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GMGQ 01-19-2011 08:19 AM

FYI, you can ship stuff to a place in Point Roberts, WA, and just drive over there to pick it up and bring it back yourself. The US border guards there know that's what you go there for, so they just ask you straight up "what are you picking up?" Then when you come back, just be honest, and you may not get dinged. I ship stuff there all the time, and havent been dinged (knock on wood!).

This is one of the places I use:

You basically register on their website, then mail stuff there under your own name, but use their address. When your package arrives, they'll either email you or give you a call, and you go pick it up (just bring photo ID). It costs $3-4US per package to use their service (price depending on the weight of each package).

From Burnaby to Point Roberts takes like 30minutes.

You save a LOT of money over 'international' shipping from the states. There's a place in Blaine, WA that does this too, but they just started charging a one time annual fee now in 2011.

And you wont have to deal with brokerage fees from UPS :P

Just another option for you to consider :)


Originally Posted by Milad (Post 572144)
its a tough call. whats frustrating me is that has them for half the price futureelectronics sells them for and $40 cheaper than BUT doesnt keep them in stock and the guy was rude. so i could take my chances with wattsupply out of the US and hope I dont get dinged at the border or use futureelectronics.... decisions decisions.

thats something like 20 LEDs i could buy if CDIweb had them.

did i just start using LEDs as monetary unit? WTF

abcha0s 01-19-2011 01:52 PM

<deleted post - may have contained inaccurate information - sorry!>

mseepman 01-19-2011 04:39 PM

I understand your thoughts on Ohm's Law and it seems right. The issue seems to be between the theory and what really happens when a string fails. Others who have done parallel builds have found that without the fuse, the amperages accross the remaining strings increase and either shorten the life of your LED's or destroy them. Could this be based upon how the first string failed? Maybe the worry is if the LED fails open?

abcha0s 01-19-2011 06:40 PM

<deleted post - may have contained inaccurate information - sorry!>

abcha0s 01-19-2011 07:24 PM

I did a little more reading and perhaps my quick assessment of the behaviour of these circuits is in error. I figure that I better acknowledge my simple analysis before someone else points it out. As I said, I don't know anything about LEDs.

I'll do some more reading before posting again. Sorry if I derailed the thread. I think it's important to really understand what's going on here, but perhaps I'm not the guy to explain it.

My explaination is accurate if a diode were simply a resistor, but of course they are not. The electrical charecteristics are different and that is what I need to better understand.

- Sorry!

GMGQ 02-23-2011 11:22 PM


Am I correct to assume that on the left side of the terminal blocks, they are all jumper together?



Originally Posted by Milad (Post 570324)
So here is the wiring diagram and parts list
wiring on between LEDs is 22awg
wiring from driver to blocks is 20awg

Milad 02-23-2011 11:46 PM


Originally Posted by GMGQ (Post 593543)

Am I correct to assume that on the left side of the terminal blocks, they are all jumper together?


Not all jumped together, the ones for each driver are jumped together.

Ive also changed the design and im not using the meanwell 240s because they dont dim all the way. they only dim to 50%

KevinK 03-29-2011 09:29 PM

hi milad,

gust checking what the progress is !!

any updates ?

Milad 03-30-2011 01:24 AM

Im going back and forth and back and forth of the heatsink design

the latest rendition is a linear design with two long skinny heatsinks. until I nail this down its not moving. Give me another month or so before you see pictures.

Bblinks 07-13-2011 06:14 PM

Malad, just curious on the progress?

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