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-   -   Success with LED and SPS (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=92535)

Madreefer 12-14-2012 03:16 AM

Wow Hasan you sure turned in to an expert from a guy that was posting every low dollar light you could find on Ebay and stating "how frickin awesome" they are. When you finally decide on one of your awesome lights and actually have some experience running them than maybe i'll pay attention to what you read on the net. Until such time i'll just listen to those who actually have used LEDs.

ScubaSteve 12-14-2012 03:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrhasan (Post 773209)
You cannot make the same color pop with the same color supplement. The theory goes like this:

To pop something "black", you will need "white" background and vice-verse.

Let's look at the RGB spectrum:

Basic rule, you have to have the contrasting color to make coral color pop. If you look at the RGB intersections, the best pop for red will be when you put in cyan. SO you will have to mix the RGB strip accordingly to create cyan blend.

Errr... That's not necessarily true. When you see a red shirt, for example, you are seeing red because the shirt is reflecting primarily red wavelengths while absorbing most of the other wavelengths. So, if you were to shine a light on that shirt that was missing red in the spectrum, the shirt would basically look black/brown. No amount of cyan is gonna make that shirt look red. And this is where a lot of misconception comes into the whole LED schmozzle...

Corals have two different types of proteins that give rise to colors: chromophores and fluorescent proteins. Chromophores behave like the red shirt in the example above: they absorb certain wavelengths while reflecting others. You can accentuate these colours by hitting them with the colour that they are. Purple is a prime example of a colour coming from a chromophore. Often you see chromophores in growth tips of SPS there the tip is a different colour than the rest of the coral. Chromophores are Antioxidants and act like sunscreen for the relatively new flesh of the coral, which matures over time to contain more...

Fluorescent proteins. There are three main types of fluorescent protein: green (GFP), cyan (CFP) and red (rFP). These proteins behave different than the chromophores because rather than reflecting a particular wavelength, the emit a particular wavelength after being excited by a more energetic wavelength. So, for a red coral (whose colour comes from rFP and not from a chromophore), red light does dick all to enhance the red coloration. But, as you notice, when you hit that coral with a higher wavelength, like in the cyan region, the coral goes all psychedelic on you because the rFP is fluorescing (which is what gives corals that "pop"). This is why TV, RB and cyan bring back a lot of the "pop" that goes "missing" when people swap to LEDs.

Even within the GFP, CFP and rFP clades (ie. similar proteins), there are a number of proteins which all have different absorption and emission peaks. This means, for example, each rFP has a different peak excitation wavelength and different emission wavelength. Metal halides are a continuum of wavelengths, so we get that spread that covers all of the different excitation peaks and we see a balance of coral colors (though you may also notice a lot of people with halides still use T5 or LED lighting to supplement the MH and bring out other colors the MH miss).

LEDs, on the other hand, have more discrete emission peaks which, if you only use one or two types of LEDs, leaves big gaps in the combined spectrum. This in turn leads to certain colors, be it a chromophore or fluorescent protein, not being rendered. Yes, by moving towards a full spectrum you start to fill in those holes, but you still don't have the same spread that a MH does, so some corals look WOW! And some look BLAH!.

Then there is also perceived colour temperature. With just CW or NW, the tank has a yellow hew. By adding RB the tank looks more like the 14K halides we are used to but still has a bit of a sterile feel to it. By adding reds into the mix you start to add a bit of warmth into the colour (and really it doesn't take much red to do this). The addition of red doesn't actually positively effect the colour of many corals (rFP isnt excited by it and there are few orange to red chromophores). It's the mix of colours that effects more how your rocks and sand look to you, which actually plays a big part in how the tank looks to you. For example, if you used all TV and RB, everything would fluoresce like mad but to you the tank looks like blue soup because your rocks and sand look blue. But if we kept the same coloration in the coral but change the sand to white, the tank has a totally different feel to it (and would look awesome).

So, to really have a good full spectrum LED set up (or any lighting set up for that matter) you need to understand where the colour of your corals are originating from and pick your light source to accentuate the different colors of your corals. The colors of our corals originate from different processes, so we have to take this into account with the design. And there are also the colors that we need to see to balance everything out.

