cycling base rock question...
 

if i decide to cycle some base rock all i need is a powerhead on it lots of water changes and eventually salt water.......

can i use the same container that i typically store my RO water in? (aka a plastic garbage pail) or would i need to get another bucket?

Is the rock dry or live? if its live you need to cycle it in salt water. Power head and heater will be required - it will cycle faster if the temp is low to mid 80's. No light needed.

its dry rock

as eco reefer said cure it in saltwater with a heater and powerhead fairly warm as it gets the bacteria growing quickly

The idea behind the cycling of base rock will depend on the type of rock - if its dry rock that has dead organics on/in it (dry Fiji etc) then the cycle is to prevent the dead organics from causing an ammonia spike when u put it in a display tank. If it is clean dry rock (like Reefer Rock) then the cycle is to get enough bacteria to colonize the surface of the rock so that when you add the rock to a tank it can deal with the bio load of that tank.

Equipment Required:

* Large Rubbermaid type garbage bin (large enough to hold the rock)
* Source of Organic Waste (uncooked raw shrimp if the rock is clean)
* Artificial Sea Water (saltwater)
* Submersible Heater
* Power Head or Airstone

Cycling Instructions:

1. Stack rock into the large bin
2. Add freshly mixed saltwater so the water level is above the rock by a few inches - Specific gravity of 1.021 to 1.025
3. Install the heater and set it to 28'C (82'F) - The beneficial bacterial multiply quicker at higher temp's thus cycling faster
4. Install the power head or airstone to provide good water circulation - The airstone needs to be large enough to provide good circulation
5. Add a piece of 'live' rock from an established aquarium and place in the large bin (not required but will provide a good seed source of bacteria and potentially quicken the cycle)
6. Keep bin in a dimly lit area - This will prevent nuisance algae blooms from occurring
7. Add a source of organic waste if the rock is clean - an uncooked raw shrimp is ideal (if cycling rock like dry Fiji then no organics are needed as it should be full of it)
8. Test the water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels every few days - If the ammonia and nitrite levels have stabilized at 0 after an initial spike the rock has completed the cycle and is ready to be installed in your display tank

It can take from 20-45 days :)

You need to be careful about the water changes though - changing water too often or when not needed will cause the cycle to take longer then needed.

Hope this helps.

I just finished doing just what you are asking about. I had about 65 lbs of clean, dead rock and bought one nice piece of live rock. My live rock had nice shape, good coraline algea and no obvious pests.
I did the cycle in my display tank with heaters and a couple of powerheads. I kept the temp at 80, and fed the tank with fish food about once a week. I tested for ammonia, nitrate and nitrite once a week to make sure things were progressing. After about 6 weeks, all three parameters were down to 0.
About half way through, I hooked up my sump and started running my skimmer and some carbon and phosphate media. As a result, I got a really good cycle, with minimal algea growth. I've now added a CUC and my first three fish, and everyone is happy.

You should be adding one fish per month as you will create problems. Do not add any further fish for some time.

I'm actually adding fish about every three weeks. The first addition was two baby clowns, so they went in together, then a small yellow tang several weeks after that. Now I'll waiting a while before the next fish, a kole tang that has already been picked out.

Sorry, someguy, I added your quote by error.

I meant to point out generally that the biggest mistake reefers make when they set up is moving too fast. Patience is key.
Ya,I know, its hard to visit an LFS and see a cool fish and not buy it.