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New sump design...........hit me with some input
Here is 2 rough layouts of my new sump design. Hope it's self explanatory
Design #1 http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps10352519.jpg Design #2 http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psf1c6bbc5.jpg |
Well it looks really fancy. On the first drawing the baffle heights look good. I've found you need to have the socks about 2" above the water or they tend to shift out of there holder. On your second drawing Your sharpie lines show the water being about the same height as the sock holder. From my experience (what little there is) I think that you will find your water height will be too high in the middle chamber even with clean socks as you need to have a slight difference in pressure for the water to push through the sock. The other thing is you want to have the safety channel. If your socks plug up you want to have a way for the water to go over the baffle. Right now it would hit the floor. Not that 8 socks are going to plug quickly. Only other question I had was is there a specific reason for running 2 systems back to back like that? I have 2500gph running through 2 4" socks and the water still splashes into them making me think they can handle even more flow. Couple of 7" socks and you could run the whole amount through them. Then you got room for a refugium or frag tank. It's an awesome size, excited to see this one get set up. If its anything like your other tanks it'll be stellar. I like the built in chambers and ato. Good use of space.
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I have no idea what any of that means. :lol:
How about an explanation for simpletons like myself? |
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Curious why you have 2 return chambers? |
Quick answer for tonight on the 2 return chambers. Going to be running 2 - DC10000 return pumps with OM 4ways on each to a total of 8 return lines threw the back of my new tank.
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Thanks for clearing that up! I was confused/mesmerized by all those chambers.
Speaking of chambers, I am against integrated dosing chambers :-). I frequently clean the crud out of my jugs by rinsing them in the sink. Can't imagine what a pain it would be to try and clean out integrated ones in your sump. I suppose you could just live with any residue and not bother to clean them. |
Likin' either design
What about incorporating your heater(s) into one of the bubble traps to save space Mine are in a wasted bubble trap, are always wet no matter what the return pump is doing, and are not fully submerged so hopefully they'll last longer (not fill up with water over time) Same idea as what you are planning; Drain to whatever chamber that overflows through the socks, then have the heaters in the next (upflow) chamber and voila, heaters are always wet, easy to remove and keeps the tops dry Hopefully your sump is deep enough for your heaters to stand up straight :wink: I ended up re-designing my sump (last pic), but thought these first pics would be good for a visual http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/DSC00812.jpg http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/DSC00826.jpg This is where I changed the design and added the socks before the heaters The last baffle is hidden by the center brace http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/DSC01316.jpg |
I see there is some concern about your sock tray height ...
I have 3 x 4" socks (only equals 1 x 7") in my sump and run an Eheim 1262 My sock tray is about 1/2" below the lip of my trim, and when the mesh socks plugged up, water flowed over the baffle (1/4" below the trim) without ever going near the trim I also don't have the water dropping into the socks, but rather just flowing through them My socks are fully submerged and have never shifted I don't see an issue with your sock trays being anywhere you want them |
Water levels for two return pumps will not be the same.
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I say drop a baffle from each bubble trap. Over kill. More sump space.
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How big is the display? I like OM on closed loop rather than return line. I would have one return chamber and both pumps in there. Have the sump flow one direction. Returns go straight to tank with maybe a couple splitters so you have 4 nozzles going into tank (depending on size of display). Then make closed loop to run the 8 OM outputs. Eight 4" filter socks? I would rather use four 7" filter socks. I hate 4" filter socks. |
Looks great Greg. Is that ATO chamber going to be fed from an ro/di system or are you having to manually add water? If you are manually adding.. It's to small.
I know you have a lot of returns heading back to the display but I think I'd still rather a larger single return section with both pumps in it. |
Oh I was referring to the sump in the
Photo. Not the Mock up. |
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I still dont understand the purpose of the two return chambers, with a sump that size you could have a bad-ass refuge and a larger return area with both pumps in it, or even a larger ATO area. Also does that ATO top off both return sections? seems like another pump would be needed...
