[Myka]

Originally Posted by raoul duke

2. Remove existing media from my fluval fx5 canister filter, clean and dry it, replace with all new media (floss, inert porcelein, carbon maybe?) Is it a good idea to keep the mechanical filtration at all?

I would not use the FX5 at all. Since you will have a sump and skimmer you will have all the filtration you need right there. The biggest filtration lesson to learn when moving from freshwater to saltwater is that in freshwater you want tonnes of biological filtration to process ammonia asap, and in saltwater you want to remove the organics before they breakdown into ammonia. That means you're best off with no biological filtration (other than the live rock). The only time a person would want biological filtration is when tanks are set up with no live rock (like fish only systems with plastic decorations).

3. Install sump, skimmer, return pump, powerheads

Which skimmer/model are you looking at buying? For your fish marine tank, I would suggest you buy a good quality skimmer as this will really help you out by removing organics before they breakdown. I've seen many newbies get frustrated by algae issues and leave the hobby when a good quality skimmer (and a PhosBan reactor) could have made a big difference for them. The difference between a poor skimmer and an ok skimmer is little. The difference between a good skimmer and a great skimmer is also little. The difference between a poor/ok skimmer and a good/great skimmer is HUGE.

Return pump optimal flow is 6.1x the entire volume of water. This means that 99+% of the systems' volume will pass through the sump in 24 hours. Flow through the sump faster than about 10x will often cause microbubbles from the skimmer to make it into the display tank which is unsightly and can irritate corals.

Powerhead flow varies by what types of animals you want to keep, and is calculated by the display tank volume only (don't include sump volume). Fish only around 10x turnover, softies and LPS 10-25x turnover, and SPS 25-100+ times turnover. This is just a rough guide to help you out.

Consider adding a couple filter socks that you change out 1-2 times per week that will help polish the water. They are machine washable (no soap, just use hot water/bleach/baking soda if you want), and last several years. They need to be changed often as mentioned or they will become biological media.

Also consider starting right off the bat (after the cycle is over) with a PhosBan reactor and some GFO (granular ferric oxide). GFO absorbs phosphate which is one of the main fuels for algae (nitrate also fuels algae). A GFO setup is relatively cheap, and the benefits are great. Choosing a compatible and appropriate algae eating fish to your stocking plans is also a wise idea.

4. Fill tank, mix salt, start up all the equipment, check consistency of temp, gravity, etc.

I would suggest you buy a refractometer (not a hydrometer which is notoriously inaccurate) and calibration solution (which is cheap). I have had some poor calibration come from using distilled water.

5. Add 1 pound of live rock per gallon (or a mixture of live and base rock to be seeded?) and a liquid bacterial starter (whats that stuff called again?)

I think if you start with 0.5-0.75 pounds per gallon that might be a better place to start from. You can always add a bit more if you choose. When you place the rock, place it on the bottom glass, and set the sand around it so that digging fish can't undermine the rock and cause an avalanche (potentially break the glass too!). Try to keep the rock off the side and back glass panes as this helps you get much better flow in the tank (poor flow = algae troubles often). Don't worry about bacteria starters...the rock you just bought has all the bacteria you will need.

I don't like base rock (often full of phosphate, often poor density). All that money you just saved by buying 0.5 lbs/gal means you don't have to buy base rock anymore!

6. If everything's cool after a week or two, start by adding one or two hardy, inexpensive fish (Chromis or Damsels)

Absolutely not. If you buy used rock from another reefer it will be much cheaper and your tank will cycle much faster, but you may inherit many troubles (algae, Aiptasia, Majano, crabs, etc). If you buy "new" rock from the LFS it may take quite a bit longer to cycle if the rock is really fresh (which is actually good). Be prepared that it may take 4-6 weeks to cycle the tank.

Do not add any livestock to the tank until ammonia is undetectable for at least a few days, better to wait a week. Nitrite is not toxic in saltwater like it is in freshwater, so it is not important, but to be on the safe side, you could wait until nitrite is also undetectable. You should also do a 20-25% waterchange once the cycle is complete before adding livestock. After the waterchange, re-test ammonia to double check. The API kit is cheap and works well.

I suggest you leave the lights off until the cycle is complete and do large waterchanges (50% if needed) if ammonia gets above 1-2 ppm since this will kill off a bunch of cool critters on the rock, and will also prolong cycling if ammonia gets up real high. Salt gets pricey though, so it's perfectly fine to not do any waterchanges until after the cycle is complete.

Does this make sense? I Should be able to complete 1-5 over a couple of days yes?

Steps 1-5 can be made as quickly as you want/can do. Step 6 will take the most time, and you will need a lot of patience. If you don't have the patience to wait for the cycle to complete before adding livestock, then saltwater aquaria is not the hobby for you!