Phosphate Reduction
 

By far the best phosphate remover I've used so far is FOZ DOWN. It's a product from TimT I believe. Just a few drops every other day and it'll even get rid of that nasty red fuzzy algae that almost nothing eats (except Mexican Turbos). I LOVE it.

When I used the other phosphate remover media, I often forget to change it out often enough. With Foz Down, I just add drops as part of my routine.

Anthony

I'm just about to experiment with NitraGuard tomorrow. Supposedly reduces both Phosphate and Nitrate. Will let you know how it goes.

Where can I get Foz Down?

Please do! I need something to work with :smile:

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...t=80583&page=2

Here's a link to a thread about Foz Down.

Monocus (Bill) may be able to get some to you or contact Tim.

If I were you, I would get a second test on that PO4 with a different kit just to confirm. PO4 at 2.0 ppm is unusually high for a reef tank. I don't usually see it that high even in poorly maintained, overstocked tanks.

Either way, Lanthanum chloride products like Foz Down and others are a good option when PO4 is that high because it's usually cheaper and the rocks and sand will leach PO4 for quite awhile. Some products are much more concentrated than other products, so follow directions closely until you know how much a dose will affect your tank. If you lower PO4 too quickly you will surely cause STN or even RTN. Some people say some fish are sensitive to LC, but I haven't seen it myself. I do a bunch of small doses though instead of big ones.

GFO is tried and true. You can use it in a bag. I find if you put the bag in the overflow near the drain or under the teeth so the water falls on it it will work better. It also works better if you gently manipulate the bag a little bit (best description I can come up with lol) a couple times a week. Reactor is the best bet though, but be careful about sucking PO4 out too fast too!

Any bacteria-based systems like NOPOX, biopellets, etc will not affect PO4 enough for you to get ahead at 2.0 ppm, so I wouldn't consider that an option. What is NO3 at?

Some other things to consider...pellet and flake foods as well as seaweed and high-protein frozen foods are all high in phosphorus. Avoid anything with bones in it such as Silversides (for anemones) as bones are very high in phosphorus. Plain, frozen Brine Shrimp are one of the lowest phosphorus foods you could pick, though it is also lower in nutrition, so it's best to not be the sole source of food.

http://www.oceanfreshaquarium.com/foz-down.html lists LFS's that carry Foz-Down. The site does say that you can contact them directly if need be.

lol.... manipulate the bag...

I will definitely retest once I get home on Sunday. I realized that most of my CUC have gone missing since the initital setup. I was feeding 2 PE mysis frozen cubes and 2 PE Calunus cubes (Lots of fish). I'm thinking back... I was feeding the sun coral heavily with Eco eggs and mysis. This may have contributed to higher then normal phosphates.

I'm starting to doubt the API test for phosphate though as 2ppm seems really high. Nothing worse then having to wait until your back from vacation to deal with the tank.

As per my comment in another thread.

Get a Hanna Phosphorus Checker (HC - HI736) for Phosphate (take the result, multiple by 3.066, then divide by 1000). This is the most accurate tester for Phosphate...

oh, and also rinse the mysis after defrosting, and discard the liquid.

...and pretty much everything Mindy said too, lol!