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-   -   Duckhams' 75G Reef Build - Eurobraced/BeanAnimal (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=112401)

Myka 01-26-2016 02:13 AM

My tank is same height and width. Ime, he lack of pointing ability blows the sand around a lot worse. That's my main reason right now. I'm liking the Gyre, but it lacks control flexibility. It's deadly silent though. :)

I'll try online. ..Thx!

Duckhams 01-26-2016 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka (Post 979975)
My tank is same height and width. Ime, he lack of pointing ability blows the sand around a lot worse. That's my main reason right now. I'm liking the Gyre, but it lacks control flexibility. It's deadly silent though. :)

I'll try online. ..Thx!

Sand is always an issue when any type of flow hits the sand bed, especially the smaller grain sizes. I have the Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand and the vortech's create nice waves in it that make it look more natural. I like it anyway. Thus ends my pitch for the Vortech's. :D

Myka 01-27-2016 01:13 AM

I have same sand. I'm sitting at 75x turnover, and the sand barely stays in place! I've been eyeing up the QDs though. :D

Bugger 02-01-2016 07:37 PM

Hi Elliot!
What setting are you using for your vectra?
How high do you have it turned on to. Is heat an issue?
I want to use two vectra in my system tied to two mocean spray devices but I am worried about heat.
Do you use two drain lines as your sump drain or just one.
I want an XMN device to surge my vortec pumps every fifteen minutes for maybe two minutes or so

Duckhams 02-01-2016 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugger (Post 980992)
Hi Elliot!
What setting are you using for your vectra?
How high do you have it turned on to. Is heat an issue?
I want to use two vectra in my system tied to two mocean spray devices but I am worried about heat.
Do you use two drain lines as your sump drain or just one.
I want an XMN device to surge my vortec pumps every fifteen minutes for maybe two minutes or so

I was worried about heat too, but it only uses 80w on max output, and as I have it set, it only uses around 52w. So it's more efficient than the Eheim 1262 I had. Heat is not an issue at all.
When you calibrate the pump, it sets itself up within the flow capacity of your system and then gives you a percentage range within that calibration setting to use. So you could use it on a 20 gallon tank, or a 200 gallon tank. Its incredible, and you have a lot of control over the calibration, so you can really set it up any way you like (flow/power wise).
I have a beananimal drain system, so my 1 x 1" drain line at full siphon can handle over 3,400 GPH, but I run it at a lot less than that to maximize skimmer efficiency and to make the system absolutely, hear a pin drop, silent. :D

Bugger 02-02-2016 01:33 AM

SO two drains can handle 3400 gph

Duckhams 02-08-2016 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugger (Post 981052)
SO two drains can handle 3400 gph

2 standard non-siphoning drains? it would depend on the size, and orientation of the pipes. i.e. a 90 degree bend and a horizontal run at any point in the drain line could cause a 'backup' and limit the amount of air/water able to flow through. PM me your plans and I'll take a look.

Duckhams 02-15-2016 09:34 PM

Here's a quick pic update. I've been playing around with coral placement a lot, so things still need to settle and grow in, and there's a few corals to place still. But you get the idea of where it's heading, things are really taking shape now. A few corals didn't photograph well in this setting, and there's a few not shown. I'll try to do a full photo list soon.

I've also been battling a major 'brown slime' bloom (possibly dino's) for the last month. Long story short, i've been manually removing them once a week during regular water changes. For the last week i've been using Korallen-Zucht's Coral Snow in line with Brigthwell's MicroBacter7 and that seems to have done the job. Ultimately the algae is using up nutrients, which is a good thing, so I let it run it's course and try not to freak out while manually removing it so that it doesn't negatively effect my corals. In a more established tank, I might do other things too. But as the tank is so new, I let it balance itself out with little to no change in husbandry, accept the addition of the Coral Snow and MB7.

Feb 15th 2016 FTS
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...pspv2njg3p.png[/url]

Bali Green Slimer (Acropora Yongei)
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...pscpv7waqk.png[/url]

Superman/Bullseye Rhodactis
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psmj2jch9k.png[/url]

Grape Vine acro (Acropora Secale)
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...ps68iuxam5.png[/url]

Yellow Highlighter (Acropora Caroliniana)
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psyd6uzjrx.png[/url]

Mr.Pacman (Acropora Hurlock)
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psscto98nm.png[/url]

Purple Highlighter (Acropora Plana)
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psqpiptzpb.png[/url]

Tear Drop Tridacna Clam
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psw0lvapm6.png[/url]

Rasta's (Zoanthids)
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psgzhb7kpc.png[/url]

Superman/Bullseye Rhodactis
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...pskzwdl9bg.png[/url]

Superman/Bullseye Rhodactis
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...pstnpjw0l2.png[/url]

Mr.Pacman (Acropora Hurlock)
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psrnlifwzb.png[/url]

Used to be neon yellow, now neon green (Acropora Vermiculata)
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psp3l37iim.png[/url]

Chilli Pepper Monti (Montipora sp.)
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2lypqodd.png[/url]

Yellow Nebula Yuma Mushroom
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psnegj1ahe.png[/url]

Duckhams 03-09-2016 06:56 PM

So this week I switched to the wide angle 120˚ lenses on my Radions. After taking some PAR readings, I switched back to the standard 80˚ lenses as the PAR was so low on the wide angles, even at 100%. As I have 3 x XR15PRO's above my tank, the standard lenses do the trick and I get great coverage and now great PAR too!

Below are my readings/settings. Im running them at 70% right now, but you can see what sort of PAR range I have up to 100% intensity. Obviously there is some variation in the readings as you go further toward the back glass/front glass. But all these readings were taken within the 6" center of the tank (front to back). PAR readings on the Apogee MQ-200 actually read <2% low, according to the manual.

At 70% they are incredibly bright already! I really love the Radion's. Im getting good growth from my SPS and i've kept colouration on 95% of them, but still expect to see improvements in colour as my SPS settle in and light intensity/feedings increase.

70% INTENSITY:
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0je30bi6.png[/url]

100% INTENSITY:
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psu37ikvlf.png[/url]

Duckhams 03-09-2016 07:15 PM

I also took a few readings at 100% on all channels just to see what the difference would be. The Radion XR15PRO's put out a LOT of PAR. However, I dont think many aquarists will run all channels on 100% percent as we tend to favour the blue 20,000k look over the bright 5,000k sunshine look. Though for heavy SPS tanks it may be worth ramping up to the 100% on all channels for an hour or so a day just get that extra bump in PAR. How effective, necessary or worthwhile that would be, i don't know. But I like that it's an option.

http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psqsg70mpv.png[/url]


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