This isn't even getting into the whole photosynthesis argument. I'm not going to touch that one but I'll just leave it with: find a colour mix that works for you and get lots of LEDs:razz:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madreefer (Post 773196)
I've supplemented my AI Sols with 2 Ecoxotic RGB modules. When the reds are turned on it does not pop the reds at all. I find the rdes pop more when the blue is turned up more. I'm waiting for the new controllors for the said supplemental lights and will be adding 2 more for more options to play with.

See above.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daplatapus (Post 773221)
I think some of the problem when talking UV is there really is no standard. What's being used in LED's when they say UV isn't really UV, it's true violet or some form thereof. I've read of TV LED's ranging from 395nm to 410, 410-420, 420-whatever. But because these LED's are putting out only those wavelengths you have to have a mix of them all to really call it a FULL spectrum build. That's pricey. It's why you're not seeing it being done in commercially available products. Heck, I still haven't seen DIY builds doing all the spectrum, there's still arguments about which ones are even being used.
But with MH, just turn it on and you at least have some amounts of everything.
Even if a specific coral uses only .5% of a certain spectrum in the wild, that .5% is still going to affect it's coloration and growth to some extent if it's not provided. It may still be able to live and grow, but not as well. Until someone comes up with an LED or fixture that incorporates everything that a coral needs for a certain look an individual wants, you won't get the "pop", florescence etc. you're looking for. And it's going to take someone with the time, money and perseverance to try and try and try again to figure it out. That's how anything progresses.

You don't need to have an LED for every chunk of the spectrum to do a proper full spectrum (in fact look at the spectrum of some halides and you'll see that they can totally drop out at some wavelengths and are super heavy in other areas). And because LEDs do have a distribution in wavelengths (some tighter than others), some of the tails over lap and add up. Also, you don't really need to cover all the spectrum in the UV/violet/blue range since much of these wavelength contribute to fluorescing colors while being mostly invisible to our eyes. So long as you have some wavelengths shorter than the RB, you're pretty covered as the photons less than 450 nm are energetic enough to make most colors fluoresce.

So, you can build a fairly nice, continuous spectrum with a limited number of LEDs. We certainly need more than the RB/white mixes of old but we don't need to go overboard either.

mrhasan 12-14-2012 03:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madreefer (Post 773259)
Wow Hasan you sure turned in to an expert from a guy that was posting every low dollar light you could find on Ebay and stating "how frickin awesome" they are. When you finally decide on one of your awesome lights and actually have some experience running them than maybe i'll pay attention to what you read on the net. Until such time i'll just listen to those who actually have used LEDs.

Haha. Can't say anything against that :P

I did some research on full spectrum and just wants to make sure that I don't do anything wrong. Possibly I will start a build process once I accumulate everything :D

mrhasan 12-14-2012 03:35 AM

Awesome infos :D Thank you so much :D Learnt lots of new stuffs :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScubaSteve (Post 773260)
Errr... That's not necessarily true. When you see a red shirt, for example, you are seeing red because the shirt is reflecting primarily red wavelengths while absorbing most of the other wavelengths. So, if you were to shine a light on that shirt that was missing red in the spectrum, the shirt would basically look black/brown. No amount of cyan is gonna make that shirt look red. And this is where a lot of misconception comes into the whole LED schmozzle...

Corals have two different types of proteins that give rise to colors: chromophores and fluorescent proteins. Chromophores behave like the red shirt in the example above: they absorb certain wavelengths while reflecting others. You can accentuate these colours by hitting them with the colour that they are. Purple is a prime example of a colour coming from a chromophore. Often you see chromophores in growth tips of SPS there the tip is a different colour than the rest of the coral. Chromophores are Antioxidants and act like sunscreen for the relatively new flesh of the coral, which matures over time to contain more...

Fluorescent proteins. There are three main types of fluorescent protein: green (GFP), cyan (CFP) and red (rFP). These proteins behave different than the chromophores because rather than reflecting a particular wavelength, the emit a particular wavelength after being excited by a more energetic wavelength. So, for a red coral (whose colour comes from rFP and not from a chromophore), red light does dick all to enhance the red coloration. But, as you notice, when you hit that coral with a higher wavelength, like in the cyan region, the coral goes all psychedelic on you because the rFP is fluorescing (which is what gives corals that "pop"). This is why TV, RB and cyan bring back a lot of the "pop" that goes "missing" when people swap to LEDs.

