Newbie looking for feedback
 

Hey Canreef!

After reading through a couple threads online where someone new to reefkeeping has made mistakes on their build and could have avoided it by posting their plans to all the experts out there, I've decided I would do that. I hope this is the correct section to post this!

I'm currently in the process of shutting down my 180g African Cichlid tank and converting it to my first reef tank. My goal with this reef tank is a combination of SPS/LPS (I'm not a huge fan of most softies) and some fish. Fish stock I'm leaning towards a few tangs (I'm thinking an Achilles, Powder Blue and a Blonde Naso), some chromis or cardinals, a mandarin and maybe some others like firefish and/or flame angel. I'm also open to suggestions.

Equipment (planned):

• 180g Aqueon glass display tank that I plan to drill for external Beananimal overflow and possibly an internal calfo c2c for surface skimming
• 75g sump
• SRO3000INT or Vertex Alpha Cone 200 skimmer (I'm leaning towards the SRO to save money)
• Return pump to be decided
• TMC Vecton UV Sterilizer (I have this leftover from my Cichlid tank)
• Vertex GFO reactors
• Apex Gold Controller
• Apex DOS used for auto water change (1-2 gallons per day)
• Tunze Osmolator ATO
• BuildmyLED lights (2x12000k, 1xSuper Actinic to start)
• Maxspect Gyre XF150 x2 (I'm thinking 1 at each end alternating)
• Reeflo Barracuda Closed Loop system (details below)
• 2 part doser to be decided later but I'm leaning towards the Vertex Libra independent of the Apex
• RO/DI plumbed with a solenoid and float switch to keep my ATO reservoir topped off
• A UPS of some kind for the Apex and if possible separate battery backups for the Gyre's
• I may also add a bio pellet reactor of some kind at some point

The plan is to pick up some cabinets from Ikea (1 on each end of the tank) for storage and I'm building a custom stand with higher clearance than the Aqueon stand I have now. Inside one cabinet will have a water reservoir for ATO, RO/DI and whatever other various equipment that I need to store/hide. The other cabinet will have a second water reservoir for the Auto water change, Apex+modules, battery backups, etc. I'll plumb the auto water change to drain down my kitchen sink which is close by.

The closed loop system will be split into 2 returns and one line will go into a couple spray bars underneath my rocks and the other return will go into 4 outlets on a 4-way wavemaker (something like the oceans motion) so that only 2 outlets will be "open" at a time, alternating.

I do have some questions that maybe some of you can answer...

Should I plumb my UV inline with my overflow or sump return and slow my sump flow down to between 500-800gph?

I ask because this was my original plan. I thought it was most efficient to run close to the same flow rate through your sump as your skimmer can process and increase flowrate in the tank with other means (like the Gyre's or CLS). I just called BRS today about something and they said I should increase my sump flow to between 7-10 times my display volume and the SRO3000INT or Vertex Alpha can handle the increased flow rate and still do their job as efficiently. The person I spoke to thought it was better for nutrient export to have a higher flow rate through the sump (I'm guessing via reactors because the skimmer can only process so much so fast).

Is my CLS way overkill and is a Reeflo barracuda/hammerhead hybrid way too much pump for a setup like that?

At between 4590-6000 gph that is a lot of flow and I'm not sure I can drill so many holes in the back of my tank without affecting the structural integrity. In total I count 11 holes just for the overflow and CLS. I plan to have the sump return lines coming over the top so I don't need to drill those. If you're curious, the idea for the spray bars came from a thread over on TheReefTank forums about trying to prevent nutrient build up under your rocks. One person used some polypropylene sheets to create a platform for their rocks and ran a spray bar as well. It seems that many people have great success without this so I'm open to other ideas.

That's it for now... Sorry for the novel! lol

~ Sid

Read "the dearth of a spirited discussion" thread, should really motivate you to start a newbie thread lol. All your equipment looks good, your fish selection is gonna be tough for someone new to saltwater. Achilles is a hard tang to keep and a expensive first fish to lose, and a mandarin should only go into a mature tank with plenty of copepods

Ya I have read that about Mandarins so I was planning on waiting until my tank was around a year old before adding one. I've also read that tangs in general are difficult fish with a tendency to get ich. I will have a 40g breeder for a quarantine tank and I've done loads of research on the different tangs but will continue to read more (I'm a bit of a research junky lol). I hear the powder blue can be a pain as well.

No, whatever you do, don't read that thread! It is not for newbies!!! In fact the mods should restrict it, so that only those that have been on the thread for 5 years can access it.

This is a great hobby,... really!... Just go slow and do lots of reading (and understanding). Journals are often very interesting and can give you many ideas. There is not one right way to do it. Lots of room for your imagination and trying different things. Just don't set your expectations too high. There will be setbacks. But if you are willing to research and learn, you could have a future TOTM (you'll learn what that is later).

Good luck, and enjoy the journey.

Tangs are hit or miss. You can have perfect parameters and still get ich that's why I would get a cheaper one to start. And Tangs usually don't like other Tangs, so add them at the same time

If only I could :)

You're right, it is a great hobby, and a hell of a ride. Mostly, whatever you build will have issues that you'll correct in your next tank. Which will also not be right, and you'll fix those things in the next tank. Repeat lol

Tangs in general are fine. Achilles, you're likely tossing 300 bucks out the window. I'd guess 1 in 10 survive, and that's being optimistic. Powder blues, not far behind.

- UV makes the biopellets much less effective. Not recommended to run them together.
- Daily small WC is a waste of salt. Larger weekly or bi-weekly WC are much more effective.
- Don't skimp on a skimmer - if you want to save a few bucks find a used one rather than buying a cheaper one. If you're willing to put out the bucks for a Vertex Alpha, then just buy a Bubble King. :D
- Return flow should be 3-6x the total system volume. I like to be right around the 5-6x mark. If you're teeing off for reactors and such you'll need a bigger return obviously.
- An Achilles Tang will not be comfortable in a 180-gallon forever. Ask Marie. :D A 40-gallon tank is too small for a QT for it.
- Instead of spray bars I'd just use nozzles. Spray bars cut the flow down too much and take up too much space. Put the CL holes in the bottom pane, not the back, and point the nozzles towards the surface.

Closed loop? Well good for you, going retro and all!

Closed loops are the bomb. I'm not sure why they have left fashion. I'd have one on my tank if I had room under it for the pump and all the plumbing.