Quote:
Originally Posted by Nano
play with your white balance, and ISO sensitivity as well, to find a setting you like, its really trial and error, I think I shoot, around 800-1600 ISO and white balance is manually set prior to shooting. shoot the pictures in the largest format you can so you can scale them down slightly afterwards, so they are a bit more crisp
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White Balance is the hardest part of taking a reef tank picture. It is so far into the blue that the camera may not even be able to go far enough, which means fixing it the rest of the way in post processing.
Always take pictures in the largest format the camera can, storage is cheap.
No reason to set your ISO at 800-1600, all you are doing is adding noise to the image. A reef tank has boat loads of light, you should be able to get a fast enough shutter speed to get a clear image via a tripod.
ISO 400 at most if you have a lower quality lens.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cav~firez22
I wouldnt bother with UV, but definatly get a good Polorized filter. and as for whit balance, if you shoot in raw, then dont worry about it, do all your adjustments in photoshop or lightroom
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I agree, don't bother with a UV, unless you are taking pictures above 6500 feet you'll never see the difference. And some say to protect the lens, but keep in mind you are degrading the image with every piece of glass you put in front of it. And an impact that wouldn't mark your lens would shatter the UV filter and now you have lots of glass to scratch the lens, glass scratches glass easy.
A polarizing filter is great to have if you shoot outdoors with water or sky in the image. But for a fish tank... not so useful.
You almost always have to do post processing.