In the market for an HOB overlfow.. Flooding discussion
 

Hey guys,

I am shopping for an overflow box for my 20 gal, as I am currently building a 10 gal sump. Anywho, I have been seeing quite a few threads on people being freaked out about syphon break and how drilling the tank is the way to go (i agree on drilling btw however my tank is already up and running and I know there is no one around where I'm from that could drill it. I know I would break it..lol).

Here's my thought on the topic, and please someone chime in if there has already been a discussion on it. What I was going to do is simulate a syphon break, I would then monitor the amount the level drops in the chamber with the return pump, until the tank is about to flood over. I would then mark this level on the sump wall and mount the return pump so the suction is at or slightly above this level. This way, if the overflow box was to have a syphon break, the pump would try to continue to pump, however the level in the sump chamber with the return pump would drop to the point where the pump lost suction. This would prevent a flooding situation in my display tank and ensure that my hardwood flooring, as well as the gyprock on the roof in the lower level is not damaged.

I know that I would probably fry the pump if left too long, however, replacing a pump is so much cheaper than having warped hardwood flooring and replacing the roofing in the basement. lol.

Let me know what you think... Any other ideas would be great. thanks. Ooh and if anyone has a lifereef HOB overflow that they want to get rid of let me know..lol

Gary.

why not buy a safe overflow from gl*******.com and install that. it is nearly 100% safe and silent, and it looks great. I first built a pipe overflow but was too afraid of flooding and I am really happy I did this. Drilling the tank was easy and the little nano overflow take very little foot print. I have it installed on my 15 gallons with 20 gallons sump.

It's small box but work great. Here is a pic of it.


http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y.../104_2040s.jpg

glass-holes.com kits are drilled.

daniella3d, I would, but my tank is stocked at the moment and don't want to risk it. If I were to be sizing up the tank I would for sure trust me..lol

overflow
 

I have had them for years...never owned a drilled tank
They are self primeing don't take up much room
My tank is in my living room...never overflowed
Just adjust the water level same as any tank with your sump
I think most of the stores sell them...
I know Steve at red Coral in Edmonton had a good one

I think your plan to raise the return pump would cause you noise issues....if the return pump is just below the water line in the sump it will draw in air.....if it were me, I would buy a brand new 20g tank and drill it, then swap everything over......the cost of doing this would probably be less than buying a lifereef overflow.......

This would be a good excuse to get a controller. You could have a float switch shut off the pump when the water dropped a certain level in the sump.

Alternatively you could get a JBJ ATO and use it to turn off the pump when it got too low. This is a cheaper option.


Getting another 20 gallon and moving everything is another option.

Have look at this product , 24 years in business no failures.http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html

As others have said, get a new drilled 20g then you can rescape or run an overflow that is worthy, I was looking at the design of some of the overflows and some needed an aqualifter pump to prime and suck the air out, too much tinkering, I like the drilled overflow method, although saying this my next tank will have a coast to coast external overflow so I don't have an ugly box in the tank, also it will have 3 drains because you can't have too many safety in the hobby....

THanks for all the info guys. I was actually eyeing up the Lifereef overflow box as there are many people that seem to like them.

Fishytime, I agree witht he problem with the noise it could create, however if I did the math right, then the pump will be sufficiently below the surface to ensure there is no vortex created. If there is, I can make a custom vortex breaker and mount it on the pump so I think it won't be much of an issue.