reply
 

Hey Tony, I'm trying to edit my picture post to add some progress pics, but I get the red X when adding the URL. Is there anyway to fix this?

Sure there isn't a typo in the URL, like an extra "/" after the "http://" or something? Maybe PM me the links and I'll see what I can see..

reply
 

I figured it out Tony. In Photobucket there is a "shared" URL and a "URL link". I used the wrong one. I'll update the pics soon.:redface:

reply
 

Ok, I've added some updated images below some of the "before" images from April. I've only included pic of the most noticably changed corals.

Here's a pic of my RO/DI rats nest with the Kent shutoff, flush kit, and pass-to-drain unit (to prevent TDS creep). I use a 20g can with a float valve as a reservoir like Tony but I'm wasting alot more water. There is another tee to a float valve in a 50g can for saltwater mixing.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...k/IMG_2156.jpg

reply
 

I'm debating using a resevior on my new sump too.

The problem I'm finding with the direct feed setup, is that the float valve is so sensitive that every few minutes it opens up to fill the sump. It probably only fills like 50 ml at a time, but it takes another minute for the line to build up enough pressure for the Kent valve to shutoff the water. So, although I believe that I'm conserving water, its not as effective as I'd like.

I wonder if there is anyway to rig the float valve to not be so sensitive, so that it takes 200-300ml to trigger instead of the 50ml I estimate?

I'm not sure I follow, how does using a reservoir mean wasted water (except for the evaporation from the reservoir, but really this is minimal compared to the tank..) ??

Danny, I really have to say this, but get a reservoir on there pronto!! Don't debate, just do it! :p Hooking the RO/DI directly to the float valve is going to lead to premature RO membrane failure. When I moved into my current house in 2004, I hooked my RO/DI directly to the sump like that. That constant on/off cycles are murder on the membranes. I went through 3, maybe even 4 membranes in the first year before I realized why they were failing. Since hooking up the reservoir (and filling the reservoir manually), I haven't had to replace a membrane yet (at least two years on this membrane).

Actually, there's something you can do besides a reservoir. You can hook your RO/DI up to a sprinkler timer and time it so that it only goes on for about an hour or two at night. That way, it will only fill during that period. Kind of not a perfect solution because once the sump is refilled it will still do that on/off/on/off thing but at least it's not doing it all day.

The reservoir idea is easier and cheaper :) a 5g bucket if nothing else, will work fine, or a rubbermaid, or whatever you can make work.

reply
 

Any idea how to hook up a sprinkler timer to 1/4" line? Or is there something available specifially for that size?

Just .. get. .. a reservoir already !!!! :p Do it do it do it do it do it!!!!!!

But for the sprinkler valve, I was assuming that you had an RO/DI hookup the same as a garden hose or washing machine. If that were the case then you could just get a sprinkler valve with the garden hose hookups, and you just hook it inline between the RO/DI feedline and the tap. If that's not how you have it, then you'd have to, I guess, get a sprinkler valve with PVC hookups, and then get an assortment of various PVC bits and step down the piping from whatever it is (probably 3/4" or 1") down to the 1/4". You'll have to get some of the pieces from Home Depot/Rona (the valve), and some of the pieces from Western Pool and Spa (because I don't think HD/Rona typically carry bushings down to 1/4" :( ). Bit of a PITA this way.

Do the reservoir -- really, don't wreck a membrane if you don't have to. At $100 a pop I can think of better ways to spend money. :neutral:

If you need a hand with it, let me know, maybe we can work on something together..