from my first post you will see im going 2 drivers only for all 144 leds.
one for CW and one for RB so i can dim them seperatley

im actually doing a diagram right now to handle any issues with the parallel design, it should be fail safe. I should have it up within next couple hours.

Drivers are coming from cdiweb.com
Heatsinks are coming from heatsinkusa.com
Extra odds and ends are coming for digikey.ca

ill be posting links to each of the parts too for others reading.

So here is the wiring diagram and parts list

The resistors are there to easily measure the amps since this is a parallel design.
Fuses are in for "o ****" protection
Terminal blocks for ease of wiring

Doing this setup doesnt really give me plug in play modules but rather a full 72in fixture.

Resistors x 12: $1.05 ea
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=UB5C-1.0-ND

1A Fuses x 12 (for Royal Blues): These are 1A. And could be used in most cases in 700ma up to maybe 900mA setups. $0.83 ea
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ame=F3169CT-ND

1.5A Fuses x 12 (for Cool Whites): could be used in most cases in 1.2A up to maybe 1.4A setups. $0.83 ea
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...&name=F2319-ND

Terminal Block x 4: These are 12 position $3.80ea
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=A98510-ND

Terminal Block Jumper x 20: $.025 ea
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...&name=A0139-ND

10x10 Heatsink x 3 $31.17 ea
http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/products/...x-10-inch.html
*note might be changing this due to weight issues

****NOTE THIS DRIVER HAS CHANGED BECAUSE IT WILL NOT DIM UNDER 50%**********
Cool white dimmable driver (HLG-240-42B 42v 5.72 amps) $118.31
http://wattsupply.com/s.nl/it.A/id.3056/.f

****NOTE THIS DRIVER HAS CHANGED BECAUSE IT WILL NOT DIM UNDER 50%**********
Royal Blue dimmable driver (HLG-240-54B 54v 4.45 amps) $118.31
http://wattsupply.com/s.nl/it.A/id.3056/.f

#6-32 3/8 Length Nylon Screws (100pc) x 4: 4.64ea
http://www.smallparts.com/nylon-mach...qid=1291591373
or More expensive but in Canada:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...l&name=H556-ND

#6-32 Tap x 1: 11.25ea
http://www.smallparts.com/butterfiel...e_name=%236-32
*I might buy this locally and order the nylon screws through digikey

Thermal Grease 2.5g x 5: 4.83ea
http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/products/...trix-2.5g.html

22awg 600v pretinned stranded wire: $7.50 50ft
http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/products/...600-volt).html


LEDs
XP-G cool white in 10 LED series (http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/products/...ool-White.html)
XP-E royal blue in 14 LED series (http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/products/...oyal-Blue.html)


Ill probably end up buying 3 times as many fuses just in case.

wiring on between LEDs is 22awg
wiring from driver to blocks is 20awg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2361330/Aqua...D%20Wiring.jpg

Wow, you did a really nice job putting that diagram together.

I was hoping to do the parallel thing but avoid the resistors and fuses as I start to feel like it's getting past me in my electrical knowledge. Hadn't thought of doing a terminal block but it's a really good idea.

the resistors and fuses are simple once you know why you are putting them in and undersatnd whats happening on a parallel string.

ill try to explain it.

most of the simple designs you see are one driver per 12 LEDs
These are usually powered by something like the meanwell LPC-35-700
This driver puts out up to 48V and .700amps

the LEDs are rated to have about 3.5 volts each and .700 amps per series.

12LEDS * 3.5ea = 42V. The driver above will adjust itself down to 42v

so the above driver can only handle one series (.700amps) and 12 LEDs (48v).

Now lets say you got a big bad driver that does 2.1amps and 48V

So now you can only still have series of 12 LEDs (48v). But since you have 2.1amps you need to balance that out between 3 series of 12 LEDs which gives you .700 amps per series.

The reason you start needing resistors and fuses is to be "safe"

So, if for watever reason one of those 3 series decides to stop, and other two keep running, you are dividing 2.1amps between 2 series instead of 1! Thats 1.050amps per series. If the LEDs cant handle it, boom goes the LEDs. This is why you put a 1amp fuse in before each series. As soon as one series goes, the 1amp fuse blows and your LEDs are safe.

So what is the resistor for?
Well for you to measure the amperage on each series you need to un-solder and put a multimeter inline with the leds. Well of course this sucks. If you put a 1ohm resistor at the beginning of each LED series then you just measure across the resistor while its inline and it will tell you the amperage.

From my understanding the amperage can vary per series so you want to switch LEDs out and get them as close as you can to each other. Over time it can change also, so having the resistors in there for quick tests works great.

Thanks for the quick explanation. I will end up putting in both the resistors and the fuses now that I know where to get them and why. You should make sure you take some detailed pictures of your wiring to the terminal blocks, how the jumpers are setup and your wiring of the fuses...(so that I can copy of course:lol:)

Any luck with the info from ETG on Neutrals and Blues?

why did you decide to run them at 0.7amp instead of 1 amp? just curious.

Steve

running the LEDs lower than max Amp (so 70%) makes them last longer..

Although I agree wtih you about the lower ma rating generating less heat and therefore extending the life of the LED, I am hoping to find a way to push the XP-G's up to 1000ma as their max is 1500 and 1000 should still leave a very long life.

I know you have found all the other items you need...but have you ordered them already?

thanks for pointing that out! I knew i saw 1500 somewhere. XP-G cool white are 1500
XP-E royal blue are 1000.

I might switch up my design to handle 1000 for the cool white.

not realy unless you exceed there max spec. the max operational is 1000mA but that will not burn them out. the problem comes in with heat. so if you up the current and don't provide an efficien way to remove the extra heat then yes the life will be shortened. If you deal with the heat then no effect.

I would personaly go with 1000mA for both as you are also using fuses and resistors to safe guard and dimable ballasts so the chances of you ever comming close to a situation where you would pump enough current/voltage to dammage the LEDs are going to be very very slim to none.

most people just run 1000mA dimable meanwells and nothing else and are not having problems. but I do like the idea of the fuses. not sure I like the parallel idea but I guess with the resistors you put to rest any concerns I have there.

Steve