZs words),,,,,I try to steer people away from "chemical" solutions before trying to figure out whats causing it
I'd have to agree. I tried the coral snow with no effect, tried the 3 day black out that worked for a couple of weeks, but it still came back. I cut back on feeding, changed bulbs , dosed vinegar and added more flow, but the cyano wouldn't go away. I'm now convinced that it has to be my DSB as I hard a larger bioload before and had no problems, but I now have convict blenny's that stir my sand bed around a lot. Rather than looking to a chemical solution, I'd go through the steps fishytime has stated, or it is just going to keep coming back.
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  #25  
Old 11-16-2010, 05:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishytime View Post
ok......lets start thinking in a different direction here....lets stop trying to "band aid" the problem and try to figure out whats causing the problem.....cyano is caused by 1 of three things.......an excess of nutrients (so we look at our bio-load and what and how much we are feeding)......old bulbs (as bulbs burn the drop in "K" value, becoming closer to that of natural sunlight).....and lack of flow (which can be corrected by either re-directing or adding more flow)....

CS is not a cure all when it comes to cyano or diatoms, but it does seem to help (for me anyway) some of the other benifits are as stated, water clrity and also it acts as a biding agent for foods that will either be skimmed out or assimilated (KZs words),,,,,I try to steer people away from "chemical" solutions before trying to figure out whats causing it
That's the perplexing part, all of the things you have mentioned aren't a factor in my last outbreak. My Nitrates and Phosphates are zero (I run Biopellets and have been for months), my MH bulbs are Phoenix 14k about 2 months old running 8 hours per day, my T5's are New Gen running 12 hrs per day, I have more than enough flow in my 150 Gal with 2 MP40's at full power and two Koralia Evo 1400 pumps, since the outbreak I even installed my Tunze 6055 in the front just for the extra flow. I have also been moving my Evo's around to eliminate any dead spots. Trust me I have read everything I can find, and the common causes you mention have all been considered but these things are in check. I did have a controller fail and as a result overheated my tank and overdosed two part causing an awful swing in PH. I'm thinking the rapid change shocked the tank resulting in the bacteria bloom. If that is what caused it I think my biopellets picked up the nutrients because I have no N or P (I checked with both Salifert and Elos). I understand that what you are saying is correct but it doesn't explain my problem.
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  #26  
Old 11-16-2010, 05:42 AM
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Sorry medhatreefguy I'm not trying to hijack your post...really.
I did the Zeo thing with all the drippings, dosing, all the blue bottles you could want, whatever not much help. The Bio pellets are working for me, cyano is starting to disappear although my PO4 has been climbing!?
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Do you like the Hanna checker? I'm using an API kit and it's a P.I.T.A.
Yes I do like it cwatkins it works pretty damn good just you need to be clean with it and accurate; use the same vile and make sure its in the same place as when you zero it. The Hanna photometer was what told me that Zeo was not working, the nutrients where to high in my system.
PS you should seen what happen to my tank when I went from LED (solaris) to T5's "cyano city" blankets of it everywhere with brand new bulbs....
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Last edited by randallino; 11-16-2010 at 05:46 AM.
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  #27  
Old 11-16-2010, 05:05 PM
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Coral Snow is a great product...but I haven't had success with it as a cyano treatment.

When we first took over the store from it's previous owner, the display tank was in sad shape. Nearly every inch of the sandbed was covered in cyano. It was an old deep sandbed that had never seen adequate flow and was loaded with organic waste. I dosed it about 8 times with Chemi-Clean (which is normally a very effective product). It would put a small dent in it for a day, and then it would be back as strong as ever. What finally put the cyano down was treatments with ZEOzyme and ZEObak.

Chemi-clean I use first to get rid of the immediate symptoms. ZEOzyme and ZEObak help get rid of the excess organics problem. Of course, flow, protein skimming, feeding, nurient levels, also need to be examined.

Last edited by Blue World Aquariums; 11-16-2010 at 05:12 PM.
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  #28  
Old 11-16-2010, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpencerGS View Post
Coral Snow is a great product...but I haven't had success with it as a cyano treatment.

When we first took over the store from it's previous owner, the display tank was in sad shape. Nearly every inch of the sandbed was covered in cyano. It was an old deep sandbed that had never seen adequate flow and was loaded with organic waste. I dosed it about 8 times with Chemi-Clean (which is normally a very effective product). It would put a small dent in it for a day, and then it would be back as strong as ever. What finally put the cyano down was treatments with ZEOzyme and ZEObak.

Chemi-clean I use first to get rid of the immediate symptoms. ZEOzyme and ZEObak help get rid of the excess organics problem. Of course, flow, protein skimming, feeding, nurient levels, also need to be examined.


using coral snow and zeoback worked for me, between waterchanges and dosing every night it took 11 days to go from carpet of cyano to completely gone!!
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  #29  
Old 11-17-2010, 02:58 AM
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my cyano comes and goes every couple weeks...i know its ugly and a pain but i have kind of learned to live with it..haha.. all params are in check and i still get it...i do have sleeper gobies that do pick up sand all the time and they may be part of the cause..hmm
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  #30  
Old 11-17-2010, 03:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishytime View Post
ok......lets start thinking in a different direction here....lets stop trying to "band aid" the problem and try to figure out whats causing the problem.....cyano is caused by 1 of three things.......an excess of nutrients (so we look at our bio-load and what and how much we are feeding)......old bulbs (as bulbs burn the drop in "K" value, becoming closer to that of natural sunlight).....and lack of flow (which can be corrected by either re-directing or adding more flow)....

CS is not a cure all when it comes to cyano or diatoms, but it does seem to help (for me anyway) some of the other benifits are as stated, water clrity and also it acts as a biding agent for foods that will either be skimmed out or assimilated (KZs words),,,,,I try to steer people away from "chemical" solutions before trying to figure out whats causing it
+1 on Dougs comments, I was going to post this, but you beat me to it.
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Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO)
Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish
Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk
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