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I am planning a auto WC system as well as a feed pump directly from my 200 gal whole house RO system. I want to have the 2 pump apart because it will be very hard to plumb 2 4ways that close together. also want to have as my OF lines as short as possible ( dual bean animals ) and join together near center of the tank to a 3" manifold. |
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like this: http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse9d05725.jpg then you can follow with the other two baffles. personally i also dont see the need for two return chambers i would use that space for something else if it were moi;) |
How is an ATO going to work with two return chambers? Don't tell me you're manually topping off a 300-gallon tank...?? :lol:
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If it was me I would use one of those DC10000 pumps for a return with 2 or 4 nozzles, and then get a bigger pump for a closed loop. :D Those DC10000 pumps aren't near big enough imo. I would be looking at a Reeflo Hammerhead for each OM which would still only give you about 35x turnover. |
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Not to mention the noise of a hammerhead pump terrible, also had one of these on my 165 and I could hear it up stairs in my bedroom. This is a low noise, low power consumption build. ATO will have sensor in the smaller side to monitor the level and top it up balancing them both. |
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http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps78544001.jpg |
Could do it this way as well, just have to have room for an ATO tank and my skimmer under the main tank. Chiller is going under the cabinet tower on the one end & the other end tower will have my dosing chambers and chiller for my 60 gal seahorse tank that will be beside the 300.
http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psb29fb3d3.jpg |
I like the above layout much better. So...is OM replacing your drum for free?
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I am also thinking it might be easier to switch out the 4ways to squids if I can find them.
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SCWDs steal 30% of the flow to operate though.
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I think I might order one & test it out on my current tank to get at least a first hand testing & if it doesn't work well for my big tank it should be just fine for my seahorse tank. |
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I'm surprised that Sphelps hasn't chimed in here yet. He's good at this planning stuff! He's helping me create the multi-sump-multi-pump setup for my 7 footer. |
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Forgot to add this link to the data on makers website: http://www.3iqventures.com/literature.html And a link to the 1" model http://www.3iqventures.com/oneinch.html |
Well I ordered one of the 1" model SCWD's and did a little test on it with a DC10000 Pump. Now this is not a total scientific test but its simple for anyone to do to get a close water volume movement value.
I simply took a Rubbermaid tube and filled it with water and had a bucket with exactly 18 liters marked in it. Put a 5' - 1" hose onto the pump and timed how long it took to hit the 18 liter mark in sec's, divided 60 sec's by the time in sec's, multiplied that by 18 liters to get liters per minute & then multiplied that by 60 Min's to get liters per hour. Then I added in the SCWD with a 6" piece of 1" hose to the pump and 2 - 5' pieces of 1" hose coming out of the SCWD. Did the same time test as above. Here is what i have come up with: Waveline DC10000 pump alone was 6480 LPH / 1712 GPH ( little far off there 10000 LPH claim ) Waveline DC10000 pump with SCWD was 5400 LPH / 1427 GPH SO needless to say i am not impressed with the flow rate out of the DC10000 and have to decide if I just go with it or add in 2 more return pumps. I wanted to test the OM 4way that I bought used last year but it doesn't rotate, it is one of the magnetic versions and if I had look at it closer or know it was the mag version I would not have bought it. |
Hmmm, a bit disappointing flow rates for sure. I assume there was 0 head too. Been thinking of these for my application but with 12' of head there's no way I'll get even close to what I'll need I guess. I wonder what the 20,000 will be like....
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Was the DC10000 hooked up externally, or submerged?
That kinda sucks, as this was the setup I was hoping for on my closed loop (only with an OM 4 way). I can only imagine the flow restriction out of an OM4.. |
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I wonder what the difference would be if you hooked up a full 1 1/4" line or even upped it to the 1 1/2" line. From my firefighting days there's a significant difference.
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