Oops... and I keep a clump of chaeto in my sump

While the debate continues ...:smile:

Thanks for your input seabreeze
I've been doing everything you listed with a couple small differences;
I use HCGFO
WCs I'm doing weekly and may change to bi-monthly
I wasn't regularly basting the LR
My Strawberries and Turbos died - I suspect due to Cyano
No coral snow (coral frenzy in my case)
No vodka or vinegar dosing (yet)
All my frozen is rinsed well with RO in large batches, with garlic and aminos added before being frozen in small cubes

Never been able to keep it alive
Would probably thrive right now :rolleyes:

Coral snow is not a coral food... it's a biological facilitator. Helps with all the undesirable algaes.

I found it to help in killing of the HA... would go from dark green to a light color and much easier to pull off the rock.

Hmm, thanks

I had the cyano too. Used CyanoClean from KZ. Expensive but it works!

I also increased my flow... added 3 tunze powerheads on a multi-controller.

If you are feeding coral frenzy I would hold off. Might be fueling your problem

I haven't been using it since before summer

Basically it comes down to understanding what fuels cyano and how MB7 works(out competes the cyano bacteria) , and then following instructions. I'll start with some incorrect MB7 usage.

Some people start bio pellet, vodka, vinegar or other carbon dosing too much and too quickly. This fuels the cyano and can lead to a major outbreak. Applying MB7, even heavy dosing, will not stop the cyano at this point. The correct procedure is to start MB7 (heavy dosage) at least 2 weeks prior to carbon dosing and ramp the carbon dosing up very slowly.

Similarly, applying MB7 to kill a cyano outbreak does not work. As I said, it is not a cure. It is a preventative. You need Chemiclean to completely get rid of cyano before using MB7.

Another mistake I saw was someone misreading the instructions thinking the weekly dosage was to be applied daily. Not understanding and following instructions seems to be a common theme. Unfortunately, people often never even realize it,... since they don't know what they don't know.

Doing it correctly is simply following instructions on dosage and frequency. And after having cut down to the low dosage, recognize when cyano may reappear, and then going back to the high dosage for a short time until it clears up. I had that happen a couple times early on, but was able to quickly beat it back.

Once the MB7 bacteria is fully established in your tank, cyano won't come back, at least I have not seen it for a couple years now. And I only use half or less of the low dosage amount.

Of course MB7 is no substitute for bad tank husbandry, including not turkey basting your live rock and sand to prevent the collection of detritus. But I also know that even with good husbandry, incl low P04 and N03, you can still get cyano if you don't use MB7.

I know some of the vendors here advocate other high end bacteria supplements and solutions. They may work as well. But MB7 is pretty simple and cheap to use, and very effective, if used correctly.

I've been battling ha for a while now. It seems to be more of a brown than green algae. Glad I'm not the only one. When I used chemiclean in the past, I noticed the ha was also affected. Not alot but a bit. Today I'm doing a few days of chemiclean to affect the ha a bit followed by Kent Tech M according to instructions elsewhere to bring the magnesium up to, I think, 1600 or 1800 ppm. I called J&L yesterday to figure out which kit test to that level. Going on memory, increasing by 100 per day is recommended until the required level and kept there for 2 weeks. I'll try and update here after the process and hopefully I'll be free of the stuff.