As Cal stir mentioned, if you can find a socket that will fit the pin configuration, it would be best to solder one of those in there after removing the original chip & then you have a plug & play option for the new chip. Depending on the price of the new RAM chip, you may not wish to risk cooking it while soldering if you have minimal experience soldering delicate electronics. Might be an idea to try the procedure on scrap components first if you have something like that kicking around. If not & you have a burnt out CFL bulb, crack open the base, there's a nice little PCB in there with tiny components you can practice on. Just take care you don't break the bulb & release the mercury (albeit small amount) in there.
What type of soldering iron do you have, is it adjustable & what tip is on it? You'll need a fine tip to avoid overheating adjacent pins & the board while soldering. You should also use a heatsink on the pin you're soldering/de-soldering. There are springloaded clip-on heatsinks available that you can attach to the pin you're soldering between the chip body and the solder joint.
Also make sure you have some flux on hand. This will come in handy for de-soldering. Put some flux on to the wick and it will help draw the solder up into it. I would recommend getting a 'solder sucker'. This is a small spring loaded plunger type tool that you can activate with one hand while applying heat to the solder joint with the iron in the other hand. It will suck the solder up with the push of a button. This procedure is quicker than using the wick, thus protecting the old chip should you wish to use it elsewhere. Once the old chip is removed, you can use the flux & wick to clean up all the holes for the new component. I don't know anything about an acid bath, I think if you clean up the area with flux & wick, you should be fine. Less hazardous than messing with acid as well, although most flux is corrosive as well, so wipe the area well with a paper towel when done, maybe use a bit of alcohol on the paper towel. Basically what you're doing is removing as much residual flux (corrosive) as possible. I think the acid bath may be the procedure used to actually produce the PCB, that is, dissolve all the copper except for the runs designed to create the circuit on the board.
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