Strange. I just tested my RO/DI water and it had a TDS of 40. Two weeks ago, it was 2. I'll flush the RO membrane for 30 minutes and test it again.
This is the most important step you can take to control your problems, flushing the filter is fine but replace the DI canister if you cannot get it to zero, infact you should replace all filters at least once a year.
2. - Test your PO4 level, if higher than .05 you will have to run GFO or equvilant until lower than .05 otherwise the Zeo method won't work.
I don't actually have a PO4 test kit. I know, bad reefer. Maybe it's time.
It is REALLY time to know what this level is at, it must be below .05 but preferably lower. If above run some GFO in a Phosban reactor until it drops.
3. - Your DKH must be between 6.5 and 8 nothing higher (not sure of the science behind this but it is important! If using Seachem Reef Salt DKH should be at about 9.3.
I just tested my water: dKH=6.4, Ca=440, Mg=1220.
This is good but raise your MAG to 1325 or better.
4. - Check how old your lights are, replace if older than recommended.
I just replaced 5 of my T5 bulbs a few weeks ago. The other three are less than 2 months old.
Excellent
5. - Up your water change schedule if you can, I do about 5% or so a week.
I do 10% every week-week and a half.
Excellent! But realize that your new saltwater is using that substandard RO/DI water. Adding fuel to the fire no doubt.
6. - reduce your photo period if on for longer than 8 hours (halides)
I only run HO T5's (8x39w). Four come on at 10:30am, the other four at 11:00am....then off again at 10:30pm and 11:00pm.
Tune your photoperiod down to 8 hrs, have the lights come on at 12:30 and 1:00pm instead. This will make a differance.
7. - lower your temp if above 82, the slime algae on the glass likes warm water. My tank runs at about 79-80.
Unorthodox, I know, but I don't use a heater in my tank, lol. They make me very nervous, and my apartment is never cold (I have nice floor heating).
Hmm, okay. The last this you want is swings in temp, buy yourself a good heater if it drops more than a few degrees by morning. Ebo Jagor/Marineland Stealth...
9. - Change Carbon if more than 30 days old. run slightly more if possible.
I'm using Aqua Connect Silicarbon, changed it after 5 weeks.
Change once every 30 days, use regular high grade Carbon, by using the silicarbon you may be competing with the bacteria for something they may need to metabolize the phosphate or other nutrients in your tank that no doubt attribute to the algae film, hair algae, etc..
Could you please tell me your dosing schedule?
How much Zeolite stones your are running .75L
This is good, change every 6 weekss or so, follow the instructions once changed.
How much Carbon and wheather you are you using a reactor for the Carbon or running it in a filter sock passivly 3/4 C Aqua Connect Silicarb, run passively in a filter sock.
Explained above re; carbon
You complete dosing schedule and what ZEO elements you are using
ZEOback = 2 drop twice a week, ZEOfood = 2 drops twice a week, ZEOstart = 0.4 ml daily.
Try dosing three drops bak 2x per week / zeofood 1 drop 3x per week / zeostart .2ml 2x per week. Stop the Zeostart until the film on glass improves then start again as recommended.
The salt you are using Kent
Okay
The flow rate through your ZEO reactor Somewhere between 50-75gph, alternating three hours on, three hours off.
Up the flow rate to 75-100 GPH keeping the on/off schedule
your Zeolite rock exchange schedule I've only exchanged it once, after 4 weeks; kept 15%-ish to seed new Zeolites.
As above
I really think these things will work for you, I would recommend this before attempting the VsV method.
__________________
~Drew
55G Mixed Reef * 15G Sump * Deltec MCE 600 Skimmer * Tek 8x39W HO T5 * Zeovit * Vortech MP40W
Millions long for immortality who do not know what to do with themselves on a rainy Sunday afternoon. ~S. Ertz