^^ LOL

I'm not a fan of 'code'. It's just silly. Especially when you're talking about HVAC. Electrical.... yes, totally understandable. But HVAC???? c'maaaan

Not certain about him and code.... but I do know that he has a habit of making things look easy. I get that impression mainly because I am a crappy friend and don't help out in the builds, but also from the fact that he works like an animal and accomplishes a months worth of work in 5 straight all-nighters!

Oh, just wait until you start adding livestock! That's when it really starts adding up, but for some reason spending $1000 on livestock doesn't hurt as much as $1000 on setup. Maybe it's the eye candy. :D

I sympathize with the frustration of making it all work, but that is great that you are building everything to code. Codes are made for good reason, and it would not be pleasant if after all this your not-to-code plumbing failed you.

What do you have in the works for electrical? I would suggest you dedicate at least two different breakers so that if one pops the tank will still remain half-running. I run all my lights on one breaker (so if they have trouble they only kick out half the system) and my pumps are split between two different breakers. I have (2) 20-amp breakers...one is GFCI protected, the other has GFCI receptacles.

The first post of the thread goes through his electrical setup :wink:

I have 4 separate 15 Amp services into that room (1 off my main panel, and 3 off a sub panel that I had installed). All have 4 GFI double outlets on each of them for a total of 16 double GFI outlets. All but one of the services are above the water line, so problems should be limited, and if there are any, they should not affect the other outlets.

Awesome, great plan. :)

Word of caution on GFI breakers/plugs if you plug lighting into them they may trip. The ballasts in T5's and MH are sometimes enough to trip the plug. I suggest you put all the lighting together and don't add vital equipment on with them in case they trip.

Thanks for the tip! I will have to keep my eye out for that. I have gone with enough GFI outlets that each MH should have its own - not sure if that'll help or not. If they still trip, I can swap the GFI outlets for standard outlets as the lights are on their own circuit and the circuit itself is not GFI.

I never once thought of that, but it makes sense. I hope it's OK as is, but if not, at least I am now aware of it, so thanks!

Magma's advice to put all lights on one breaker is good advice. Since you have 4 breakers you should have no problem dedicating one to lighting only. I found the GFCI receptacles couldn't handle my halide lighting which is why one of my breakers is GFCI instead of the receptacle. The GFCI breakers are about $100 each where the receptacles are $20 each. My understanding is that you only need one GFCI receptacle per breaker to protect the whole breaker, but check with an electrician!

Good thing I am an Electrician!

GFCI breakers range from about $90 and up, the plug is around 15-20 depending on the style.

So yes it depends on how you wire the GFCI plugs. They have a Line side and a Load side.

Generally speaking you would come from the panel and into the Line side on the GFCI plug. If you have more plugs down the line you can just put the next circuit into the LOAD side of the plug and everything after that would be GFCI protected. (Basically anything wired directly off the GFCI plug down the line is GFCI protected, and anything before the GFCI is NOT protected. Thats if its all wired correctly)

When you buy a GFCI plug it has an instruction sheet on how to wire it and also clearly marks on the plug which side is which. Most have a yellow sticker over the Load side so you don't end up hooking it up wrong.

If you needed some help with it I am free on weekends and some evenings to help as well.