Even within the GFP, CFP and rFP clades (ie. similar proteins), there are a number of proteins which all have different absorption and emission peaks. This means, for example, each rFP has a different peak excitation wavelength and different emission wavelength. Metal halides are a continuum of wavelengths, so we get that spread that covers all of the different excitation peaks and we see a balance of coral colors (though you may also notice a lot of people with halides still use T5 or LED lighting to supplement the MH and bring out other colors the MH miss).

LEDs, on the other hand, have more discrete emission peaks which, if you only use one or two types of LEDs, leaves big gaps in the combined spectrum. This in turn leads to certain colors, be it a chromophore or fluorescent protein, not being rendered. Yes, by moving towards a full spectrum you start to fill in those holes, but you still don't have the same spread that a MH does, so some corals look WOW! And some look BLAH!.

Then there is also perceived colour temperature. With just CW or NW, the tank has a yellow hew. By adding RB the tank looks more like the 14K halides we are used to but still has a bit of a sterile feel to it. By adding reds into the mix you start to add a bit of warmth into the colour (and really it doesn't take much red to do this). The addition of red doesn't actually positively effect the colour of many corals (rFP isnt excited by it and there are few orange to red chromophores). It's the mix of colours that effects more how your rocks and sand look to you, which actually plays a big part in how the tank looks to you. For example, if you used all TV and RB, everything would fluoresce like mad but to you the tank looks like blue soup because your rocks and sand look blue. But if we kept the same coloration in the coral but change the sand to white, the tank has a totally different feel to it (and would look awesome).

So, to really have a good full spectrum LED set up (or any lighting set up for that matter) you need to understand where the colour of your corals are originating from and pick your light source to accentuate the different colors of your corals. The colors of our corals originate from different processes, so we have to take this into account with the design. And there are also the colors that we need to see to balance everything out.

This isn't even getting into the whole photosynthesis argument. I'm not going to touch that one but I'll just leave it with: find a colour mix that works for you and get lots of LEDs:razz:



See above.



You don't need to have an LED for every chunk of the spectrum to do a proper full spectrum (in fact look at the spectrum of some halides and you'll see that they can totally drop out at some wavelengths and are super heavy in other areas). And because LEDs do have a distribution in wavelengths (some tighter than others), some of the tails over lap and add up. Also, you don't really need to cover all the spectrum in the UV/violet/blue range since much of these wavelength contribute to fluorescing colors while being mostly invisible to our eyes. So long as you have some wavelengths shorter than the RB, you're pretty covered as the photons less than 450 nm are energetic enough to make most colors fluoresce.

So, you can build a fairly nice, continuous spectrum with a limited number of LEDs. We certainly need more than the RB/white mixes of old but we don't need to go overboard either.


daplatapus 12-14-2012 03:40 AM

Nice info, scubasteve. Not sure I understood all of it yet, lol, but certainly made some good points and provided food for thought.

Madreefer 12-14-2012 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daplatapus (Post 773278)
Nice info, scubasteve. Not sure I understood all of it yet, lol, but certainly made some good points and provided food for thought.

Yea thanks Scubasteve

ScubaSteve 12-14-2012 03:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daplatapus (Post 773278)
Nice info, scubasteve. Not sure I understood all of it yet, lol, but certainly made some good points and provided food for thought.

:razz: I tried to make it as non-sciency as I could so I might have either still made it too techy or missed out some important concepts. So, if you need a clarification on anything, ask away.

kien 12-14-2012 04:07 AM

The question of UV is an interesting one. I know that for DE Halide bulbs you HAVE to use them with UV shielded glass. Well, at least I have never come across a DE halide bulb that did not require a UV shield. Also, the outer glass envelope of the mogul halide lamps are UV shielded.

mike31154 12-14-2012 05:02 AM

I did a little more digging re the UV issue & found this article. They've carried out some measurements on various bulb types, technologies, their UV output & how much UV-A in particular actually makes it through some of the so called glass shields that envelop lamps. UV-B & -C are downright nasty & can really hurt you as well as most any living thing.

http://www.aquarium-design.com/reef/uvlighting.html

Madreefer 12-14-2012 05:46 AM

So next question. Are the lenses on LEDs equipped with "uv LEDs" have the proper lenses? Same question goes out to the DIY guys. Local guy here in town decided to take the glass out of a fixture to try to get a little more use out of the MH bulbs. Bad idea. All corals fried. So with uv LEDs and not having the proper glass/lens will it be the same result? I would think so

