[mike31154]

If not mistaken any power bar, no matter what 'quality' or flavour is only intended for 'temporary' use. In other words, not providing power 24/7 to an electrical device like most of them are, not only for our hobby, but generally. So this means you really should have a wall receptacle for any item that's plugged in and powered up permanently. Of course this is not practical since very few people have as many wall receptacles as needed for all the stuff used on our tanks. And a wall receptacle may fail just like an outlet on a power bar if moisture gets in there or if there's a manufacturing defect, or if it's overloaded, etc. etc.

So yeah, in the end it's a bit of the luck of the draw as to when & how these things may fail. To minimize the hazard there are a few things you can do:

Have drip loops on equipment power cords & keep outlets/receptacles as far away from the water as practicable;

Use moisture proof boxes & covers on anything near your tank. Many outdoor type receptacles are a good option;

Use GFCI devices for added safety;

Keep circuit loads reasonable & the number of power bars to a minimum. Orient the outlets on power bars facing down or at least horizontal;

Minimize the number of items with cords actually submersed in your tank. Low voltage power heads & external return pumps come to mind. Not much you can do about heaters, but try not to fully submerse the thing, control head & all, even though the manufacturer may call it 'fully submersible'. Any cord in the water increases the potential of water wicking it's way along the cord to the sparky parts. And wicking works uphill as well, so your drip loop may only be a temporary stop;

Lastly, here's one that's actually pretty easy... next time you're admiring your tank, have a quick look at all the plugs etc. for their condition. Sort of a maintenance schedule for your powered stuff. You do the same on a regular basis for your car (I think), so why not for the electrics on your tank?