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Buccaneer 07-07-2003 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jgoldsney
I am building a new house with a large bonus room that will house my new tank set up (225gal) :biggrin:

Joel

I would get my builder to double check on what type of load the floor will take and if extra joists/beams will be required to support the weight ( engineer certificate is what I would be looking for ) ... approx 10LB/Gal is what you are looking at.

Cheers

jgoldsney 07-07-2003 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rasta
Quote:

Originally Posted by jgoldsney
I am building a new house with a large bonus room that will house my new tank set up (225gal) :biggrin:

Joel

I would get my builder to double check on what type of load the floor will take and if extra joists/beams will be required to support the weight

Well I don't have an engineers certificate but where the load is resting is almost directly on a large beam which rests directly on top of a 2X6 load bearing wall. As well there were a few extra TGI floor joists so I had the framer throw them in so where my tank is sitting the joists are about 10" on center.

This should have no problem supporting the weight.

Joel

Buccaneer 07-07-2003 09:06 PM

Just making sure you have considered the weight of your tank ( 230G = approx 2300 LBS :eek: )

Cheers

kari 07-08-2003 01:42 AM

Joel

I find the wood-I's tend to have more deflection than the old style wood framing. Floors tend to sag a bit over time aswell. I'd wonder how level the tanks would sit once filled and a few months have gone bye. Is it too late to consider changing plans on tank location?
Also ambient temp is another consideration unless you have A/C or a chiller for the warmer weather. My tank is in my basement with a chiller.

You probably already considered all this but I just had to open my big mouth again. Good thinking by adding the extra joists.

Good luck with the new house :biggrin:

Kari

StirCrazy 07-08-2003 01:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kari

I find the wood-I's tend to have more deflection than the old style wood framing.

Kari

If they do they were not used corectly.. the rigidity and load handling of these is more than a 2X10 and can maintain this over a longer span.

The problem is when they first were being used the builders tended to see how long of a span they could get away with.

Steve

Canadian Man 07-08-2003 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StirCrazy
Quote:

Originally Posted by kari

I find the wood-I's tend to have more deflection than the old style wood framing.

Kari

If they do they were not used corectly.. the rigidity and load handling of these is more than a 2X10 and can maintain this over a longer span.

The problem is when they first were being used the builders tended to see how long of a span they could get away with.

Steve

I agree with Kari. My new house floor is very flexy and this is not even at their max span length. when the dogs walk by you the floor flexes. This is probably the way it's supposed to be but they do definatley flex.

Just for kick's every new house I have been in latley I have checked this out and they all seem to be the same with regards to the amount of flexyness.

Babble, babble, babble......blah, blah, blah.
I'll shut up now.

cheers

StirCrazy 07-08-2003 05:54 AM

weird, I have noticed the oposite.. oh well

Steve

Delphinus 07-08-2003 08:06 PM

I don't think an I-beam has more "rigidity" per se than a equivalent sized rectangular solid beam.. My understanding (which is very limited) is that an I-beam has similar load capacities (depending on the direction of force, which is either vertical or lateral) than the equivalent solid shape, but requires far less material. I.e., it's a more efficient structure in terms of function per unit mass, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's more rigid or has more load capacity overall. Plus, an I-beam is made out of "engineered lumber" whereas a 2x10 is just a piece of wood. You can make an I-beam based on byproducts of other products, but you need a tree for a 2x10, sort of thing.

(Maybe Carpentersreef, if he's out there, can elaborate.. Mitch??)

Aquattro 07-08-2003 08:15 PM

I found this.....

TGI joists are made with wood on the top and bottom but have a composite material between the wood that allows them to be manufactured perfectly straight. Their design prevents warping, providing a consistently flat surface to which sub-floors and finished flooring are attached. When the floor joists are perfectly flat, and there are no gaps between the joists and the sub-flooring, the finished floors are sturdy and have no creaks.

kari 07-09-2003 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Delphinus
I don't think an I-beam has more "rigidity" per se than a equivalent sized rectangular solid beam.. My understanding (which is very limited) is that an I-beam has similar load capacities (depending on the direction of force, which is either vertical or lateral) than the equivalent solid shape, but requires far less material. I.e., it's a more efficient structure in terms of function per unit mass, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's more rigid or has more load capacity overall. Plus, an I-beam is made out of "engineered lumber" whereas a 2x10 is just a piece of wood. You can make an I-beam based on byproducts of other products, but you need a tree for a 2x10, sort of thing.

(Maybe Carpentersreef, if he's out there, can elaborate.. Mitch??)

As far(or short) as I have learned, Tony you are pretty much right on the money. The load carrying capacity ( or ressistance to deflection) of the member has a lot to due with the cross sectional shape. The taller the shape is the more strength it has against this type of load in this manner. The reason it's shaped like it is, is like you said, to save material cost. The web part doesn't do much other than hold the top and bottom flange together. In this case the top flange is under compression and the bottom flange is under tension. And blah blah.

In short form;

-in the olden days we used say 2x8s. Since they are a tree, lets apply a factor of safety of 2.5 when designing.

-wood-I's are a little more predictable. Using typical living space loading values and predictability we can save some money and use a safety factor of say 1.5. Floor deflection doesn't mean structural failure but mearly a little discomfort to an allowable level.

I do though agree that when these wood-I's were interduced they were spanned way too long. Presently, like Jon stated, I can feel the beasts walking around in my house and the when the spin cycle starts I don't have to add coins to my vibro-sonic mattress. Saves $ and backache.

Kari


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