A couple kinks to still work out there for sure. Sounds like that pump sure pushes a lot of water, I know when I ran the two wavelines I had to cut out the weir teeth to handle the flow properly, but at the time concept was cutting pretty narrow teeth. You can add risers in the overflow but they shouldn't prevent the the tank from draining to overflow weir height, only prevent the overflow box from draining and control the overflow box water level to prevent trickling noise. If the teeth is holding back that much water they may be too restrictive. Basically you should try and limit the tank to 1" water level drop during shut down. Usually 2" is actually my go by number but with large tanks and small sumps that's not usually possible. With 1" you need space for 3456 cubic inches in the sump which means if the sump is 48" x 16" you need 4.5" of extra space above running water level. Now if you're seeing a 2" that's 9.5" in the sump needed which isn't going to happen.
I don't see a check valve on the return, that's potentially a way of reducing some back flow if it's draining lower than weir height, if not then not worth while.
The problem with the baffle is it really shouldn't be a baffle to be honest, one of those things that got lost in translation, not shown on drawing. I'm use to building these myself out of acrylic so most of the time all the details aren't shown. The baffle should be more of a screen, just to protect the pump, like mine:
