Tank Ro/di & Drinking Water
 

I've finally gotten around to installing the water tap in the kitchen and I've hit an obstacle in plumbing it into my RO arrangment.
The 3 gallon reservoir which accompanied the system is simply "T'd" at the output end of the system, correct me here if I'm wrong. This vessel simply supplies a limited volume of drinking water.
I am currently feeding two reservoirs for the aquarium from the RO unit, one for making saltwater, the other is a gravity fed evap. make-up reservoir. A float valve is installed in both reservoirs as well as the gravity fed sump.

If I install the kitchen reservoir with the tanks reservoirs, the limited volume of water for drinking will be shared with the aquarium, correct? This will create a problem as I have the supply water for the RO/DI unit on an electronic valve. It is a simple garden variety timer with adapters on the garden hose fittings. Maybe I'm paranoid but the back up systems have back up systems. The main reason for a timer though is the RO unit does not always "kick-out" when it senses back pressure from the float valves. It was simply passing water through to the waste line. Water consumption was outragious...!

My only solution which comes to mind is a check valve installed on the kitchen water reservoir inlet? Has any one seen these? A 1/4" John Guest style would be the ultimate addition to the rats nest of flexible tubing down there...!

One other thing about the drinking water, should I T in before OR after the DI cartridge?

Thanks in advance!

Holy wowzers...you lost me there buddy! But uh...whatever you do make sure your drinking water is RO, not RO/DI. ;)

there is nothing wrong with drinking ro/di at all.

how much drinking water do you use at a time, by "t"ing in another accumalator you are increasing your total volume to both the tank and your drinking supply, if you only grab a cup or two at a time no problem, if you are filling a 5 gal bucket then it will lower all 3 accumalators.

Steve

DI water tastes horrible. I'm not sure if it's bad for you or not, but I do know it tastes awful.

:crazyeye: I think I'm lost too. :lol:

I would T the drinking water tank before the DI cartridge. I think it won't mix, but I know for sure you can at least get JG check valves in 3/8" (I have a couple, in fact you can just have one if you want it, let me know), they probably come in 1/4" but who knows where to find 'em.

The one last thought/comment I've got .. I played around with a 5gal pressure tank for drinking water and .. I'm not sure if you're supposed to take a bicycle pump or something to these things and fiddle with the precharge pressure, but I only get like 2 cups of water out of that thing before it loses pressure and the water becomes a drip-drip-drip. Maybe you'll have better luck, I sort of just gave up on it. But if you have the source water on a timer I wonder if it will sort of turn out the same way.

Seems to me the solenoid for shutting off the RO/DI may be faulty? If it's not really shutting off the source water?

all I notice is it tasts a bit dry, to fix this just put a post carbon filter inline befor your tap you take the drinking water out of.

Steve

I would respectfully disagree.

DI water Is very bad for human body because it does not have dissolved solids in it we need at least 150 ppm to 210 ppm of dissolved solids for our kidneys to function properly.
If we drink water with less then 210 ppm our body will start taking minerals from the bones as well as blood. Blood has to have at least 1% calcium in it , doesn’t seem like much but if it drops below 1% not good for heart.
When I buy drinking water it is at least 210 ppm and some times I buy water wit 2000PPM (Made in Germany)

oh no, the bottle water at work is less than 10 ppm, good thing I just use it for making coffee.

As for the excess waste water, if the unit is not shutting down after no more demand might be time to either clean or replace automatic shutoff valve. I've got a Aquasafe and was not shutting off a while back. Took the valve out, disassembled and gave a good rinse, fine ever since.

I guess that's why all the 2 million or so drinking GVRD water (~25tds) are so crippled with kidney disorders, osteoporosis, and heart disease.....

LOL. I was afraid I would lose a few in the mumbo-jumbo. Maybe I should have added a photo just to get the brave ones to run for cover...
Steve, my concern is the pressurized reservoir/vessel will allow water to go to the kitchen or to the evap. reservoir. As water evaporates, the pressurized vessel will re-fill it. Come morning time, it's unknown how much, if any water is available for the rye & water kick start for the day...? (Kidding).

Mark, I too have the Aquasafe system. Is the shut off valve the small stainless steel check valve on the RO housing. I once found debris in it and after cleaning it shut down normally. For a while...
What's the white "valve" after the cartridges but prior to the membrane,
(4 lines),...?

Tony, the solenoid valve works awesome! Reliable and an awesome safety feature especially when on vacation! If there's a 3/8 JG check valve, you've given me hope for the chances there's a 1/4" available.

I dunno', I hooked up the kitchen to a separate GAC cartridge I had layin' around. Maybe that's good enough, Nah! I won't give up until I have to scramble for the shop-vac...LOL

I have also heard running GAC after the DI resins. Not sure but sounds like a good reason for debate, but remember, this topic is all about me...LOL

Thanks for all the input! It's appreciated.