Closed Loop pics (for ldzielak)
 

Here are some of the pics you wanted to see cheers. This one is of the pump. I kinda decided to do the closed loop cause I found the unions for $3.33 at Revy :roll: Good enough reason I thought!
http://members.shaw.ca/reefs/canadia...DSC00455-1.jpg

These pics are of the output. There are 2 outputs on each side of the tank. They are Grey pvc from the slide over type fittings from Revy. They are are threaded riser(or unrisers in this case) so I can change the riser to make it higher or lower and also change direction.
http://members.shaw.ca/reefs/canadia...DSC00457-1.JPG
http://members.shaw.ca/reefs/canadia...DSC00459-1.JPG

Thanks for the pics, that must give some really good flow. I used the same "system" with the risers on the returns to my tank. what did you use for an intake? What kind of a screening system are you using, I have lost 3 fish to power heads before, I know this pump could kill more if not done right.

Lee

The intake of the pump is a "U" over the back wall that's about 6" long in 1" pvc.
I capped off the end and drilled about 50 3/8 ish size holes. The holes are over aprox 3" to 4" of the pipes length. Snails crawl over the intake with no problem's at all.

you been watching me build things to long :wink: hehe

Steve

Yes it's very similar to your overflow design I saw when you were setting up your tank :lol:

Hi Jonathan, the outputs are 1" are they not?

Just curious. Maybe here's an experiment you can try for me (if you haven't tried this already by some chance.)

If you closed one side and had the other side full open; then manually switched directions (i.e., opened the other side and closed the first side), what does this effect look like as the water flow changes direction? Do you get a sweeping motion of the "point of convergence" ?


... One more question. How come you used T's capped off at the ends, instead of 90-degree bends? Do you find this balances the outputs better the way you did it?

Hey Tony,
The outputs are kinda 1" :roll: The pvc portion is plumbed in 3/4" and the grey output nozzles are I believe 1" but they are the slip over type fittings so the inside diamiter is same as 3/4" pvc.

Basically yes. This is the reason that I am getting the wave maker and I am going to have 1 mj1200 on each side of the tank and they will be alternating on/off at diffrent time. Idealy I would like to do this with the irrigation solenoid thing with the main closed loop pump but the mj/wavemaker way is much more affordable. I actually close one side fully for a minute or so and then do the other about once a week just to loosen up some of the detrius in the rock and sand.



I used the T's for the exact reason that you suspect. The output was slightly uneven when I had one T and one 90. Now they seem to be exactaly even with their output.

Good questions! 8)

Jonathan,

Still have those closed loop pics? I'm having problems with mine, my pump (Mag18) is cavatating and mking micro-bubbles all over the tank. Always fun to find this out after it's al done.

Lee

I am having the same problem with a mag18 as well ... wont be able to upgrade for a while either ( how does that go again ? ... wife acceptance factor ? LOL )

Cheers

I do have those pics on my pics discs. I can dig them out to you if you want and mail them to you?

How is your pump set up? what size intake and how long is the pipe? Did you get all your connections glued proper?

Cavitating? Are you sure? Cavitating should be producing one heck of a noise. (You DON'T want to hear cavitating on a 8" products pipeline, for example ... :razz: )

The only thing that could be producing cavitating is if your intake line is blocked, or there is simply too much resistance on your pump intake (input line too small, or too many bends, stuff like that). So you should look to that possibility.

If you're just seeing bubbles, and not too much noise, then more likely the bubbles are venturing in from a minute hole in the joins somewhere. Try taking some PVC cement and sealing up every join and see if that has an effect.

Good luck!

Well guys here are some pics:

http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a9296.../P1010004a.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a9296.../P1010005a.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a9296.../P1010006a.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a9296.../P1010008a.jpg

So the details, Mag 18, with 1 1/2 inlet piping, 1" outlet all the way. I did not glued the tank side of the U, but tightly dry fitted. The rest was glued, since the inlet of the pump is 3/4", I reduced it right at the pump. I was getting lots of micro bubbles, but the noise from the pump was killing me. Sure sounded like cavitating, not just sucking in air. The Chiller (Power Cooler 1/4hp from J&L) is supper quiet, compared to the rest of my system. My MAK4 and Iwaki 55RLT are no competition even in the cabinet.

So I have glued it all not, will wait an hour then try again, if that doesn't work, I just picked up more fitttings and will try to mount the pump way down by the sump, 4'+ of extra head :mad:

Lee

Lee, one problem I can see is that by hanging the pump by the suction and discharge you open up the possability of the weight of the motor creating small leaks in your seal around the housing.. this could allow for the air you are talking about. maybe try to suport the weight of the pump somehow to take the strain off the joints.

Steve

One of the union's in the pictures with the yellow price tag on it dosen't look like it threaded down all the way.. Is this true and is it still like this?

I left that union off to let the vapours out from the solvent I just put on that pipe. Steve, I do have a bracket to support the pump, just removed for the picture.

So after glueing the complete inlet pipe, I had no air bubble for 4 hours or more last night. The noise is still there, I opened up the MAG and the impeller shaft has wear on it, I think I need a new one, if I can smooth this out. My air bubble are back this morning, guess the pump seal or something else started to leak over night.

Lee

Update,

So after leaving the closed loop and chiller off all day, I find 3 spots of salt creap on the seal of the impeller cover and an obvious drip of water on the inlet fitting of the pump. Got a new cover and impeller on order from J&L and will re work all this tomorrow when I get the parts off the bus.

Lee

I found that with my mag drives when I use them inline (not submerged) that it was not a bad idea to just take a wee bead of silicone around the seal of the impeller housing. Easy to enough to peel off in case you need to get into the impeller housing (which really isn't all that often in most cases), and it makes the seal somewhat more effective.