ScubaSteve 12-14-2012 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madreefer (Post 773316)
So next question. Are the lenses on LEDs equipped with "uv LEDs" have the proper lenses? Same question goes out to the DIY guys. Local guy here in town decided to take the glass out of a fixture to try to get a little more use out of the MH bulbs. Bad idea. All corals fried. So with uv LEDs and not having the proper glass/lens will it be the same result? I would think so

In LED fixtures, "UV LEDs" aren't actually UV, and if they are , they're just in the UV zone. I am using UV LEDs in my PhD work, so I can tell you with confidence that a "UV LED" and a real UV LED are two VERY different beasts. Most of the LEDs used in fixtures aren't at a wavelength to be considered harmful. Also, an unshielded halide bulb puts out MUCH more UV than a few little LEDs. But with enough low power true UV LEDs,you can cause yourself some trouble.

But to answer your question, there is no point in putting a shielding lens on a true UV LED if you are trying to use it as such. LEDs put out fairly narrow spectra, so blocking the UV with a lens really is just blocking all the light.

What we are actually wanting out of all of this is the deep violet which gives a blacklight effect. Going deeper into the UV wavelength actually does not yield more fluorescence, so there really is no point.

Madreefer 12-14-2012 06:54 AM

Well thanks. Very informative. What are you running for lights on your tank? Sorry too lazy to search your posts. And if you dont mind, what are are your percentages of intensity?

ScubaSteve 12-14-2012 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madreefer (Post 773321)
Well thanks. Very informative. What are you running for lights on your tank? Sorry too lazy to search your posts. And if you dont mind, what are are your percentages of intensity?

I am still running MH on my main tank (250W MH + 4xT5, 100% intensity :razz:) but I am currently wrapping up an LED conversion for my biocube 14 (Full spectrum, 24 LEDs, Cree XT-E's) as an experiment. I'm going to play with the LEDs in the little tank until I figure out what works best and what I like. Once I've got the full spectrum thing figured out I'll probably build an LED fixture for my main tank. I do love my MH though.

At work I am currently building a UV LED reactor as a side project (using the first TRUE high power UV LEDs in the world... sounds kinda weird when I say it out loud, but it's true:redface:). For my main research, I use T5s and MHs as light sources to split water into hydrogen and oxygen using only light and semiconductor nanoparticles... soooooo, I kinda spend a lot of time talking about light, UV, LEDs/semiconductor, MH and T5s everyday :razz: Kinda nice to be able to talk about it in a non-work context.:biggrin:

lockrookie 12-14-2012 09:24 AM

My concern is I don't get the color ratio right for my tank or not enough intensity that I will kill off my corals or royally fubar my tank. I love how Greg's build turned out for his 8 footer but I cannot afford modular LEDs regretfully


Sent from my porcelain aquarium

daplatapus 12-14-2012 02:24 PM

I have to admit, while I do think my build is a hair on the blue side, I love the colour it puts out with the NW, RB, TV and OCW. That's 6 colours. I will definitely be taking out a couple of the RB's and perhaps add more white in another spectrum than the NW. But having them all on differing channels has allowed me to see what effect they all have at least to my eye. I do have to raise it and see if maybe I can turn up the whites a bit without cooking anything.

The Guy 12-14-2012 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aquattro (Post 773020)
I posted a few pics of my SPS in this thread

http://96.31.76.198/vbulletin/showth...005#post773005

While I lost a little "pop" in my colors, on a very few pieces, overall I'd say LEDs can successfully grow SPS. My growth has not slowed, polyps are the same, colors are mostly the same. This is with 6 x AI Sol blues. Either your light doesn't have enough power/intensity, or the water quality issues you mentioned are affecting the corals.

GOOD LEDs are perfectly good for growing SPS :)

+1 to the AI sols, I have 2 modules on my 90 gallon and all my corals have never looked better, running them at 60% on all 3 colors white, blue & royal blue.

