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ah rubbermaid tubs... what would we do without them?!?!?!? :lol: :mrgreen:
i dont see any problem with your set up, but... watch your float valve, if the area around the valve has low/stagnant water flow, in the past i have found you will see kalk precipatate begin to form around the valve, which may prevent it from working properly... a fix i use, is to put a small powerhead, (like the little free ones from the IO salt buckets) directly underneath the valve, this will allow the water kalk water to mix with the sump water as it is dripped in and will the valve from getting clogged by the kalk precipitation. before adding the little powerhead, i would just run my fingers over the valve every week or so to dislodge any precipitation that had formed on it. HTH. |
Hi Walter,
I went out and bought the same container yesterday but neglected to by a 3/8 JG valve. Do you know if this would be readily available elsewhere as we do not have a Home Depot near Whistler. Also, it appears like that is the stock valve from the container, was the JG valve an add on that had to be siliconed or pressed or something? I am relatively new at this but need the simplicity of your idea. Can you explain how everything goes together for me :rolleyes: ? Thanks, I would appreciate it! Rob |
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Walter |
Thanks Walter!
So just to clarify the JG valve that you purchased is actually a slip on piece of plastic that reduces to the point where you added the hose which goes to the tank, is that right? The main valve and control is the stock valve that came with the container. Best, Rob |
Whoops, just re-read your post, let me see if I got this right now:
The JG Valve is the complete unit which screws into the cap for the cannister. The valve includes the knob to control water flow, the reducer and the tube that goes down to the tank? |
Here is a picture of something close.
http://www.johnguest.com/part_spec.asp?s=PPSV01_D1 It was threaded on one side and quick connect on the other. I threaded right into the valve that came with the container. There was no threads on the existing valve, but the new valve will thread in tight. Walter |
I have a 5 gal kalk set up I can let go for the cost of the parts if anyone local is looking for one. don't use it sence I built my Kalk reactor.
Steve |
Gotcha thanks!
Steve, I'll see about that, right now my wife is going crazy with me and my top off drip situation. I purchased a used Nurce a while back that I broke within the first day, and normally just pour a gallon of RO water per day into the tank. I have a McGyver set-up using a system similar to Walter's but nowhere near as clean looking or simple. :rolleyes: rob |
that JG valve that you speak of..how did you even get it to fit into the 3/4 thread cap, that came with the container. or did you just get a 3/8 knob to fit into the stock valve and just glued that together..because i was jsut at HD and found many valves bout none of which had a 3/4 thread to fit into the cap of the container
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I going to modify mine. I'll send you pics tomorrow and give you part pictures before I put it all together.
Walter |
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