Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board - Troubles with Nikon D70s SLR

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I took some time and shot some more macros yesterday. I didn't do a DOF comparison cause....well...I wasn't really thinking about it. Anyways, here is the detail on how I shot and what I did with post editing software:

Camera: Nikon D70s
Lens: Nikon 105 f/2.8 Macro
Aperature setting: f/16 on all shot
Shutter setting: 1/8-1/25
Camera Mode setting: Aperature Priority
Exposure Metering: Nikon Matrix Meter
White Balance: Preset/Manual, WB metered on white PVC
coupling
Tripod: Yes, must due to low shutter speeds and
close focus
Distance of lens to subject: 2.5 inches
Image File: jpeg

Post Edit Software: Photoshop CS
Levels: Auto Levels
Sharpness: Unsharp Mask
Image Cropping: NO

The camera was mounted on a tripod.

Camera setting was on Aperature Priority mode set to f/16 for maximum DOF.

I took a piece of 2" PVC and positioned it as close to the front glass as possible. I wanted to use the stand as a stage to set my corals onto.

I set my White Balance mode on my camera to "Preset White Balance", then I filled the frame with a close up of the PVC pipe. This tells my camera to set all colors using the PVC white as a reference point.

I then took individual corals and placed them on top of the PVC coupling and positioned myself as close as I could using my 105mm macro lens. The lens allowed me to position my tripod 2.5 inches away from the front of the tank. The corals were only a few mm away from the glass inside the tank.

I had to use my self timer mode because there wasn't going to be enough lighting to prevent blurrness. Also, because I was focusing so close any minute movement will also blur the image.

The tank is a 45 gallon frag tank and the lighting is 2 175 watt 14,000K bulbs.
No supplemental Actinics were used because I did not have any. I wished that I had some because it may have enhanced some of the corals colors.

Anways, I hope that the above info helps.

Jason, disagreeing with each other is tiring and I do not want to pursue the debate any longer. I find that it really isn't helping anyone and the whole point of the thread is to provide tips and tricks to tank photography. Debating magnification technicality does not help in this regard. So I agree with you that we shall remain to disagree and I do not want to confuse people any more then we may have. The point of photography is to create an image that is eye appealing or an image that makes a person think and reflect. At the end of the day, how you created the image doesn't matter.

Cheers.
________
VN1500G

BTW keep it going i'm reading along and learning lots, i may take you up on your offer jason (just b/c i haven't seen your tank in such a long time lol) I'm going to look into taken my camera to nikon for a cleaning also to look at my auto-illumination light which will not fire (yes its on) I didn't realize they were local.

Kyle

Jason,

Good on you for doing those trial shots. For a little while there I was getting tired of banging my head against the wall.
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Ruckus

OK I hate to dredge up this debate again. But after continued research. This is what I have uncovered.
with increased magnification depth of field becomes narrower and narrower.
Meaning a typical photo the the subject in the image is much smaller than what it's actual size is. like a landscape photo. You could have a depth of field from 3m to infinity at f 22
Now take the images above at nearing 1:1 size ratio the max depth of field becomes very narrow. to with in 20cm to 25cm.
If we had the ability with this camera to increase the magnification to 2:1 or even 4:1 we would find the range of depth of field would become even narrower

Jason

Jason,

I'm sure that is the case as the closer you get the less amount of DOF due to the size of the image taking up the whole frame. Please read my previous post. DOF only exist if you can see the difference in distance when you are taking the photo. The debate that you did not agree with, was that the lens aperature setting DID NOT make a difference in the DOF. I am right in telling you that it does and YOUR photo trial proved the theory. So I hope that we can now come to a final conclusion that DOF is affected by the cameras/lens aperature setting. This you have proven yourself.
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GN125

Yes Aperature effects DOF but Max DOF is limited to magnification. Look at my last pick at f22 Dof is very shallow.
you can see out of focus in front and behind the field of focus

J

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason McK (Post 290685)

I have to disagree the lens elements in the marco lens completely change the rules of normal lenses. Depth of field is dependent on the positioning of the lens elements and not f-stop. stopping down to f22 from f2.8 will gain you millimetres of depth of field where as minor decreases of magnification will gain you centimetres.

Anyway. This is usually not a problem with Tank photography as you are never mm from you subject.

Depth of Field Information

J

From your qoute above, you stated that DOF is dependent on the position of the lens element and NOT f-stop.

What lens element are you talking about? The front lens element or the rear element that is closest to the film/sensor plane? In a camera lens, there are many elements that make up the construction of the lens. So to clarify your point, which lens element are you talking about that needs to be positioned so that you can control DOF. If a lens element is fixed to one postion in the lens, does that mean that the lens has only one distance setting for DOF?

Although, the DOF is limited in your photo trials, my point is that DOF can be controlled through aperature. I really don't know why you are adament that this is wrong. You've challenged what I posted and was proven incorrect. Please accept this and let's move on to helping people take photographs. 'Nuff said.

Cheers,
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