ScubaSteve 12-14-2012 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lockrookie (Post 773330)
My concern is I don't get the color ratio right for my tank or not enough intensity that I will kill off my corals or royally fubar my tank. I love how Greg's build turned out for his 8 footer but I cannot afford modular LEDs regretfully


Sent from my porcelain aquarium

I wouldn't be too concerned with that. The more likely scenario would be accidentally starting the LEDs off at too high of an intensity and frying them (provided you have enough LEDs to start with). The colour mix is something that you can play with over time. If you drill and tap your heatsink you can easily swap LEDs around at your pleasure. The modular LEDs are really nice, but not necessary. And as long as you have enough of the base colours (RB/NW) which can drive photosynthesis, you're good.

kien 12-14-2012 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike31154 (Post 773309)
I did a little more digging re the UV issue & found this article. They've carried out some measurements on various bulb types, technologies, their UV output & how much UV-A in particular actually makes it through some of the so called glass shields that envelop lamps. UV-B & -C are downright nasty & can really hurt you as well as most any living thing.

http://www.aquarium-design.com/reef/uvlighting.html

That's an interesting article on UV! So in other words. 1. the uv shields on halide bulbs only block out some UV and by some I mean hardly any. 2. UV is harmful to corals.

Dearth 12-14-2012 07:17 PM

I am no expert and have only ever had LED lights I took this picture today of my tank i have had this setup for 5 months and the lights are only at 60% intensity so far I started at 20% and gone up from there. This was a kit from RapidLed and a friend built for me there are 6 blue, 4 white, 1 red and one moonlight.

Sorry my IPhone 4 doesn't do justice but with the exception of one coral all my coral are thriving under this set up with full bloom and great colour. Almost all came from a MH tank and within days were doing great and are all growing at a fast rate. I wouldn't go with any other lighting setup because I am very impressed with how well the coral are thriving under the LED lighting.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps5ba1716f.jpg

Dez 12-14-2012 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kien (Post 773088)
ah, I guess I missed his change over from the eBay LEDs he was running. Still, his tank has had LEDs over it for a while now.

I am running 3 Sols with some DIYs. The Ebay fixtures were too loud for my liking even though my corals still grew. I've been on LEDs now for a year and 8 months and corals are still growing. Over the last year I've removed at least 15 colonies of sps (most had to be broken in order to fit in a 5 gal pail). So in a nutshell, yes, LEDs can grow sps just fine and the colours are still beautiful.

kien 12-14-2012 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dez (Post 773403)
So in a nutshell, yes, LEDs can grow sps just fine and the colours are still beautiful.

There you have it. No further discussion required. Mods, please close thread. :biggrin:

ocean diver 12-14-2012 08:33 PM

Dez; what are you running beside the SOL's as far as the DIY you speech of?

Dez 12-14-2012 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ocean diver (Post 773410)
Dez; what are you running beside the SOL's as far as the DIY you speech of?

I'm running 24 RB 3 watt crees, and 24 CW 3 watt crees from rapidled.com.

I went from over 1100 watts of halides/T5s to under 400 watts of LEDs. So overall I'm quite happy.

But then again, I'm not that picky. As long as corals are growing and healthy, I'm happy. My tank is by no means drab in terms of colour.

lastlight 12-14-2012 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dez (Post 773403)
So in a nutshell, yes, LEDs can grow sps just fine and the colours are still beautiful.

Is still beautiful the same as equally beautiful in your experience?

Douglas 12-14-2012 08:49 PM

Thank you everyone for the opinions and advice. I'm going to stick with the LED's for now.

Dez 12-14-2012 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight (Post 773414)
Is still beautiful the same as equally beautiful in your experience?

Different beautiful :). Mind you, I've tested my tank parameters once in the last year and a half. Calcium was at 280. My corals are still colourful and still growing. I have no idea what my phosphate or nitrates are at. I still have decent polyp extension, and decent colours. I really don't maintain my tank other than glass and water changes. When I did the change oner from MHs to LEDs, it was definitely different, but now I definitely like them. Like Brad says, the pros far outweigh the cons. I used to evaporate 5 gals a day. I have venting to the outside to take care of it, but all that is turned off now. I don't remember the last time I looked at the temperature of the tank cause that's not even a concern anymore. With halides, I used to look at the highs and lows cause of the temp. fluctuations. And not worrying about bulb changes? Who can argue that?

Dez 12-14-2012 10:51 PM

All these pictures were taken minutes ago with my iPhone 4 to give you an idea of colours (sorry not the greatest pics, just quick). All these colours are pretty accurate to life.

