Quarantine Setup?
 

What is your quarantine setup like?

Strategy? Pictures? Chemicals? Treatments? Timeline?


... I have 480 net-gallons of water (700 gallons gross), between a FOWLR, SPS Reef, Frag tank, sump, water change tank, plumbing, etc - and I need to have something better than dumb luck ...


What do you do?
- Do you have any dips that you have had successfully beat AEFW before it hits your system? (sorry Brad) and/or Red Bugs (I've used Interceptor successfully, but it's expensive and I'd rather hit it before the main system).
- Do you quarantine fish for X weeks? Coral?
- Throw out coral that is infected?

What's your strategy/experience?

For fish you should just get the biggest tank you can fit, or at least one that you are comfortable keeping your largest fish in for 2-3 months max depending on problems.

I use a 55g
http://andrewastro.smugmug.com/Other...o%285%29-L.jpg

Jeabo WP 40, so I can have a full on wave blowing water out of the tank for Achillies tang or turn it down for another fish. I actually like to pre QT fish like this where as I put him in my frag tank first, got him eating good, treated with prazipro for flukes (reef safe treatment but I still wouldn't do it in DT) then transfer to the 55g where he was treated with copper. I seeded the sponge from my DT tank but the QT tank still went through a cycle. Originally I was changing water every few days, but haven't had to change for close to 2 months other then for the purpose of removing the copper. I use an ammonia alert badge since ammonia test kits won't work with copper. Only other equipment is a heater and cheap thermometer even if the temp isn't exactly right I know it's stable.



I'm actually going to probably take this tank down but only due to the fact I will be moving soon it will eventually be setup again. If there are any must have fish before the move I will do a similar setup in a 10g.

I don't but should QT corals especially since I have the means. I just dip them and put them in. Coral RX.

S'ok :) RPS (amoong other dips)kills AEFW on frags pretty easily. The issue is the eggs. Always cut new acros off the plug or base then mount in tank. Nothing (other than bleach) kills the eggs.

For larger pieces, eggs could be between branches. Anything suspect goes in the garbage. Better to start with smaller pieces that you can be sure about. If you get a frag in the dip, if it has worms, they'll be obvious.
Red bugs will also die with RPS, but even if you miss some, it's not the end of the world (or tank).

Fish, for me, always get treated with CP, unless I'm buying a fish I've known for a long time. Mostly, I don't buy fish anymore.

I have a 40g and a 30g tank. 30 is for corals and or fish, no meds in that tank. 40 is for fish and meds if needed. One week (ish) for corals, depends on type, where they came from. I try and dip them daily or every other day for that week. Pick / scrape every thing else living on them off them and the mount. Should just remount things but to busy. Fish are six weeks in QT, prazo for the first week and other meds if needed after that.

I purchased frags from Snappy, a trusted source so for those I just dipped and straight into tank.

For fish i have a Tank transfer set up, 2 20gallon tanks 2 separate everything heater, pump, PVC hiding places, HOB filter, (sand box if there are wrasses) Ammonia badge.

And usually do Prazipro treatment after.

For corals careful inspection dips usually only buy small frags (mostly cause I'm cheap but i do like growing stuff from small) and for the most part i take it off the base but not a habit


http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/...ps50ca6704.jpg

Heres my last round of QT (and no the leopard didn't make it through dam finicky fish)
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/...ps14b1ab9b.jpg



After having ich once i never want to go through it again should had this when i started