you really need to ID the culprit before you choose the treatment.
I don't see a problem with raising your nutrients a bit as zero is a bad place to be for a newer system but growing copious amounts of algae isn't a good idea if you don't have to. same thing for the UV, at this point you don't know for certain if its even required.
I found a children's microscope kit for $23 on amazon that would suit your issue just fine and if you consider the potential for future coral losses due to dinos it is honestly a steal.
also, I understand your urgency to repair the issue but you still have to keep the tanks stability in mind continuously and act methodically. making a bunch of changes and disrupting the biological and chemical stability of the system just sets you back and is the short road to big problems.
you could probably solve a lot of low nutrient issues just simply by adding some new livestock that create waste and letting the tank adjust.

Took a sample of the Dino's to j&l and took some pictures the best I could under the microscope. Still trying to figure out exactly what kind they are.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...77a6403e62.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ede5bb1867.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...55db64e942.jpg

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Pretty neat photos! Glad J&L was able to help you out with the microscope.

It was interesting watching them under the microscope. They move aroud more than I expected.


I think I found a positive id on them from comparing picture on the reef2reef thread. Looks like Prorocentrum. Which I belive means UV won't be effective and I will be in for a long fight...

I would start with getting nitrates 5-10ppm and phosphates at 0.03-0.08ppm. Just maintain this and let’s hope they burn themselves out.

good that you got an ID on them and you're right, while I would never tell a hobbiest a UV sterilizer is a waste it certainly isn't going to be helpful for this substrate dwelling issue.
I like these numbers when times are good but its safer to just shoot for 10ppm NO3 and .10ppm PO4 when dinos are concerned. the idea is to promote the growth of competition (algae) and leave an environment unsuitable for the issue.
good luck!

5-10ppm NO3 and .10 PO4 is easier said than done so far. Right now my tank seems to be using a large amount of both and I'm having trouble getting it anywhere near those numbers so far.


I think that is expected at the start though. I have just been upping the dose until I see the numbers I want and they stick.

I have started to see a reduction in dinos on the sand bed. Especially in the mornings. So I'm hoping the dosing is doing something. The rocks are still as brown as can be though.

I've noticed that leaving the Dino's alone and not stirring the sand and blowing off the rocks seems to help more than stirring and blowing. The tank looks good after, but they always come back more afterwards.

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Tested my water last night. 10ppm nitrate and 161ppb/0.494ppm phosphate.


Rocks are still super brown, but I see white patches of sand!


Most corals are doing ok. My anemone isn't looking great as it roams around the tank though.

Very good thread, a lot of help here, this will help many refers to come to!
Not an easy thing but you will win .
I’m batting a similar war . I haven’t gone to the black out yet, but I have hit them With peroxide as well as filtering as much of it out of the tank with filter floss daily, using my turkey baster and a very soft artist brush.
Get as much out of the system because they release poisons into the water carbon is a must .I added filter pads that removes po4 and one for no3 that I change every week.
Also I added to the rain of fire is two bacteria strains one for new rank other for breaking down wast,and 3 turbo snails and 2 emerald crabs.
Wet protein skimming all the time . I should have taken pictures but I’m on my way to defeating this beast.
Hope this will help a little keep at it !
RAZOR RAMON