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-   -   Is this RODI setup correct? (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=80213)

sphelps 11-22-2011 03:50 PM

Yeap pretty sure bottom is backwards as Steve said. Also keep in mind you have no auto shut off so you'll have to manually turn off the SUPPLY water when not in use.

-=James=- 11-22-2011 06:10 PM

Ok I will try again. I was just going off what StirCrazy said but maybe I messed up his instructions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by StirCrazy (Post 652424)

take your red line you just removed from #6 and plug it into #1
This means the red inlet hose is going through 1?

http://www.members.shaw.ca/s.l.s/rosetup1.jpg


StirCrazy 11-22-2011 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -=James=- (Post 652791)
Ok I will try again. I was just going off what StirCrazy said but maybe I messed up his instructions.

remember I can read the sides from your picture.. so adjust 1 and 6 acordingly. which ever says in, make that your water from the tap to the unit. which ever says out make that to the inlet of your membrain (#7)

Steve

Buckeye Field Supply 11-22-2011 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StirCrazy (Post 652739)
double check on the bottom three filters that your red line is going to a port that says "in" if there is no "in" on either end then you have to open them and see what the filters are as mentioned.
Steve

Very good point! The top of the lids to the housings below the bracket will be labeled "in" or "out"

Russ

-=James=- 11-24-2011 05:24 AM

Sorry for the late response. I still cant figure it out for the life of me.

Lets make it easy. Please tell me which numbers should connect and ill try not to screw that up. I indicated red arrows of what it says on the unit.

Thanks again guys!


http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...11123-2208.jpghttp://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...11123-2209.jpg

Buckeye Field Supply 11-24-2011 06:51 AM

Assuming that your red arrows on the housing lids indicate which one says "in" and which one says "out":

First (left most) housing should contain a sediment filter
Middle housing should be another sediment or a carbon block
Third housing (right most) should be empty or have a carbon block

Tap water comes in to 2 and comes out 8.
Connect 8 to 3 on the RO membrane housing.
Connect 7 on the RO membrane housing to 4 on the DI housing
Rotate the DI housing so 9 is at "12 o'clock" position rather than "4 o'clock."
Water coming out of 9 will be your final DI water for use in your tank.
Remove the top, white "taste and odor filter" from your system. It does more harm than good in this position.
Connect 6 to the un-numbered port on the black-handled flow restrictor.
Connect 1 on the flow restrictor to a drain.

Russ

-=James=- 11-24-2011 07:17 AM

Here you go Russ. Thanks for all the help! He offered me to call him for a step by step guide.

Correct, the red arrows indicate IN and OUT
From left to right: Sediments 5 Micron, GAC, CCB 1 Micron

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...11124-0112.jpg

-=James=- 11-24-2011 07:57 AM

Success! Thanks so much Russ.

I am filling the 180 now :)

BTW anyone know where to get a cheap TDS meter? Home Depot doesnt have them.

lastlight 11-24-2011 08:18 AM

Got mine from BRS.

That's some real dedication btw... problem solving at 2am so you can start filling your tank. Respect!

Buckeye Field Supply 11-24-2011 08:58 AM

Yeow. Someone sold you a less than ideal set of prefiltes. Assuming you are on city water w/o chloramies, a good combo is a 1 micron sediment filter and a 0.5 micron carbon block. GAC prefilters really have no place in the high capacity systems we use in this hobby. Really no need for a third prefilter, but you could use a second sediment filter or a second carbon block if you'd like.


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