Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board

Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/index.php)

- Tank Journal (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=18)

- - Ricket's Reef 90 (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=58349)

Ricket's Reef 90

I've been documenting my new build in video, and posted them on YouTube. Here are the links to the build progression movies so you can check them out if interested. I'll add more links as the build progresses.

I'm on a pretty tight budget when it comes to my hobbies. So I've done a lot of DIY in this build.
Things I've DIY'd are:
* Tank Stand (TY Lastlight for the tile look idea, it's beautiful)
* DIY Rock (Oyster Shell and Cement)
* DIY Coast to Coast overflow with Bean Animal Drains
* DIY Sump
* DIY Light Fixture
* DIY Return Surge/Wave System
* DIY Auto Top Off
* DIY Power/Plug Station with Switches
* more to come.
For the actual setup, without live stock, and without suppliments/test kits it has cost roughly $1300. The bulk of that cost is the light fixture/bulbs ($420) and the skimmer ($450).

Anyway I hope you enjoy the movies...any suggestions, comments, help, or feedback is always welcome and appreciated.

Build #1: Tanks, Rocks, Fish Room, & Idea's

Build #2: Aquarium Stand

Build #3: The Overflow

Build #4: The Skimmer

Build #5: The Sump and Stuff

Build #6: In House Water Test

Build #7: Octopus XP-2000 Skimmer Working

Build #8: The Sump Update

Build #8: The Display Update

Build #8: The Lights Part 1

Rickets Reef: 90 Gal Day 21

There's also a 10 gal nano build movie set on my YouTube profile.....it was my first SW tank so you can see all my silly mistakes :mrgreen:

Awesome video run through. Watched all of them.

Skimmer looks to be working great.. Can you tell me what the height of the skimmer is?

Also like your own "live rock" you made.. looks great!

tyvm, glad you liked the vids/rock. :smile:

If I remember correctly the skimmer is 23" tall. It's said to do best in 6" of water so I have it on a little eggcrate/pvc/acrylic platform because the sumps skimmer section is quite deep.

Damn, that's a inch to tall for me... I've got a MAX for 22" to work with for my skimmer on my tank build, leaves me very few options.

I am definitely going to copy your ball valve system on your return outlet though. :mrgreen: .. except I'll toss a 3rd one to control flow to my fuge.

New Updates...
Movie: Day 38 - New Lights and Life
Movie: Day 40 - Small Update

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/att...1&d=1260129709

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/att...2&d=1260129709

Those aren't the bulbs I'm actually using (those came with the fixture and I sold em).
I'm using (front to back):

Giesemann Actinic +
Giesemann Actinic +
UVL Fiji Purple
Giesemann Actinic +
Giesemann Aquablue +
Giesemann Aquablue +
Giesemann Actinic +
Giesemann Actinic +

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/att...3&d=1260129709

Couple new updates:

(Day 48) Part 1: Excel & Sump

(Day 48) Part 2: The Display

Also for those asking about vodka dosing....here is the list of cause/affects/actions I've compiled to help with that system. The info's mainly from Sonny's build, and a few other sources talking about vodka dosing.

Quote:

MB7 (Bottle Instructions.)
+
Vodka (or carbon) Dosing - http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php
=========================
Probiotic Reef Keeping.

Time to dose = during lights on seems best. MB7 into the display. Vodka into the sump.

Rules
1) Need a good skimmer

Noticed in Water testing
1) high nitrates = increase vodka as per instructions.
2) no Nitrate/Phos change in LONG time = try another carbon source like vinegar, sugar, biofule...
3) low nitrates = maintain till 0 then reduce to maintenence levels of vodka
4) Increase in Alk = stop dosing Cal / alk, test water change h20 for alk level. Decrease with large water changes and/or chemicals if it gets bad. Corals may stop taking Cal/ALK while getting used to Probiotic system & increased light.
4) new tank/build = follow instructions, stay close to the low side of dosing.
5) Phosphate being high = a round of GFO

