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Floor support??
Quote:
Steve |
Floor support??
[quote]Originally posted by StirCrazy:
Quote:
Actually, it is farther away from the second wall than I first thought. I still think it'll be fine! |
Floor support??
HI!
im pretty sure that engineer was looking at if from a saftey factor point of view.but i have seen floors and ceilings sag from the weight of water beds and the ocassional bathtub(very rare,ussally there was a deeper problem). just the same i asked a carpenter/framer/general designer, friend of mine and he's telling me that if its next to a load bareing wall perpendicular to the floor joist with the quite common 16in center ,and 2x6 joist.then your golden,if the tank is 6-8 feet long your laughin even harder.but without any hesitation a piece of 3/4 in ply wood under the stand would be benefical in helping to ditribute the weight. you may still get the tank listing forward but the old rule of thumb is that if it dosent bend it well break applies.you can still expect to get some flex out of the wood. he also figured that you may here the floor creaking for the first while this may have to do with changes in humidity,temp and so on other than that have at it! as others have said before me though, i accept no responsability for personal injury or property damage. :eek: |
Floor support??
Ya, I think I'll be fine. I measured the thickness of the floor and it is 10 inches including the flooring and ceiling below. This means 2 X 8s to me. All the joists I can see in utility rooms, etc, are 16" centers.
Hopefully it doesn't list right over on my head. If it goes through the floor, it's my tenant's car that gets it! I'm insured :D |
Floor support??
Ok, so I swung the hammer today and removed the stucco. The joists are old style 2x10 (really 2 x 10 inches). I'm going to add a second 2x10 along side the existing ones. Only problem is wiring runs perpendicular to the joists.
Anyone have suggestions on the "best" way to get around that? Cutting the wires isn't an option. :D |
Floor support??
Do this, then nail them togeather..
http://members.shaw.ca/stircrazy/studaddition.jpg the only other way is to cut the wires.. Steve |
Floor support??
About the wiring... TOLD YA SO!! [img]tongue.gif[/img] :D
JK! I think that notching the joists might be a good plan, if the wiring is in the middle of the span, and the tank is sitting at one end of the span. |
Floor support??
Steve,
I'm an architect so I know a little bit about structures. Cutting the such a deep notch will weaken the joist greatly...if you notch a 2x10 halfway through, you're essentially left with a 2x5. Every member will undergo two stresses. A bending moment stress (greatest in the middle of the span), and a shear stress (greatest at the ends, close to a support). In your configuration, the doubling up of the joist would strengthen the ability to resist shear by about 100%, but would only strengthen the moment by 50%, which of course is better than nothing. That's why plumbers and electricians are suppose to drill holes down the middle of joists. The top section can still resist compression, and the bottom of the joist can resist tension. If you want to get the most out of doubling up, is to remove the wire, drill a new hole, than reinstall. People often double up joists to reduce deflection, but really you should also double up the structural stud walls so that the loads are tranferred down to the foundation. Regards, Terrance |
Floor support??
ya, I know all that but I was told removing the wire and running new wires was not a option in this case, so this was the only way that would work.
Steve |
Floor support??
Steve,
I don't quite understand...is this not your own house? Why wouldn't you be able to loose power on that line for a day while you do this? Terrance |
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