Got this as a 1" frag from Bignose. I mounted it on a golf tee and the golf tee is still in there somewhere. Half it's life has been under LEDs 14" below the water surface near the edge of the tank.
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1355528402

The orange cap is all LED growth from frag, the green one in center never changed from MH to LED.
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1355528374

This purple rimmed one on the right was never this purple under MH.
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1355528371

This green one was a 1/2" frag from Lobsterboy, it sat on the sandbed when I had halides, then went to LEDs and it took off. The cap is all LED growth.
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1355528356

Got this coral shortly before the switch to LED. It has maintained it's fluorescing brightness.
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1355528355

This isn't sps but it grew from a 1" frag. That alien eye whatever it is. I think it's a chalice? Don't know names of corals sorry. All LED and it's grown up the side of the glass.
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1355528331

This was a 1" frag from Snappy. Now it's slightly smaller than a volleyball. Half it's life under LED still as bright and growing like crazy.
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1355528332

This clam always has a white growth edge. Grows very well under LEDs.
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1355528314

This coral was from Snappy. Super grape mili. It sat for about a year under halides without much growth, it has done most of it's growing under LEDs.
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1355528288

This pink pocci has remained bright pink in my tank under LEDs. Also one thing to note is that when I had halides, I used to dose a lot of zeo stuff to tweak colours. I haven't dosed any of that stuff in 2 years.
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1355528286

Douglas 12-14-2012 11:03 PM

Now that's the stuff! Dez, you have made me a believer!

Madreefer 12-15-2012 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kien (Post 773409)
There you have it. No further discussion required. Mods, please close thread. :biggrin:

Hasn't been a more informative thread than this one in a long time. But yea good idea. But don't shut the Random Thought Thread down. It's really helpful to the hobby.

mrhasan 12-15-2012 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madreefer (Post 773477)
Hasn't been a more informative thread than this one in a long time. But yea good idea. But don't shut the Random Thought Thread down. It's really helpful to the hobby.

Yah learnt a lot. Hats off to ScubaSteve :D

Madreefer 12-15-2012 12:28 AM

True enough. Thanks again Scubasteve. But I'm being a smartass. I should start using smileys but too lazy. Would take the ignorance out of my texts. They're all taken the wrong way.

Aquattro 12-15-2012 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madreefer (Post 773477)
But don't shut the Random Thought Thread down. It's really helpful to the hobby.

We would never consider it, almost everyone loves that thread!

Aquattro 12-15-2012 01:37 AM

P.S. :razz:

can't forget the smiley!

mrhasan 12-15-2012 01:52 AM

I think we should also thank the creator of this thread (sorry don't know the technical term :P). Without his initiative, this thread wouldn't even be in existence! Hats off to Douglas! :D

asylumdown 12-15-2012 03:49 AM

My experience with LEDs:

+1 on LEDs being perfectly adequate for SPS. I just wish I could figure out how Dez manages to get his iPhone to take such good pictures of his, as my iPhone has a grand mal seizure every time it looks at my tank. The sensor practically explodes when it looks at the LEDs of my radions.

If I can sort that out, I'll have a whole bucket of photos for you (photo-bucket, get it? ;))

Dez 12-15-2012 04:31 AM

I've been an iPhonetogropher ever since the original iPhone came out ;). Experience my friend, experience...

lockrookie 12-15-2012 05:29 AM

I just can't pull the trigger on LEDs I think I'm going to try one more year of mh power consumption with a bigger light fixture/ more wattage on 180 but build a smaller fixture for my 50... Baby steps and see how I like it before I attempt the bigger fixture.


Sent from my porcelain aquarium

chatyak 12-18-2012 06:28 AM

http://cdn-3-service.phanfare.com/im...ab6ad475f6e5_1



I know this one uses orpheks. Massive info on that build and the lights colors vs other leds etc..

ScubaSteve 12-18-2012 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chatyak (Post 774545)
I know this one uses orpheks. Massive info on that build and the lights colors vs other leds etc..

Is that Mr. Wilson's tank?

chatyak 12-18-2012 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScubaSteve (Post 774546)
Is that Mr. Wilson's tank?

Peters tank. Mr wilson is the hired keeper from what I know.


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