Noticed in Algae/Bacteria Reaction
1) Bacterial Blooms (slimy white strings) = too much bacteria, decrease vodka dosing.
2) algae on glass after increase of MB7 = reduce MB7 :P
3) brown dusting or brown hair like stuff = decrease MB7 (also check http://www.rimlessreef.com/1/post/20...eament-of.html )
4) cyano = increase MB7 and/or lower/stop vodka dose. After the cyano has gone away restart the vodka from the initial or maintenence dose. If it's really bad consider a "lights out" period. If really really bad consider "Red Slime Remover."
5) peach fuzz = stop or decrease (especially vodka) dosing for a while (about a week or till the fuzz dies off) then start back up with the maintenance dose. OR This may also just go away in time.
6) glass and sand getting dirtier = dose more/feed less

Noticed in Live Stock Reaction
1) Corals losing color = more feeding, possibly Amino Acids, lower photo period an hour for a while.
2) Corals Burnt Tips = check alkalinity..get it to 7-8 dKH by stop dosing alk...maybe stop dosing EVERYTHING if it gets bad.
3) Monti caps bleaching = Cut the vodka dosage in half and stay there until the cap starts to color up and/or lower the lighting photoperiod for a bit or have a light "day off."
4) Everything dies = Blame the wife, kids, or something other than your own possible mistakes

Other
1) substrate hardening = keep it broken up and syphoned with water changes. Maintain a good high PH of 8.1 - 8.3

DIY Hang On Frag Rack
Yellow Tang Killing Seaweed
Day 65 - New Livestock
Howto Reline an Aquarium

I don't always update the thread as much as YouTube so for instant build movie updates just subscribe to me on YouTube :)

Thanks for watching and I hope those interested enjoy these.
Take Care,
Rick.

Really great thing you're doing with the videos. A lot of people will find those handy. The highlight of my evening so far was watching you unpack your skimmer. I should donate the extra tripod I have to your cause!

Also just added a video on Carbon Dosing.

HowTo Carbon Dosing

Thanks for the props Brett. Your previous build was part of my inspiration to take the plunge into a tank bigger than a nano. My stand uses the tile technique much like yours :mrgreen:

A tripod must certainly a handy thing with these movies....I've had many dreams and thoughts about a DIY tripod :D
Maybe I like PVC glue too much. hehe

It's funny...I found a thread on RC tonight and the guy has drawer slide doors and a powered light lift. I'm glad the build inspired a few people before it became history. I have no idea how to make a small cube unique...I'm going to have to actuate the whole damn thing into the ceiling or something for some WOW.

I saw your tile job man. Brought a tear to my eye. Hell at first I thought those WERE my tiles! Have any sag yet with the hinges? How thick are those tiles?

Quote:

I'm going to have to actuate the whole damn thing into the ceiling or something for some WOW

LOL. Well make it good cause I need more idea's to steal for my next build :P

The doors have no sag yet. Well sort of actually. I had some really terrible sag when I first made the doors to the point that I almost gave up on tile doors.

I liked the drawer stile and wanted that but my space doesn't allow for that. So hinges was my only options. If I did sliding it'd have to be THICK plywood to prevent sag.

-----long story about tile doors starts here----- :)
As you can see in the stand making video I simply took 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood and mortared the tiles to it for the doors. And you can probably see there's two 2x4's on the inside of each door. What you don't see in the video is why the 2x4's :D

Here's why.... when I first made the doors I simply mortared tiles onto the 1/2" plywood. The next morning when I checked on the doors they were curved like a "C" from the tile weight. So I turned them over and piled bags of concrete and my DIY rocks on them in hopes they'd straighten/flatten out.
Didn't work.
However, during that process the mortar became weak and most of the tiles popped off with ease; and so I had a fresh start on the doors. I figured the tiles/mortar wouldn't be able to bend a 2x4. So I screwed 2 pieces of 2x4 to the inside of each door just big enough to fit snug into the cavity of the stand. This can't be done with the drawer style because it'll stop the doors from sliding; but it can with swinging hinged doors, and even it helps as added vertical front supports when the doors are shut :) And so far so good. No sag in the doors and the hinges are holding fine. The stength of the inner 2x4"s is greater than the weight of the tiles. I may need to replace the hinges with something more heavy duty in the future, but atm they're holding true.

Funny you mention those strengthening 2x4s. I was planning to do the same with the first plywood doors i put on to combat the curve. I was almost ready to attach some 1x2s to the backside and realized my slides wouldn't work with them there! My solution was a furniture grade plywood...straight as an arrow and 3/4" rather than 1/2".