ummmm.

it costs me nothing a year , and ive also never had it in years...go figure i guess i didnt need it or my tank is doomed to have it soon?

so your saying mb7 is a guaranteed cure for cyano and that anyone who does it right will not have cyano? no one that uses it " correctly" will have cyano right?

how many system have you tried this on to verify it works all the time every time if applied right?

since its such a guarantee i guess i shouldnt be able to find any people who it didnt work for , or maybe all those people arnt doing it right and maybe brightwell dont know what they are talking about in the recommended doses?

i find that really, really hard to believe ,sorry but i do. even brightwell them selves dont say its a guarantee, why do you think that is?

i get that in your experience it works but to say guaranteed preventative is kind of pushing it a bit dont ya think to the point where the next person who reads this thinks ...hey its guaranteed to work lol

im very skeptical , i get how it HELPS keep cyano away but again thats no mystery , but its also not a guarantee.

how does it differ from any other bacteria in a bottle?

Hey, I'm just saying what has worked for me. May be other ways to beat it, for sure. But it grieves me a bit, when I see here so many people struggling with it, and just trying to help.

The reason I am so convinced is from my direct experience. When I first started using MB7, I did see cyano try to come back a couple times. But when I then adjusted my dosage, was always able to beat it back. After the MB7 bacteria was fully established, the cyano has never come back for me, even when I had other problems with P04 and N03 getting out of hand again.

I have also seen MB7 here used very incorrectly (won't name names, but you probably know who I am talking about). Like anything in reefing, you have to know what you are doing, and go slowly. And don't over think it.

I also did a lot of research on RC, where I first learned how to use it, and why it didn't work for some people. Unfortunately, all reefers are not always the most patient or the best at understanding and following instructions.

Also, as a reminder, MB7 is a preventative, not a cure. You first have to get rid of it with Chemiclean. The you start your MB7 regime.

its the way you say it , guaranteed....i take that as it has to work.


ok so why doesnt brightwell say its a guaranteed preventative? do you have inside info they do not? seems like if it was directed at cyano then cyano would be its main selling feature would it not? i think cyano is a serious enough a problem for just about any reefer that if it were guaranteed then it would be plastered all over the net......

from brightwell:


"The concentration of dissolved and particulate organic materials in any aquatic environment can have a significant impact on the overall appearance of, as well as the health of organisms residing within, that system. Relatively low-nutrient environments are characterized by high water clarity, lack of unpleasant odors, and absence of microalgae and cyanobacteria; this is collectively a result of the lack of nitrogen-, phosphorus-, and carbon-based waste available. Aquaria that are relatively rich in available nutrients have characteristics opposite to the afore mentioned, and are typically not desirable because of the resultant appearance of the system and the difficulty of maintaining healthy aquarium inhabitants.

Brightwell Aquatics MicrōBacter7 is a selective complex of extremely effective microbes and enzymes that rapidly reduces the concentrations of organic nitrogen, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, and organic carbon in all marine and freshwater ecosystems, leading to greatly improved water quality; better water quality typically leads to healthier aquarium inhabitants. MicrōBacter7 does not require refrigeration, however storage in a cool, shaded area will prolong the activity, and maximize the shelf-life, of the product."


never seen the word guaranteed in that paragraph but maybe i missed it lol all they say is kinda the obvious about bacteria and its needs lol


lots of good threads on mb7 , what it does and what it doesnt do. youll find lots of people ( experienced none the less) do not have the same results. surely these people cant all be doing it wrong, what did you do that was so different?


it in fact doesnt work all the time, id like to believe that all these people just are doing it wrong but all the chemist on RC do not seem to think it is necessary , or works all the time , anecdotally it works for some but not all so if i dont need to use it why would i pay for it? how do i know that just regualar carbon dosing , denitrators, gfo/gac, skimming , water changes , ats other bottled bacterias etc. are not equally as good, better , worse or even cheaper to run? how do i know if i need it or not?


i will say seems like a great product , i know people who use it without harm so i dont think adding it will cause any great harm but i also dont think its any better a preventative then the above mentioned , is it?

if so why?

"Brightwell Aquatics MicrōBacter7 is a selective complex of extremely effective microbes and enzymes that rapidly reduces the concentrations of organic nitrogen, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, and organic carbon in all marine and freshwater ecosystems, leading to greatly improved water quality; better water quality typically leads to healthier aquarium inhabitants."


this above can be pretty much said about most bacteria and the job they do , how do i know that prodibio , zeobak or organic carbon dosing doesnt do the same?

i trust brightwell , but do i really know whats being added?

tests on this product seemed to show the bacteria was alive in heavy numbers but didnt show what type, types or foods they consume.

bottled bacteria in general is very debated on whether or not its necessary or not necessary to add. we simply dont have the data , resources or time yet.

Well, you can be hung up on my use of the word guaranteed, if you like. I said that because I have used it in person, and have seen how it works. And all the cases I have read about where it didn't work, involved incorrect usage, or at least lacked clear evidence of correct usage. And yes, that included chemists. The good news, is that many others that did use it correctly were also successful with preventing cyano.

People are free to believe what they want and manage their reefs the way they want. That's the fun of this hobby. But as you know, there are many "experts" here on these forums, that love to quote and pass on 3rd hand information. Me,... I put a lot more stock into direct experience, and those that can show me what their tanks actually look like.

agreed , it goes to show that you cant always take someones personal experience as solid fact but only as their personal experience ;)

Can't argue with that...:smile:

Can you give an explanation or example of correct and incorrect usage?

I am new to this forum but have been a reefer for about 10years.

I also battled HA... long clumps on just about everything but the fish! I am very meticulous with my tank and take great pride in it. I got to the point that I ALMOST gave up... but in the end... I WON THE BATTLE!!!!

The process will be slow... took me 5 months to finally say that I am algae free... or at least 99%.

Your phosphates are low, but checking when you have HA will give you false hope because your HA is absorbing (and thriving) by consuming your phosphate.

I will give you what worked for me:

Regular water changes BUT NOT TOO FREQUENT. I was at the point of doing water changes every 2-3 days... but all those good 'extras' in the salt mix will actually feed the algae too. Weekly should be good.

Suck up as much HA with your tubing when going water changes. In between water changes regularly pull out HA. I had a bowl of cold tap water that I would put it into, dipping my fingers in it too before going back into the tank to pull out more. Once HA starts to die off, it will release more phosphates if you keep in in the tank... and that just keeps
the cycle going.


I used a toothbrush on tough-to-reach areas that were dying off... or areas where the HA was short and almost gone.
Make sure to keep your sump (and other areas you may have separate from your display) clean and not building up debris.
A long-spine urchin.

Regularly blasting the rocks

Strawberry hats... found them to be better than Mexican turbos

A phosban reactor with ROWAPHAS

A really good skimmer... and empty it often

Feed sparingly. I did not add any selcon/garlic etc to frozen food. I rinsed any frozen food in RO water

I did not feed any LPS or SPS (and they continued to thrive and grow). Enough from the water, frequent changes, fish waste etc.

No additives to water... ie amino acids

I do vodka dose

Coral Snow added twice a week when lights out

Below is my tank today.

Attachment 13250

Have patience and you will conquer :biggrin: