Thread: Ozone Reactor
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Old 11-19-2003, 01:05 AM
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Default Ozone Reactor

Well I was surfing around and came across this DIY Ozone Reactor and wondered if anyone was currently using one or had built one themselves ...


O3 (Ozone Reactor) DIY

In reef aquariums a high ORP (Oxygen Redox Potential) is desired. This level is generally 380-450 mV. One way to raise the ORP is to add Ozone (O3) to the aquarium water. Ozone is powerful and can kill invertebrates so use of carbon filtration directly after ozone reactor is required. Control of the ozone can be easy with an ORP controller.

PLEASE NOTE: YOU MUST FILTER OUT THE OZONE PUT INTO EITHER A PROTEIN SKIMMER OR IN THIS CASE A OZONE REACTOR. THIS IS ACCOMPLISHED BY FILLTERING THE EFFLUENT (OUTPUT) WATER WITH ACTIVATED CARBON. (you can easily do this by having the output water from the ozone reactor flowing into a carbon cup or canister.)

This DIY O3 ozone reactor will give you Reef-Like water conditions and high water quality..

Many of you who do not have Reef Tanks want to keep a few corals in a predominately fish tank loaded with live rock or undergravel filters. This DIY is ideal by boosting the O3 level and increasing the purity of the water (ORP) and overall water quality as found on the natural reefs.

Materials:

Canister material = acrylic cell-cast cylinder 1/8" wall thickness.
Canister diameter 3 to 4" Canister Height 18 to 24"
Buy scrap 1/2" acrylic for bottom plate
Buy scrap 1/4" acrylic for top lid
Buy 1/2" PVC pipe for input/output runs. 1 pc. 18" or 24" depending on height of Canister. 2nd piece 6".

Buy 1-2 boxes of mini-bio balls. 3/4 gal should fill the canister for a 3" dia. 18" tall canister while 1 to 1-1/4 gal should fill the canister for a 4" dia. 24" tall canister.
Buy a Tetra Luft Pump or similar. Best choice for this pump has HP and is designed for rugged and prolonged use.
Buy 1/4" airline tubing
Buy 5/8" tubing for input/output water lines.
Buy Rio 1700 or similar pump/powerhead. Please don't use a valve on the pump output (run it wide open).
Optional - Media Platform container system. If used, buy eggcrate material (kind you find in hardware store for light fixtures) and cut it to fit within the canister body. You may need to support it off the bottom of the canister by using 3 pieces of Schedule 40 PVC couplings 3/4" or pipe cut to 3/4". Also cut a hole through the eggcrate where the 1/2" PVC pill will pass through
Ozonizer - 2 types available. UV type and corona discharge (high-voltage). corona discharge requires use of air-dryers.
Carbon cup or similar device to filter out the ozone from the output of this DIY Ozone Reactor.
Ok here is the diagram which will help you in understanding and construction..




A = Air in from air pump-Ozonizer, using an adjustable valve.
B = Water coming in ,1/2" PVC pipe, from sump or aquarium, via a small submersible water pump (Rio or similar).
C = Water coming out ,1/2" PVC pipe, back to carbon filtration before going to aquarium or sump.
D = 1/4" scrap acrylic glued to make a lid. Use acrylic cement or a bonding agent meant for acrylic.
E = Optional - Eggcrate for bio-ball support. Cut to fit into canister. Bottom eggcrate is supported off bottom using three 3/4" PVC couplings or cutting three 3/4" PVC pipe to a length of 1 to 2". Be sure to cut a hole in eggcrate for "C" output 1/2" PVC pipe to fit through.
F = 1/2" thick acrylic scrap glued or bonded to bottom of canister. Used as a base for canister to fit on. Again use acrylic cement or a bonding agent meant for acrylic.
G = Water reservoir. Maintain a level of 2-3" deep by adjusting air valve, not the water flow. By adjusting the air valve, this will adjust the air pressure in the canister reactor. The more the air pressure, the lower the water depth in the bottom. Of course this works in reverse.
H = BioBalls, Bio,Pak, BioKaskade, etc. Any plastic media will work here. Shotgun shell wadding (not colored) will also work. The ideas here is to break up the water and allow a thin film of water or a large surface area of water to be "aerated or "air-injected".
I = Highly saturated Ozone rich water returning to carbon filtration before going to sump or aquarium. Ozone saturation will also occur in the Bio-Media (Bio-Ball) area of the reactor.
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